 | Home > Off Topic > 7n concrete Block is there an alternative? |
 
|
|
|
| stew 46 Member Since: 26 Jan 2012 Location: Wadebridge ,cornwall . Posts: 561   
|
Work is the work shop made of ?
Stew |
||
23rd Sep 2020 12:40pm |
|
| Ads90 Member Since: 16 Jun 2008 Location: Cots-on-the-Wolds Posts: 812  
|
I understand your concern re. appearance, but in my experience the concrete will weather down & look fairly natural grey under a weathered timber (utility) building... I'm assuming it is just a single block high?
If you render it, it will draw your eye even more. Plenty of bricks are strong enough, but drilling fixings for the sole plate is trickier, and individual bricks are displaced from their mortar easier. I've probably got pics of larch-clad buildings on a course of concrete blocks if you want to see an example? For a higher status building (like a dwelling), a brick plinth would usually cover the blockwork inner. |
||
|
23rd Sep 2020 12:40pm |
|
| GREENI Member Since: 22 Aug 2010 Location: staffs Posts: 10383
|
...and who is the supplier, please? I'm looking for a workshop (if it's wooden).
|
||
|
23rd Sep 2020 12:42pm |
|
| ibexman Member Since: 13 Dec 2008 Location: Essex Posts: 2945
|
You could shutter and pour concrete. To the same dimensions
|
||
|
23rd Sep 2020 12:43pm |
|
| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3757
|
Hello
Sorry I did mean to say its a wooden building that will sit on top and yes just one course high. The way it will be fitting it will be on show at the front of the building and one side.. I understand the issues with normal bricks... hence why this company want to use these I guess. If you can attach a picture that would be good, I will have a quick look online. Thanks |
||
|
23rd Sep 2020 12:44pm |
|
| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3757
|
I Guess it will look like this only 1 course high
Just not 'as' pretty as normal bricks... from the boss's point of view  |
||
|
23rd Sep 2020 12:48pm |
|
| ibexman Member Since: 13 Dec 2008 Location: Essex Posts: 2945
|
You could clad it with same material as building
|
||
|
23rd Sep 2020 12:53pm |
|
| Ads90 Member Since: 16 Jun 2008 Location: Cots-on-the-Wolds Posts: 812
|
You don't really want any timber lower than 150mm above ground level - it will be more prone to rot.
Here's a few pics of timber frame garages I have worked on with concrete block below sole plate: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge If it is prominent and you are not convinced, I'm sure you could use a frog-less brick, or even clad with brick slips. |
||
|
23rd Sep 2020 1:13pm |
|
| stew 46 Member Since: 26 Jan 2012 Location: Wadebridge ,cornwall . Posts: 561
|
There frame work ( should ) sit flush with the out side of the block work on a DPC and your cladding should come down past the block work by at least 50 MM , it’s better if the inside edge of the cladding that oversails past a top of the block work is 10-15 of the face of the block work as that’s a wet wall .
Stew |
||
|
23rd Sep 2020 1:16pm |
|
| stew 46 Member Since: 26 Jan 2012 Location: Wadebridge ,cornwall . Posts: 561
|
Click image to enlarge |
||
|
23rd Sep 2020 1:19pm |
|
| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2656 
|
I used engineering bricks when I built mine. Two courses high and then the walls sit on top. The wall straps then came down the inside and fixed to the concrete slab rather than the brickwork. Avoids drilling the bricks and also no need to breach the DPC.
|
||
|
23rd Sep 2020 3:06pm |
|
| Rashers Member Since: 21 Jun 2015 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3508 
|
I bet the engineering bricks look fantastic Retroanaconda
 I am a great fan.
You can get a concrete block which has a smoother finish (like what they use for internal walls withing buildings, where there is no dry wall or plaster). They look quite nice when pointed up. Used a lot in commercial properties and popular as a heat sink in eco-houses. Like you, I have had a Google and I can't find anything from the big builders merchants. Those blocks do look a bit stark and unfinished when they are new. As has been said, they do weather and as I have just found, mortar sticks to them like sh** to a blanket (been doing some demolition work on s mall wall I put up about 25 years ago). I think I would look at building in brick instead of block. Will cost a bit more. I hope you have a good supply of wood. I have heard some tales of shiplap being like rocking horse poo in some areas as we all take to home working and everyone wants a home office in the garden. One of my colleagues got given an 8 month lead time for a garden shed 
Covid is obviously doing some companies the world of good. |
||
|
23rd Sep 2020 3:58pm |
|
| the gamekeeper Member Since: 01 Jan 2010 Location: Surrey Posts: 96 
|
An engineering brick will have the same strength for loading, if it is for facing a clay brick could be used DPC will need to be used, a timber frame structure would need to be a minimum of 150mm from finished ground level. Allow the timber cladding to protrude past the DPC joint. Make sure the frogs in the bricks are fully filled and even use strapping to hold down the timber frame or shot fire a timber sole plate to the brickwork.
|
||
|
23rd Sep 2020 4:39pm |
|
| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3757
|
Thanks all
Some good information and advice
My delivery is scheduled for February... everyone is snowed under with work. However I have a fair bit to sort I may start a garage build thread |
||
|
23rd Sep 2020 4:42pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
