DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Transfer case fill plug

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Transfer case fill plug

Page 1 of 1

Print this entire topic ·

Justtellme

Member Since: 23 Nov 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 310

Transfer case fill plug

I decided to change the gearbox oils today.
The transmission fill plug was a bit of a bear but finally gave up with the torx bit on a 1/2” breaker bar.....drain plug came off relatively easily.
Drained and filled through the center seatbox removable panel and all seems good with Redline MTL, but was alarmed at all the brass/bronze glitter in the pan for a TD5 110 with only 120k km.

Tried the transfer case fill plug and there was absolutely no movement.
I tried a 3/4” breaker bar with an extension for more torque but was afraid of breaking something.
Clearly difficult to get the square plug dead on with the hand brake drum in place.

I think that it is the first time in 17 years that someone has tried to remove either of the two plugs.

Any advice on how to handle this? Remove the brake drum? Apply heat to the plug avoiding the alloy case?Can I remove the 6 bolts holding the rear cover on and fill from there instead?...assuming the drain plug will come loose( didnt even try until I sort out the fill options)

Patrick

4th Jun 2020 1:46am

Shroppy

Member Since: 25 Feb 2016
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 866

1986 Defender 130 V8 Petrol HCPU Aintree Green

I know the LT230 fill plug can often be quite tight but, I am surprised to hear it isn't moving with a 3/4 bar. I can't quite remember if the threads are conical or not on those plugs, if they're not, you could try tightening the plug a fraction before undoing it.

Removing the transmission brake drum will certainly give you more access, I found a 1/2" bar (without extension to reduce chance of slipping) was more than sufficient on the boxes I've worked on so far.

Removing the 6 bolts and cover will give you access to the input gear (may be beneficial as you'll be able to check for wear on the splines) but, isn't ideal for filling the box as you won't have a guide for fill level.

If you can avoid heating the ally case then then a little heat may well work, I've had great success using a culinary blow torch to heat bolts/nuts up whilst avoiding applying direct heat to the surroundings. I wouldn't advocate this unless other steps don't work though.

I would hope the drain plug on the LT230 would be less tight as it is only a 15mm(?) head, you could remove the bottom cover at a pinch but be prepared for an avalanche of oil. 1985 127 V8 Build Thread
Series 2 109"
Series 1 80"

5th Jun 2020 8:42am

ibexman

Member Since: 13 Dec 2008
Location: Essex
Posts: 2957

Sometimes a hammer blow shock on the extension bar helps

5th Jun 2020 8:46am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17608

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

The drain and filler plugs on all the later (certainly Disco2/TD5/TDCi era) LT230s are 3/4" BSPT full form, 14 tpi, and of course seal on the thread being BSPT and full form. The only difference between the filler and drain plugs is that the drain plug has a magnet bonded to it.

Usually I put a 1/2" drive ratchet straight into the 1/2" square hole in the filler plug to shift it, since, as you have found, the handbrake is intrusive. If you really can't shift by this means I would suggest unbolting the handbrake backplate and tying it up out of the way, which permits very good access.

Some heat won't do any harm but don't go mad with the oxy-acetylene since you can set the oil on fire and melt the aluminium of the box. You will probably find that brute force shifts it once you can get on straight.

The usual problem is that it's a taper plug in an aluminium housing which has been done up by a gorilla with no clue what he's doing!

5th Jun 2020 9:04am

jocklandjohn

Member Since: 16 Sep 2016
Location: Highlands
Posts: 62

I'd suggest (if you've not already done this) to try taking it for a good thrash beforehand and get it really warmed up which might provide some additional expansion and enable you to budge it. I'd a similar nightmare, and it wasn't an easy removal.

5th Jun 2020 10:14pm

Marks Landy

Member Since: 09 Feb 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 302

Repeated Liberal application of penetrating oil ? Pluggas is my favourite, not WD40.

6th Jun 2020 5:08am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17608

Unusually in this case penetrating oil won't help because it's a tapered full-form thread, i.e., the plug seals on the thread. There's no crevice, crack, or gap for the oil to penetrate.

6th Jun 2020 8:36am

Justtellme

Member Since: 23 Nov 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 310

Thank you everyone,
I think I will try shifting the backplate on the hand brake to ensure I am square with the plug with minimal extensions, then apply some heavy torque.
After having driven about 150 kms now with the Redline MTL in the gearbox, it seems so much smoother to shift ( no clunk into second when cold anymore) and it seems quieter, but that might just be my imagination.
Will report back with tales of success or failure on the fill plug.......
Patrick

6th Jun 2020 11:27am

roel

Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

I am working on the ground and sometimes that is an advantage. I have a long 1/2" drive bar. Straight in it and with 2 feet against it, it normally comes loose. Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)

6th Jun 2020 2:58pm

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5811

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver

You could give tightening it a go, or another option is to put a pressure on the breaker bar, either mate, or jack, then give the head of the breaker bar a good smack with a hammer. See if the shock helps free it.

6th Jun 2020 3:19pm

Justtellme

Member Since: 23 Nov 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 310

roel wrote:
I am working on the ground and sometimes that is an advantage. I have a long 1/2" drive bar. Straight in it and with 2 feet against it, it normally comes loose.

Im in the same spot, and did the same for both diff plugs a few weeks ago,. Trying from above with the center seatbox panel removed, i could not line up the 1/2” breaker bar in the correct orientation to use the space in the cabin either.

Working on the ground underneath, I need an extension because of the routing of the hand brake cable below the fill plug and due to the backspacing of the hand brake drum, but that results in an inability to be dead on the plug which could lead to a further danger of rounding the plug.
Maybe my handbrake cable is not properly routed?

Hope to attack again this weekend.
Patrick

6th Jun 2020 6:13pm

roel

Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

I have a RHD you probably have a LHD. I have to pull the handbrake cable a bit to the rear to get it behind and in the plug. Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)

6th Jun 2020 6:38pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17608

If you do end up removing the handbrake backplate, the cable will miraculously move out of the way with the backplate and life becomes a lot easier. You don't have to remove the shoes etc, just unbolt the front end of the rear propshaft and tie the propshaft up out of the way, undo the one securing screw on the drum and remove the drum, then undo the four bolts holding the backplate to the transfer box and move the backplate, complete with shoes, cable, etc out of the way. I seem to recall that you can rest it on top of the centre diff housing to keep it out of the way. It all sounds more work than it actually is. You may have to back off the handbrake shoes to get the drum off, in which case don't forget to adjust the handbrake afterwards.

It's a good opportunity to grease the rear propshaft whilst you can articulat the joints too.

6th Jun 2020 6:53pm

Justtellme

Member Since: 23 Nov 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 310

Thanks Blackwolf.
That sounds like the safest plan.....

Roel,
Im guessing the LHD vs RHD may be the issue as to why I am having trouble with the cable fouling the plug access with a 1/2" breaker bar directly as opposed to others on this site!!

Patrick

6th Jun 2020 8:15pm

Page 1 of 1

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum