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| The Zee Member Since: 26 May 2019 Location: Salisbury Posts: 289   
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2014, 110 2.2 Puma : How are the front and rear window seals (outer) removed and subsequently refitted?
I’ve looked at the fronts, and the window retracts almost fully into the door so I assume fronts are the easy one? But the rear windows still have about 5cm or more of glass above the seal even when it’s fully down? 
All four seals have started to bubble under the rubber, I assume this is the steel reinforcement going rotten.  Zaid-M
www.DefencePhotos.com 2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver Not just transport more like a religion |
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19th May 2020 10:18pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841 
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From your description I think you're talking about either the vertical window channels that the moving glass slides up and down in, or the 'waist' seal, which runs horizontally between the door and the glass?
The waist seals are simple enough, you would just lever them upwards using some sort of non-scratching nylon or plastic tool, and then tap on the new ones. If it's waist seals, use genuine. Don't even think of pattern parts for door seals. I can have differing views on the genuine vs pattern parts debate, but for door seals my experience says genuine every time. If it's the vertical channels, I'm afraid that's much more involved and complicated. Means effectively taking the door apart - door card off, window lifting mechanism off, window out, replace channels.... Nothing especially 'difficult' but not one of my favourite jobs. A picture would help  Donald
1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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20th May 2020 9:16am |
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| The Zee Member Since: 26 May 2019 Location: Salisbury Posts: 289
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As requested, a quick photo of the seal I am describing : it's the horizontal seal at the bottom of the window.
 Click image to enlarge Zaid-M www.DefencePhotos.com 2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver Not just transport more like a religion |
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20th May 2020 11:23am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841
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Good stuff - yep, that's the outer waist seal.
There's not much involved in changing them over - just squeezing something non-scratching underneath it, and prising it off the door, and then working along the seal. Once enough of it has come up, then you'll be able to get a hold of it, and pull the rest away. Putting a new on one is just a question of lining it up and pressing it on. That said, is that one of the ones you're concerned about? I can't see much bubbling there to warrant a changeover. There's a lot of life left in that yet in my opinion. I wouldn't be rushing to change that personally. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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20th May 2020 11:28am |
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| The Zee Member Since: 26 May 2019 Location: Salisbury Posts: 289
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Thanks for that info Donmacn.
That seal is as you say is OK, but oddly the one on the opposite door is a lot worse. It seems the waist seals on the drivers side are a lot worse than those on the passanger side, - Just plain weird  Zaid-M
www.DefencePhotos.com 2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver Not just transport more like a religion |
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20th May 2020 11:47am |
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