DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - How to remove corroded door lock cylinder

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > How to remove corroded door lock cylinder

Page 1 of 1

Print this entire topic ·

Gasher

Member Since: 19 Apr 2020
Location: E Sussxe
Posts: 12

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Bonatti Grey

How to remove corroded door lock cylinder

Drivers door lock stuck solid

I have a late 2013 defender 110 with a drivers door that often takes 2-3 unlocks and locks to get the door to fully unlock with the central locking. It also takes 2-3 locks and unlocks with the central locking to get the door to fully lock. All the other doors are fine.

The only other thing with the drivers door is that the key lock won’t turn at all when using the correct key. I guess the lock has seized through lack of use. So I have WD40’d it regularly for several weeks but to no avail.

So today I thought it was time to have a look to see why the door won’t lock or unlock on the first press of the alarm fob.

Well all went well, door card off (without braking any of the fir trees), found the cylinder on the inside of the door corroded but managed to get the E clip off and disconnect the linkage to the latch mechanism etc (see photos).

Good news is that this seemed to cure the locking unlocking problem completely. The drivers door now unlocks and locks on the first press of the fob which is great.

Rather than leave it with the lock disconnected I decided to remove the existing lock cylinder with the view to either freeing up the pins in the lock which I assume are corroded and stuck or replacing the cylinder with a new one.

However I simply cannot get the lock cylinder to come out, with or without the key in it. I have even tried a gentle tap with a hammer and a long punch to try to push it out but no go.

If the pins are corroded will the stop the cylinder coming out?

So next I thought I’d remove the door handle with cylinder in situ so I could have a better look.

Well the left hand torx screw holding the handle came undone without to much trouble (just a little fiddly) but the right hand torx screw (the one nearest the latch - see photo) just turned and turned and won’t unscrew. So removing the handle ended there.

So I currently have a door that will happily lock and unlock with the fob if the lock is disconnected inside the door but a lock cylinder that is seized and won’t turn with the key and I am unable to get the lock cylinder out or take the door handle off.

I would like to get the lock back into use or replace it does anyone have any ideas on how to get the cylinder out and /or the door handle off?

Many thanks

19th Apr 2020 3:14pm

JOHNT01670

Member Since: 24 Jun 2015
Location: CRAMLINGTON, Northumberland
Posts: 188

I revived my drivers door lock recently having purchased a replacement in error (2 rear door locks)....

I removed the rod from the top of the lock (in your last photograph) mechanism and the cir-clip on the barrel. With the key in place the lock came out without removing the handle - I may have tapped it from inside the door to help the process.

The lock mechanism was put into my vice and sprayed with WD, heated up and wire brushed. The parts of the lock required spraying and light help to start freeing them up but eventually all were fully released.

I coated them with graphite powder and re-installed and working better than ever. 2006 TD5
2002 Honda Transalp 650
1995 Yamaha Vmax 1200
2014 Nissan Juke (wifes)

25th Apr 2020 10:37am

Gasher

Member Since: 19 Apr 2020
Location: E Sussxe
Posts: 12

John

Many thanks for your reply.

I'm not sure why but when I put my key in the lock I can't 'feel' anything at all so I wonder if the lock tumblers are frozen in place.

Anyway i've tried exactly what you describe but cannot get the lock barrel to come out even with a little encouragement. In fact all I get when I give the inside of the lock barrel a little tap is that the ket fly's out of the lock but the lock barrel stays unmoved.

I have even tried to see if there is a small vertical pin on the end of the lock barrel that I need to press down to allow the lock barrel to come out but cannot seem to find one to press down. Ot thats frozen/stuck as well.

Did you have to press a pin down? If you did then I'll keep trying.

Any suggestion gratefully received

Thanks

Gasher

27th Apr 2020 4:08pm

JOHNT01670

Member Since: 24 Jun 2015
Location: CRAMLINGTON, Northumberland
Posts: 188

Hi there,

There should be a release point to remove the tumblers from the barrell but I did not use that as all I wanted to do was free them up as they were seized.
That's was how some heat and WD with wire brush and gentle persuasion worked for me.
I know my rear lock was also bad and I drilled the tumblers out as that was solid, the replacement lick then went straight in after cleaning. 2006 TD5
2002 Honda Transalp 650
1995 Yamaha Vmax 1200
2014 Nissan Juke (wifes)

27th Apr 2020 4:54pm

Gasher

Member Since: 19 Apr 2020
Location: E Sussxe
Posts: 12

Thanks

As the space is so tight im going to have to cut the head off the handle bolt nearest the latch to get the handle off the door (the bolt just turns)

Hopefully then I can get the lock out and free the tumblers up

Fingers crossed

3rd May 2020 9:26am

keith

Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 2211

Exactly same drivers door issues. Stuck solid.
How did the above pan out Knasher ?

Keith

22nd Jul 2020 9:11pm

Gasher

Member Since: 19 Apr 2020
Location: E Sussxe
Posts: 12

hi

well it turned out to be a bit of a saga but I didi fix it so all fine now

I've just typed up what I did which will hopefully assist you Please forgive me if Ive stated what you already know.

Im not sure how to attached a pdf to this post I have taken screen shots of each page and attached those.

finger crossed.

If you have any questions please just ask and Id be happy to help

cheers

23rd Jul 2020 4:00pm

Gasher

Member Since: 19 Apr 2020
Location: E Sussxe
Posts: 12

Click image to enlarge

23rd Jul 2020 4:01pm

Bluericky

Member Since: 26 Jun 2014
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 647

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Keswick Green

Unbelievable, I went through exactly the same saga two days ago !
I replaced the door handles along with the locks . The handles torx screws were spinning but I used mole grips to hold it , then drilled it out .
I had the second handle off in half the time. I didn’t even bother trying to remove the barrels from the handles as they were seized solid. https://www.instagram.com/hustynminepark/

23rd Jul 2020 8:06pm

PCM

Member Since: 25 Jan 2019
Location: North East
Posts: 868

As another security layer I replaced my entire handle with one without a lock.
Central locking works fine and if it fails i can still get in the rear door.

23rd Jul 2020 10:39pm

keith

Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 2211

Great write up Gnasher. 👍

Keith

11th Sep 2020 12:26pm

Page 1 of 1

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum