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CharlieDonuts



Member Since: 16 Jun 2019
Location: Illiers Combray
Posts: 133

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Galway Green
Do I actually need a spare wheel ?


So I have a Puma 90 with Cooper STT PRO tyres with armor tek on alloy wheels.

This week I took the rear wheel off the back door to replace the wiper arm. The flipping wheel weighs 40kg, 3/4 of a hundredweight. I got it off alone but had to find someone to help me put it back on again. 99% I am on my own and I think that I would struggle to change a tyre alone. (I am middle aged and I have a few gentleman's sporting injuries easily aggravated by humping stuff about)

So I am thinking do I actually need this spare wheel? Can I get by with an air compressor and a tyre repair kit? If you watch the video above you really have to be going some to puncture these tyres.

So what do you think? could I take it off ? and what would you put there instead ?

I just poodle about in France mostly and I have break-down cover if I am really stuck but I am only a novice adventurer Mr. Green
Post #830042 9th May 2020 9:39am
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bankz5152



Member Since: 02 Feb 2017
Location: South London/North Kent
Posts: 2178

2004 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Epsom Green
Up to you really. Tyres have come a LONG way but I wouldnt be without a spare. Chance are itll blow when your down a country lane with no phone signal! Laughing key is it takes 10 - 20mins to change a tyre. An hour for breakdownat least, 2hours+ for a low loader to arrive.

Ive had my STMaxxs on for 3 years, 35k maybe 40k. Still going strong and been all over, rocks, sand, high speed gravel, mountain tracks and the usual UK roads. One has a few dings and cuts but nothing serious.

Impressive video! Love my tyres even more now Laughing Instagram @defender_ventures
Empire Tuning - Agent


Last edited by bankz5152 on 9th May 2020 10:01am. Edited 2 times in total
Post #830046 9th May 2020 9:55am
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4216

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
At least if you have the spare you can call RAC or whoever to come and change it for you. No spare and you’re on a tow truck. I have spent countless occasions with people unsuccessfully trying to use tyre foam. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #830047 9th May 2020 9:59am
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Doc P



Member Since: 03 Apr 2016
Location: Midlands
Posts: 565

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Firenze Red
I've had 1 puncture (of the OEM Contis) in the 4 years I've had the vehicle - a shard of steel about 1 inch long from no idea where which happened to stick in a groove, not a land of the tread! Ran with a slow leak till I noticed it.

My XC90 had 1 puncture which needed roadside attention in all 7 years of ownership - it didn't have a spare but a compressor/sealant combination as part of original spec (which wasn't great TBH).

The choice is to take the (small) risk of getting stranded or have 'peace of mind' with a spare i suppose. The sealant/compressor combo's only really good for small holes anyway.
Post #830048 9th May 2020 10:00am
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2645

South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
While off-road in November, I ran into a hidden fence anchor (skip to 4:35):




No amount of tyre repair would fix that, so yes, you do need a spare.

Worst case scenario: if you can't lift the damaged tyre back onto the door, just put it inside the vehicle until you get to a repair shop? --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ
Post #830049 9th May 2020 10:01am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17449

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I would hate to be without a spare, you know what will inevitably happen.

A Mantec Tufflift makes getting ot on a door mount an easy one-person job.
Post #830052 9th May 2020 10:19am
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defender9



Member Since: 12 Mar 2016
Location: Fylde Coast
Posts: 1629

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Is there any bit of kit which helps you get a wheel and tyre onto the hub? I know it’s only a few inches of lift to get it onto the studs but I have just done my back in again changing a 750 tyre.
Post #830057 9th May 2020 10:32am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17449

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
A shovel or spade works really well. Since I always have one in the vehicle, I always use one.

Stick the wheel on the tip of the spade, press down on the handle, and Bob's your uncle.
Post #830059 9th May 2020 10:35am
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4216

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
There are plenty of contraption for lifting wheels onto hubs in a workshop setting, but not much that is portable. Maybe a GoJack would do it. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #830060 9th May 2020 10:36am
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2645

South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Not that I know of.

The only thing I can think of is to carry a block of wood with you, and then just roll up the tyre on it.

You would obviously have to measure the height & cut it to fit, etc. But any carpentry shop should be able to cut it for you.


I see the Wolf lift is also available: https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Land-Rover-Wolf-7X...4474709228 --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ
Post #830061 9th May 2020 10:37am
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BogMonster



Member Since: 05 Feb 2008
Location: Stanley
Posts: 400

Falkland Islands 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
It's an interesting question. I never go anywhere without one, if I am going anywhere interesting I often take two, the second one usually being a 'space saver' 205R16 on the basis that it's better to run on than a brake disc.

The last time I had to take a wheel off outside the garage was at least ten years ago and that's with a fair bit of use on gravel roads and off road. Every other puncture I have had since has been a slow one due to nails, and I've spotted it, taken it into the workshop, popped the wheel off and put an ARB plug into it.

However the scenario that does happen (and has happened to me in the past) is something like a broken off farm fence standard in the ground. They're usually rusty, usually sharp, usually invisible and usually make a 2 inch hole in the tyre which you'll not fix with anything. You can destroy both tyres on one side in the space of 5 seconds.

So the answer is probably no you don't, except when you need one, when yes you do. ---
2006 Defender 110 SW 300Tdi • 2011 Ford Ranger XLT crewcab • 2015 Defender 110 Station Wagon Utility TDCi


Last edited by BogMonster on 9th May 2020 11:36am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #830066 9th May 2020 11:15am
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bankz5152



Member Since: 02 Feb 2017
Location: South London/North Kent
Posts: 2178

2004 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Epsom Green
defender9 wrote:
Is there any bit of kit which helps you get a wheel and tyre onto the hub? I know it’s only a few inches of lift to get it onto the studs but I have just done my back in again changing a 750 tyre.


All about technique. Mine are 285/75/16 with Bowler alloys they are not light!

Find it best to squat down and use my thighs with arms to refit.

Getting it back on the rear door is a careful and precise dead lift Laughing Instagram @defender_ventures
Empire Tuning - Agent
Post #830068 9th May 2020 11:29am
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2645

South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
BogMonster wrote:
... However the scenario that does happen (and has happened to me in the past) is something like a broken off farm fence standard in the ground. They're usually rusty, usually sharp, usually invisible and usually make a 2 inch hole in the tyre which you'll not fix with anything. You can destroy both tyres on one side in the space of 5 seconds.

So the answer is probably no you don't, except when you need one, when yes you do.



precisely what happened to me, and this was my first punctuce in 10 years of driving my Defender! --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ
Post #830073 9th May 2020 12:26pm
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Swine&Small



Member Since: 20 Mar 2017
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 1223

United Kingdom 
Can you get a spacesaver that would be easier to lift and will get you out of trouble and to the nearest tyre shop ?
A lot of vehicles have had these in the past prior to the canisters, so I am sure it would be legal to use in an emergency. 1983 Series 3 Pick up in Marine Blue
1967 Morris Traveller
1966 Morris Convertible
2012 VW T5 Camper
Quod Abundat Non Obstat.
Post #830075 9th May 2020 12:42pm
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v8bob



Member Since: 14 Mar 2018
Location: Midlands
Posts: 319

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
I had a mantec on my puma, of course only used it when the spare was removed for cleaning.
If you did go space saver you would still have the problem of what to do with the removed wheel. Bound to have a full vehicle, so can’t throw it in the back.
My wolf also has a mantec, (or mod equivalent), it was adjusted spot on, so simple and hardly any effort.
When fitting a wheel to the vehicle you can lower the vehicle a bit, lean the wheel in to put top wheel nut on, then jack it back up a couple of inches to fit fully.
Post #830081 9th May 2020 1:30pm
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