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Tilo

Member Since: 10 Mar 2020
Location: UAE
Posts: 10

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black

20V on the central lock?

Hi,

Working my way to have a start/stop system installed on my 2009 Defender.
All good except for the central locking.
Found the trigger wires which go from the actuator to the green immobilizer box but when I plug the multimeter to the orange or pink wires from the driver door actuator, I get 20V. How can this be?
Does this sound silly?
The result is that the start/stop control unit signal is not powerful enough to trigger it. It makes a noise, but it seems it's not triggering.

12th Apr 2020 2:48pm

macfrank

Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 1105

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green

I'm not sure I understand what you're trying to achieve, but to measure the voltage the ECU applies to the door lock motors you need to measure *between* orange and pink. Polarity is switched one way to open and the other way to close.

12th Apr 2020 8:29pm

Tilo

Member Since: 10 Mar 2020
Location: UAE
Posts: 10

That’s right.
And the multimeter is going up to 20v when triggered.
Is the ECU supplying 20v to trigger the actuators?

Here’s the schematics of what I’m trying to connect.

12th Apr 2020 8:49pm

Tilo

Member Since: 10 Mar 2020
Location: UAE
Posts: 10

So, which one of these would be the right one to follow? If any...

13th Apr 2020 5:33am

Tilo

Member Since: 10 Mar 2020
Location: UAE
Posts: 10

Perhaps this?

How do I work the wires from the start/stop module to the ECU?
Is it:

Orange to black
White to orange
Yellow to yellow/pink
Orange/black to ground
White/black to pink
Yellow/black to +12V

Click image to enlarge

13th Apr 2020 6:15am

dorsetsmith

Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

outpit from AS10 alarm-CDL unit

pin on plugs

2 CDL lock output orange wire

3 CDL unlock output pink wire

7 driers sill input i.e. drivers door locked feed back

6 passengers sill input i.e.passengers door locked feed back the use of this input depends left hand or right hand drive

the door sill switch is switched to battery neg

13th Apr 2020 9:17am

Tilo

Member Since: 10 Mar 2020
Location: UAE
Posts: 10

Thanks but can you please specify which wire goes where?

13th Apr 2020 9:29am

Tilo

Member Since: 10 Mar 2020
Location: UAE
Posts: 10

So, an update...
It seems the problem was having the two systems in parallel.
Got it to work by cutting the orange and pink wires and connected them straight to the start/stop unit trigger wires.
Seems to be ok now but will do a bit more testing tomorrow.

Any reason why is not a good idea to remove the orange and pink wires from the green box (central locking unit)?

13th Apr 2020 4:59pm

macfrank

Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 1105

Sorry, couldn't reply earlier. I was about to say: it might not be a good idea to connect both your system and the original ECU. You're connecting two unknown circuits - could cause all sorts of troubles. Usually you would decouple circuits using diodes, optocouplers or relays. However, your system seems to be made to be connected to existing ones, given the various instructions for all types of CDLs. In theory

As to whether the 10AS will be alright without the CDL actuators: maybe someone else can say?
I would think it is simple enough and doesn't care. More "modern" ECUs should at least raise a trouble code as they're monitoring all sorts of actuator/sensor states.

13th Apr 2020 5:35pm

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