 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Handbrake issue and advice on removal of rear output flange |
 
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1790   
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Apart from either forgetting to, or trying to be a smart arse and changing the seal without dropping the oil out first I can't remember anything complicated or specialist tools used when I did mine.
Big circlip pliers to do the clip that hods the oil thrower in position maybe I think Blackwolf did an excellent write up reference the depth to put the new seal in - IIRC! Sounds like the garage haven';t put the return spring back in the proper position /. orientation. Good luck |
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20th Sep 2020 3:55pm |
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| Gloucesternige Member Since: 17 Jan 2020 Location: In the garage Posts: 114  
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The biggest issue i found with removing the output flange on my 2.4 Puma was the fact the factory had fitted it with a bearing fit type sealer, so it was effectively "Glued" on. I applied heat from a blow torch to the flange and then used a three legged puller to remove the flange.
Below is a link to my You Tube channel, you can see the work being carried out on there. Nige Check out my You Tube channel https://www.youtube.com/c/Defender90KeswickNigelsLandRoverchannel |
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21st Sep 2020 4:48pm |
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| ozzie1989 Member Since: 25 Feb 2009 Location: Wales Posts: 282  
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Hi Nige, already a subscriber and didn't even think of looking there!
Will take a look now but not feeling good vibes from what you said! I've decided to rebuild the handbrake assembly with new parts tonight, now it's removed from the vehicle (how easy was that). I will attempt the flange tomorrow when I have more time and daylight hours 
Thanks all! Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition) |
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21st Sep 2020 5:27pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8097  
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could it be the handbrake cable sticking? Can you see it fully return when released?
Had an electrical faults and hb cable acted as earth? Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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21st Sep 2020 7:55pm |
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| ozzie1989 Member Since: 25 Feb 2009 Location: Wales Posts: 282
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Hi all and thanks for the advice!
So the flange did come off without a puller and/or heat, however it did take 15 minutes with a large blunt flat punch and a hammer. The reason it took so long was because I turned it a quarter turn every 3-4 hits so that it came off evenly. At first I wasn't sure it was moving, but after a while it was easy to see it was coming a bit at a time. Mine, like many others seemed to have some sort of bearing fit/stud lock compound applied to the splines which had gone hard and was sticking the two parts together. I cleaned up the output shaft, fitted the new flange, guard, seal etc. and also installed the fibre washer along with the large thick washer and new nyloc nut. The old setup didn't use a fibre washer, but I presume this is because there was a sealant on the splines themselves stopping oil from escaping. New flange went on and off easily with a few taps once the splines were cleaned, but was by no means loose. As for the handbrake, for the sake of £50 I was able to buy all new parts with the exception of the back plate. My old back plate was fine and cleaned up really well. It is safe to say that the new parts (springs, shoes, cable etc.) have solved the issue and I now have a handbrake that is 'as new'. What a difference! One tip for anyone else attempting this - don't do what I did and struggle to fit the handbrake cable for 20 minutes. I found that if you unbolted the handbrake lever from the seat box you could pull it through enough to work on it (and adjust cable if you ever needed) from the cab. The problem was that I was trying to insert the end of the cable outer complete with rubber grommet - as I found out it's much easier to pull off the rubber grommet, fit this to the handbrake lever first, then pull the eye/cable through it. As mine was pretty tight I just used some string tied around the eye to pull it through. Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition) |
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26th Sep 2020 2:04pm |
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| ozzie1989 Member Since: 25 Feb 2009 Location: Wales Posts: 282
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Sorry to bring this back up but after 6 months I've got oil leaking into the hand brake drum.
I'm guessing that the pattern parts I fitted have failed or something has gone amiss so I need to strip it down. I seem to remember reading a thread here somewhere that only the genuine output flange and seal won't leak and that the pattern parts are sometimes not true - however I can't find that post so may be making it up. Seems strange it's gone now, handbrake was working lovely too, only thing I can think of is that the weather is warmer so the oil is slightly thinner... Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition) |
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30th May 2021 11:05pm |
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| ozzie1989 Member Since: 25 Feb 2009 Location: Wales Posts: 282
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Quick update, on stripping down it was clear to see the oil was coming from the seal on the surface where the shaft runs through it.
It had coated everything in the handbrake in a lovely film of shiny oil! Two things I spotted that could have contributed... 1 the nut (despite being a new lock nut and tourqed on assembly) wasn't tight enough and 2 the dust cover had a mark where it touches the outward protrusion of the seal. I can only put it down to the warmer weather and the oil being thinner that it's showed up now. New parts hopefully coming tomorrow and I'll reassemble with a little thread lock behind the nyloc nut to hopefully hold it in place. As it's fairly easy to access I may even remove prop in 1 month and check it again. Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition) |
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3rd Jun 2021 9:40pm |
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