Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Ramps |
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L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10728 |
^^^
1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper. Clayton. |
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17th Jan 2019 10:06pm |
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Bongo1 Member Since: 02 Nov 2018 Location: Cheshire Posts: 815 |
s .
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30th Jan 2019 9:55pm |
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B4Lamb Member Since: 21 Mar 2015 Location: Abergavenny, Wales Posts: 233 |
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I saw some drive up ramps on this forum on the subject of a full oil service. I asked where the ramps came from but didn't get a reply. I decided to design and make my own modular ramp kit. They work well and i got them galvanized so they last. Click image to enlarge You can configure just simple ramp and stand to pop up either the front or rear or assemble the full set to get both front and back wheels up and the car level. No bolts and nuts they just plug together. "You are never to old to learn something new" |
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16th Mar 2020 11:56pm |
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Sulisuli Member Since: 30 Oct 2016 Location: South west Posts: 4795 |
That’s a very smart setup 2015 HT XS 90
2008 SVX 90 2000 XS TD5 90 |
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17th Mar 2020 6:07am |
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sako243 Member Since: 08 Jul 2014 Location: Wales Posts: 1215 |
I'd avoid using blocks because as @blackwolf said they can crumble under you. The main issue is without warning - timber at least (if it's in decent nick) gives you some warning when it's about to go. I have had concrete blocks crumble, not under a vehicle but under something of similar weight. Ed 82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6 95 Defender 110 300Tdi |
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17th Mar 2020 8:46am |
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B4Lamb Member Since: 21 Mar 2015 Location: Abergavenny, Wales Posts: 233 |
[quote="Doc P"]
I designed for a 90 but a 110 just needs longer bridge sections between the stands. I've no plans to make these though. The same construction would work though with no need to increase csa of the materials. As for posting the kit weighs 250 kg so not ideal. "You are never to old to learn something new" |
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8th Jun 2020 9:52pm |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20270 |
I did mine on the ground, it may be tougher but at least there isn’t a threat of life changing injury.
I acknowledge that it isn’t an option for everyone though. After the time I had the factory jack slide down the threads you think it’s never worth the risk, luckily in that case I still had the wheels on and only loosened them slightly and never went under as obviously no one would. (With common sense.) My point is, as has been covered slightly things can fail on you not even your fault. Ground stability and factors like that also have a bearing, always makes me cringe. That aside, I have had great results with the Dinitrol aerosol. Has lasted years already. |
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8th Jun 2020 10:39pm |
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B4Lamb Member Since: 21 Mar 2015 Location: Abergavenny, Wales Posts: 233 |
Its pretty common knowledge that you should never trust a Jack on its own if you wanted to get under a car. You always need an axle stand or equivalent as a secondary safety measure. The ramps have no moving parts and designed such that you would need multiple points of near simultaneous failure to cause a collapse. I tend to trust my own design calculations and my TIG welding to know they would not fail. And yes you would only use them on stable ground.
Its a pleasure to work on the underside when its up there as you can sit up and your head doesn't touch anything except to two diffs. "You are never to old to learn something new" |
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8th Jun 2020 11:19pm |
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Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1971 |
Two sets of wide drive up on car ramps come in very handy. I extended them with 6x2 by 3ft timber home made easy ups with a block screwed to the bottom so it touches the floor to easy cater for load when driven on.
Place one set in front of front wheels. The second set will easy fit under body in front of rear wheels. Make sure they are all straight and aligned then slowly drive up in LOW range and 1st gear. When up stop engine and leave in first and apply hand brake. Ideal for engine, gearbox, transfer box, diff oil changes, rust prevention etc . Can’t do things that require wheels off but does give so much more space. Plus they all pack away into a small space in shed or garage. Note: for first time use just use one set on front wheels so you get used to spacing them and driving up them. Perhaps with a helper to guide you. You can even drive half way up, stop, put in neutral, hand brake on and make sure it’s holding and get out to check all is ok. Then back in and complete assent. Just don’t go mad and go over them , noting you do feel when you reach the edge. The easy ups make this all work by the way.. this is still good for oil changes but not as good as using all four ramps. Once confident you can move onto using the fronts and rears at the same time and you have your truck up and level. I keep meaning to take a pictures of the easy ups and ramps with the 110 on them. Will do when next using them and post. |
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8th Jun 2020 11:24pm |
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Pilgrimmick Member Since: 16 Nov 2015 Location: Highlands Posts: 582 |
That is fine, spades were well made in those days, do not try it with a cheap modern one!😂 80" 1948 Lightweight V8 Bowler Tomcat 130 Station wagon 90 300tdi (Santana PS10 pick up) Range Rover L322 (Ful fat) |
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9th Jun 2020 8:15am |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17312 |
An excellent technique, and one I have been known to use myself on occasion!
Click image to enlarge |
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9th Jun 2020 8:49am |
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B4Lamb Member Since: 21 Mar 2015 Location: Abergavenny, Wales Posts: 233 |
One reason I had mine Galvanised was so I can leave them outside in the elements. "You are never to old to learn something new" |
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13th Jun 2020 12:08am |
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kmac Member Since: 07 Oct 2009 Location: Middlesex Posts: 1308 |
At least its on grass which should reduce the body damage |
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13th Jun 2020 10:35am |
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RoddyK05 Member Since: 08 Apr 2015 Location: Inverclyde Posts: 633 |
I use a set of motorhome levelling ramps if I need a bit of extra space underneath. If they are designed to hold several tons of camper van they will hold a 90.
Click image to enlarge |
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13th Jun 2020 12:03pm |
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