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LandymanStefan

Member Since: 30 Aug 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 881

Installing a hatch for Td5 Fuel pump access

Given the interest on the 'What did you do in you defender today' thread i though i'd make a write up of this mod.

This guide is for a TD5 90 - Im unsure of the dimensions for a 110

I got the information from a youtube video.

What i used:
200mm circular Marine port/Marine hatch.
Marker pen
Dremel + cutting blades
File
Tape measure and or large steel ruler.
M4 countersunk bolts, nylon washers and nuts OR Self tapping screws

To start with stand at the back door and mark these measurements:

From the left hand side seat box measure 410mm inwards and mark a couple of points and draw a vertical line (From brack to front of car)

From the start of the boot floor, not the rear crossmember but the actual boot floor measure and mark a couple of points 330mm up, then draw a horizontal line to cross the other line.

Cut a small diagonal square between the lines and you should see the fuel pump plug down the hole. This will confirm your measurements are correct.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

After this centre the marine port over the top and draw a circle round the inside circumference. (The outside of the the flange that goes down the hole would be better the the lip gets in the way so you cant mark it)

Then begin to cut a couple of MM outside of your circle youve drawn of the inside of the hole. This should be the perfects size for your port but in my case it was slightly too small but i found the dremel very precise and easy to nibble a couple of more mm away all the way round. In the end mine was a very nice tight friction fit.

Once youve cut the circle out youll probably find you cant lift it as there is a ally reinforcing piece dead centre of the boot running uptowards the front. Drill out the spot welds and remove the disc of the boot floor.

Once youve got the disc off youll have to cut the ally reinforcing piece out. Its fairly soft and thin and you could end up like this:

Click image to enlarge

As you can see i nibble the ally reinforcement bar out but retained the rivet into the horizontal reenforcing piece.

The horizontal bar is also in the way of the flange that has to go down the hole and is made out of steel so it genrates a lot of sparks when you try and cut it, i lined the hole with tin foil to try and minize loads of sparks pouring down the hole. You need to remove enough just to get the lip of the marine port in. This is how much i removed.

Click image to enlarge

Now even though the lip will fit in the hole you wont be able to screw the lid down because theres still too much of that steel bar in the way and the notches in the lid foul on it. I didnt want to remove any more material than necessary so i hammered it down a little bit and then the lid was free to go fully home.

Next up with the rim in place i drilled in the holes. I found it best to place holes on the line i drew at 12 and 6 o clock this made access for little bolts the best. I didnt drill the 12 hole as i couldnt get my fingers underneath to put a nut under there. If youre using self tappers this wont matter but i used 5 x M4 countersunk bolts and fitted nylon washers under the nuts to help prevent ally/steel corrosion.

I dressed all the edges then gave everything a couple of coats of paint for protection.

Click image to enlarge

Finally bolted it in place, greased the threads and o ring with silicone and i was happy with the result.
I Personally didnt seal it in but i never go wading and barely drive it in wet weather so ill see how it goes. If there is water ingress i can seal it in place at a later date. However it seems in a very shielded location and the plastic was a tight fit agains the ally.

Click image to enlarge

Finally heres the video i got my info from. I hope this helps!

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6th Apr 2020 10:51am

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