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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8025

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Battery light on. Any funnies and how to change?
just driven 40 miles to an event, parked up, went to move vehicle 20mins later and battery light goes out on started up then comes back on 2 or 3 seconds later and stays on.

Restarted does the same.

IGN on, battery and oil light on as normal in position II prior to starting.

No charge going to battery from voltage test at battery. Remains at 12.6v

Ancil belt is fine.

This to me says alternator fault as it has the 12v exciter wire indicator light coming on with pos II. And same light comes back on after starting so def 12v there its just not seeing a signal back from the alt after 2 to 3s running.

Query is are there some funnies with the puma in that batt indicator light Does go out initially but then comes back on.

Failed alternator I would assume light just stays on?

Or is light off then back on a sign or regulator playing up?

Or am I missing something completely?

Typically I have now left vehicle until evening so can't easily check anything further.

Next question, changing alternator on a 2.4, easy job? Not done one, does it physically come out OK or do you need to to take other ancils off first? Other than belt that is. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #850460 17th Aug 2020 10:24am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Is the Puma the same as the TD5 and part of the circuit has something do with the brake lights/fuse?
My TD5 wasn't charging. Turned out brake light fuse had gone/had no brake lights. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #850466 17th Aug 2020 10:46am
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8025

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
not sure, did that give you charge light on?

will check lights when get to vehicle this eve.

other link then could be recent change of accelerator potentiometer - are they all linked? Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #850527 17th Aug 2020 2:47pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17372

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
It does on the face of it sound like a failed alternator, there's no way that I am aware of that changing the throttle pot could have contributed to this (but it is a Landrover, so who knows).
Post #850528 17th Aug 2020 2:50pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
jst wrote:
not sure, did that give you charge light on?

will check lights when get to vehicle this eve.

other link then could be recent change of accelerator potentiometer - are they all linked?


It was a while ago. But it does look as BW said a failed alty. Sad 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #850529 17th Aug 2020 2:53pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8025

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
I have brake lights.

All fuses seem to be as they should be.

As I get battery tell tale light on i am assuming harness to alt is good. Have alt coming wed so will take a closer look then.

I dont think its related to the potentiometer but as you say its a lr who knows! Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #850604 17th Aug 2020 8:08pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20348

United Kingdom 
Yes, sounds like a failed alternator.
The battery light on the dash probably cuts in around 13.2v I’d say, usually comes on during starting due to voltage drop then should increase to charging voltage then be regulated to around 14.6v.

This is what mine was showing the other day whilst running, shouldn’t be too bad to change.
IIRC the live output studs have a torque setting and I’m sure the mounting bolts do too which would be in the WSM.

I’m sure you wouldn’t anyway but don’t forget to disconnect the battery first.

Often they can fail with water and mud and stuff that can get in them, mines original and haven’t had any issues but I expect I’m tempting fate now!

What brand did you go for Gen or another? IIRC, the genuine one was ridiculously expensive as is the starter motor for rebranded parts. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #850724 18th Aug 2020 3:31pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8025

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Its not been dunked so not sure on failure if it is indeed the alt. Will take it off when I physically have the replacement, as can drive home if need to with it as is.

Hella replacement

Had a quick look, seems simple enough, alt due tomorrow so will no doubt change it in the rain! Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #850745 18th Aug 2020 5:20pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8025

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Ok, so just got to vehicle with spare alternator. Thought I would start it up to test first....... works as it should do, charging at 14.2v at battery. ........

Now I am confused. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop


Last edited by jst on 19th Aug 2020 3:14pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #850921 19th Aug 2020 2:57pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8025

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Double post Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #850922 19th Aug 2020 2:58pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20348

United Kingdom 
Could be the regulator, I think there are some electronics in there.
Are the connection studs clean and torqued correctly?
Charging voltage should be about 13.2v - 14.8v which maybe a sporadic fault if it was lower before.

What voltage is the battery sitting at, at rest?
It maybe worth getting that tested as well.
It’s not unknown for a plate to fail in the battery too.

With mine I’ve been seeing around 12.6v at rest and about 14.6v with the engine running and in use pretty much consistently.

When the engine is running is the voltage largely stable or does it fluctuate quite a bit?

Worth checking the battery ground post, and the grounding connection on the T box as well as the live connections too.

Hope some of these suggestions help. Thumbs Up
Good luck. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #850935 19th Aug 2020 3:26pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17372

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
That's a feature of the classic Defender called the "intermittent fault", it was factory fitted as a zero-cost option at build time! Rolling with laughter
Post #850948 19th Aug 2020 3:59pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8025

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Cheers for replies.

12.6v at rest, its dropped to 12.5 in 3 days static non engine run so happy with battery.

All connections are good to battery posts.

14.2 constant output from alt at the battery, drop momentarily when load applied ie heated screen, lights, then comes back up to 14.1, 14.2 in less than a second. Alt seems to be doing what it should.

I am wondering if its going to repeat the fault when it's hot after a run. Maybe brush pack sticking when turned off hot. Once cooled happy to work again.or similar heat related fault in the regulator.? Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #850959 19th Aug 2020 4:17pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20348

United Kingdom 
It could be, like Blackwolf says pretty much anything anything is possible. If it’s hot weather you could have issues, if cold it could be.

You may already have one but might be worth temporarily wiring in a voltage gauge to keep an eye on it. That would save you manually checking, but as I said you possibly already have one. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #850964 19th Aug 2020 4:25pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8025

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Already have one, and have checked its recording accurately.

Will see what it does after its next run Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #850979 19th Aug 2020 5:09pm
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