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hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2320 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Off topic but another excellent PDF saved for future reference ![]() Good luck solving your starting issue JBLancs > 110 XS Double Cab |
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Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6645 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
OK right,
Key will be tracing back where the black/orange goes to. LR seem to have messed about with this for whatever reason, on some 2.4 it's to the ECU and some the 10AS and I'm not clear on what years have it going where. But, first off, double/triple check that there isn't a hidden switch somewhere that a previous owner has fitted to cut this enable feed. As the ECU is allowing start then both the 10AS and the ECU are happy, so whichever of the ECU or 10AS does have control of the enable feed on your Defender should be doing it - which is why it might be a break in the enable feed (from a switch). If definitely no switch, then try and trace the black/orange. The 10AS is easier to see, remove the driver's side speaker and with a torch look through the hole at the green connector to the 10AS unit. The black/orange, if wired to the 10AS, would be on pin 10, bottom row as arrowed: ![]() If not then it's a case of removing the pigs of ECU connectors to check there ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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JBLancs Member Since: 17 Oct 2019 Location: Lancashire Posts: 40 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
So, I've been busy with other things today but I've had a quick look.
Its a works vehicle so I'm not as familiar with it as I am with my own Defenders. I have however found an odd push button on the steering column shroud. With the ignition on when the button is pressed I can hear a relay click in and then the ignition holds on? You can turn the ignition key to zero and remove it but the ignition is held on? Very strange, the only way to turn it off seemed to be to disconnect the battery? See button below: ![]() Click image to enlarge I had a look with the drivers side speaker out and well the photo will speak for itself!! ![]() Click image to enlarge I will have to do some more investigating and report back when I have a bit more time, there is all sorts up behind that speaker, there is also a grey plug pictured below but I don't think thats anything to do with it. Does any one have a photo of the 10AS unit and the green plug I am looking for? ![]() Click image to enlarge Thanks for your ongoing help, can and worms springs to mind with this one!! Also noticed whilst poking around that someone has linked out the terminals on the dim/dip relay and one of the terminals on the headlamp relay is burnt out, that would explain the temperamental headlights. You know that feeling when you wish you never started a job ... |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17626 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
That suggests to me that a runlock system is fitted. See if the ignition goes off if you press the brake or clutch with the key out.
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JBLancs Member Since: 17 Oct 2019 Location: Lancashire Posts: 40 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Ahh that would make sense I believe that this is an Ex - Electricity Board vehicle so would probably have been so that they could run aux equipment without the keys in. Could this have anything to do with my starting woes or is it a red herring?
PS anyone know how to switch off the runlock without disconnecting the battery? Please forgive my ignorance, this is all new to me ![]() |
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JBLancs Member Since: 17 Oct 2019 Location: Lancashire Posts: 40 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Sorry Blackwolf, that is what you suggested isn't it? to see if the brake or clutch turns off the runlock?
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JBLancs Member Since: 17 Oct 2019 Location: Lancashire Posts: 40 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
So today I have had a bit more of a poke around, as Blackwolf suggested the brake pedal turns off the runlock system.
I have located the black/orange wire in the green plug on the 10AS unit and it is as Martin said on pin 10 (thank goodness I don't need to go poking around in the ECU plugs). Not had any luck finding a switch in the enable wire but I have found all sorts of other stuff up behind the speaker, I'll post a few photos. Thoughts and comments welcome. ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17626 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
It is possible that a malfunctioning runlock system could cause starting issues. Incidentally turning the ignition on with the key will also usually reset the runlock. Your last photo is the runlock.
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JBLancs Member Since: 17 Oct 2019 Location: Lancashire Posts: 40 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I would much rather solve my current problem first but I feel that life would be so much easier without all of these added systems. I have all ready previously about 18 months ago ripped out meters and meters of wiring from this vehicle which was for a diesel heater, hand wash system in the back, flashing beacons etc I know the standard wiring isn't perfect but at least you have diagrams to work from all this added wiring is just a guessing game as to what other people have done?
I know its pretty hard for you guys to comment but would it be a complicated job to remove all of this now unnecessary nonsense? Like I say at this stage I'd rather just get the vehicle working I don't want to make the situation worse! ![]() |
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JBLancs Member Since: 17 Oct 2019 Location: Lancashire Posts: 40 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
To update this thread I got a local auto electrician to cast his eye over it explaining to him what I had found out, he agreed that the fault must lie with the 10AS unit so it was removed and sent down to a bloke in Brighton who repaired and tested the unit. It is now installed back in the vehicle and working perfectly. Thanks everyone for all your help.
Cheers |
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