 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Ball joint taper reamer ? |
 
|
|
|
| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1845  
|
(While we live in uncertain times I think I'll do my bit for Defender2 society by keeping up my stream of daft questions....!?)
I've just fitted anti-roll bars, front and rear, on my old 110. Partly because I've been doing some "tuning" work, and might want to feel the benefits in the twisty roads around here. Nearest motorway is about 110 miles away. Partly also because I have a roof tent on during the warmer months and I hope it will help counteract that weight up top. However, while my axles had the mounts for ARBs, they hadn't ever been used, so the holes for the ball joints weren't in any sense pristine. I did my best to clean them out with various implements, files and sandpaper etc. They might be "OK" and might improve as time goes on. But it did strike me that it would be ideal to get hold of a tapered reamer with the right angles. I did google, but most of the results were from the USA. Presumably others must have been here. What's the solution? Or what's the specification on the taper itself? Ta (Edit - further googling comes up with 7 degree taper reamers - is this the right spec?? It is over £60 even on ebay though  ) Donald
1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
||
15th Mar 2020 8:17pm |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17419  
|
When I went through the same process as you I concluded that the taper is approx 1:10. I cleaned my tapers with one or other of the the following (sorry, I can't remember which, but you can measure the hole), which I just happened to have anyway:-
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/hand-reamer-bits/0456917/ https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/hand-reamer-bits/0456894/ Whilst the RS Components spec sheet doesn't state the taper, it seemed to be just about spot on. A 7 degree taper would be about 1:8, so it is possible that both the holes and my reamers are 7 degree. It is incredibly hard to measure accurately. If you do clean the holes with a reamer, be careful not to make them oversize, since if the pin becomes loose in the hole you are largely stuffed! In practice as long as you can get the pin sufficiently far into the hole to get the nut on, it doesn't really s.matter how clean or otherwise the hole i. Last edited by blackwolf on 15th Mar 2020 8:35pm. Edited 1 time in total |
||
|
15th Mar 2020 8:29pm |
|
| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1845
|
Thanks very much. I did actually just find the thread where you'd posed the same question.... my earlier searching obviously hadn't been up to par.
I'll check out those links. I think, in three out of four, I've managed to get things OK for a first fit, one of them doesn't fit too well at this stage. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
||
|
15th Mar 2020 8:32pm |
|
| Thon Member Since: 22 Nov 2015 Location: Salisbury Plain Posts: 696
|
One thing you could have tried would be to use the taper of one of the ball joints as the reamer with the application of some lapping paste - it would obviously be the correct taper and the lapping paste would grind away the rust. I would think the rust would grind away before you did any significant damage to the joint.
You would just need a method of turning the taper - but I would think that the castellated nut with a split pin would do it? |
||
|
15th Mar 2020 9:11pm |
|
| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1845
|
Yeah - I had the same sort of idea about using the balljoint itself, and tried wrapping sandpaper around an old one. That was useless!
I then thought I could dismantle a balljoint and cut slots into it (like you would with a bolt to clean threads) but I've never used lapping paste, so it hadn't occurred to me. I reckon you could use a dismantled ball joint with the paste - maybe drill a hole through the bottom, or grind some flats onto it to allow it to be turned. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
||
|
15th Mar 2020 9:56pm |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17419
|
You could weld a nut on the bottom of the ball of a dismantled joint, and spin it with a power tool.
Options, option, so many options......... |
||
|
15th Mar 2020 10:25pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
