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| kmac Member Since: 07 Oct 2009 Location: Middlesex Posts: 1309   
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Interesting article here comparing the top contenders....
https://shoptoolreviews.com/automotive/imp...out/30501/ |
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15th Apr 2020 10:36am |
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| BogMonster Member Since: 05 Feb 2008 Location: Stanley Posts: 400  
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I used one of those a while back and was blown away with how good it was. I was very tempted to buy one but it was about £500 for the model I had used and I decided it was not something I would use often enough but would like to find it in the Christmas stocking! --- 2006 Defender 110 SW 300Tdi • 2011 Ford Ranger XLT crewcab • 2015 Defender 110 Station Wagon Utility TDCi |
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15th Apr 2020 10:51am |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2656 
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Makita have their own range of 18V impact wrenches which will do the same job as the Milwaukee ones. I have one of the smaller ones which I bought recently, the DTW285, and it seems capable of almost all the nuts on a Land Rover. It’s small size and adjustable power level makes it ideal for this. I have an air impact wrench for undoing the bigger stuff (crank bolts etc.) and I crack the wheel nuts with a breaker bar anyway as they have to be re-torqued manually as it is. |
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15th Apr 2020 11:57am |
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| kmac Member Since: 07 Oct 2009 Location: Middlesex Posts: 1309
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Thanks retro - one of the larger Makitas is reviewed in the link I posted earlier - seems to do okay but not even close in terms of torque to the Milwaukee
Anyway I manage with my 1/2 inch ratchet or breaker bar so this is just an Xmas wish list item rather than a must have |
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15th Apr 2020 2:20pm |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4216 
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If you are interested in power tool reviews focusing on the engineering inside, have a look at AvE’s BOLTR reviews on YouTube. Excellent, educational and imaginative use of language
 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS |
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15th Apr 2020 2:41pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2029
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Two sets of wide drive up on car ramps come in very handy. I extended them with 6x2 by 3ft timber home made easy ups with a block screwed to the bottom so it touches the floor to easy cater for load when driven on.
Place one set in front of front wheels. The second set will easy fit under body in front of rear wheels. Make sure they are all straight and aligned then slowly drive up in LOW range and 1st gear. When up stop engine and leave in first and apply hand brake. Ideal for engine, gearbox, transfer box, diff oil changes, rust prevention etc . Can’t do things that require wheels off but does give so much more space. Plus they all pack away into a small space in shed or garage. Note: for first time use just use one set on front wheels so you get used to spacing them and driving up them. Perhaps with a helper to guide you. You can even drive half way up, stop, put in neutral, hand brake on and make sure it’s holding and get out to check all is ok. Then back in and complete assent. Just don’t go mad and go over them , noting you do feel when you reach the edge. The easy ups make this all work by the way.. this is still good for oil changes but not as good as using all four ramps. Once confident you can move onto using the fronts and rears at the same time and you have your truck up and level. |
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15th Apr 2020 5:50pm |
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| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3678 
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Any chance you have a pic of this set up in action Ian?
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15th Apr 2020 6:07pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2029
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I will find a some time over the next few days to take some pics of the ramps, easy ups and add dimensions, plus before and after pics of my 110 using the ramps. One advantage of being home full time now, with the sun shining
Ps my ramps are from different suppliers but the same length, this is key, as is making the easy ups the same lengths, otherwise the front and back wheels won’t be in the right place once on top of the ramps. |
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15th Apr 2020 7:44pm |
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| Devon-Rover Member Since: 22 Jan 2015 Location: South Devon Posts: 917 
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We all want the fully stocked workshop ( I don't even have a roof over my head) with all the toys but start off small and invest in what you need as you go along.
There is a few things that I find that are a go too tool, and then there is the more specialist but nice to have's that make the job easier. So I might state what you already have but I'll just ramble on 
The 52mm socket, 12point 1/2 AF socket, Viscous fan spanner and prop tool - 9/16 ring spanner, circlip pliers, grease gun, oil filter wrench, 1/2 torque wrench are great special tools to start with The Irwin bolt grip set is something sooner or later you will need where a landy is involved If you are going to be doing more than light tinkering I.e all your maintenance then Brake cleaner and Penetrating oil bulk (5 litres) with their own sprayers will be better than buying them in silly tins. Just like multipurpose grease that I get in 3kg tins. A good socket set. Doesn't have to cost the earth but nice fitting sockets do help on the job. I do though really enjoy a flex headed ratchet to make those harder to reach places easier especially when bolts are tight. Ratchets that come with a lot of set's are hardly nice in use so over time you can upgrade them. Start at 1/2 then 1/4 for those little jobs and before long a 3/8 kit has snuck in and you pick and choose depending on the job. One day you'll get the bolt that won't budge and you'll buy a 3/4 or 1'' drive A breaker bar for those tight one's doesn't have to be a 900mm monster but it helps Spanners, you can expand into flexi ratchet one's, longer ones, stubby ones, Brake flare nut ones, S shaped one's as time goes on but again nice ones mean less slippage and busted knuckles. A nice prybar will come in useful. Your gonna need a hammer, again a simple engineers (ball peen) hammer will start with then maybe a fancy anti vibe, a shot mallet has some uses, then a hide / copper is a bit more special but will have a use one day. To aid in hammering then a simple chisel and punch kit will have it's uses. jack and axle stands Are a necessity. Safety first. If you don't have a drill, impact gun, angle grinder etc then consider starting with a setup that gives you a common battery. A few makers do this and sharing batteries means you only have to worry about keeping one type charged. We all have our fav brands but if you aren't doing it full time then millwaulkee isn't going to be cost effective. for years I've run Royobi one plus stuff and whilst the gun isn't the meatiest it did the job after you cracked them off with the bar. It's time used versus cost. Running a 3/8 and 1/2 guns are nice time savers but it's cost / labour saving versus your time and pocket. Pop rivets and Rivnut tools are nice but again you'll know when you need them and you can buy them when the time demands Your going to face Electrical fun, so again you can do the basics with a simple multi meter and test light, then you can move into test probes. Wiring will then in time mean insulated and non insulated crimpers, strippers and soldering irons. Then one day you will purchase a battery terminal crimper for that one job. A good blow torch will come in handy one day for those stuck things that need a bit of heat. There is probably more but I like many have sheds full of occasional use tools that has accumulated over time Also can be found on Fb, Ytube, Insta & Twitter @4WDSouthwest |
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15th Apr 2020 7:55pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8050  
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Impact guns, I also like to feel, so only use them to undo. Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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15th Apr 2020 9:51pm |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039  
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I have the Milwaukee IPWE 400 RQ I went for a cable as I don't use it daily and I hate waiting on the battery charge. I know that a battery powered one is sometimes a bit easier. With a cable version you get more power for the money. Roel 1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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16th Apr 2020 5:55pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17442 
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Your comment caused me to check the specs of the corded and battery 1/2" wrenches from Milwaukee.
Corded, max torque 400 Nm Battery, max torque 610 Nm The battery one does seem to be about £40 more if you get it with a box, battery and charger though. |
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16th Apr 2020 6:59pm |
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| Devon-Rover Member Since: 22 Jan 2015 Location: South Devon Posts: 917
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and here is the pandora's box of impact gun comparisons. Every manufacturer has different one's and some more than one gun in the range it makes it tricky to pick a good one. But as above a gun isn't a necessary must have more of a pleasant labour saving device.
at the tender age of 18 I started the restoration of my IIA with an Elora socket set an cheapy spanner set, angle grinder, pop riveter and a mig welder. I think I borrowed a brake pipe flaring kit. The rest was history
Undoing stupidly seized bolts with the old 1 turn forward 3/4 turn back taught a lot about patience, Needless to say this time round the gun and a set of A/F impact sockets are gonna make it bliss to teardown.  Also can be found on Fb, Ytube, Insta & Twitter @4WDSouthwest |
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16th Apr 2020 7:49pm |
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| Pacha Member Since: 23 Feb 2020 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 772 
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The battery one’s have better torque - mine keeps charge for months without use. |
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16th Apr 2020 8:16pm |
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