 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Right, undersealing! Sorry but..... |
 
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5035   
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Obviously the underside needs to be clean
I know Mr Dinitrol will be on shortly - but i prefer waxoyl - but used in the right way - there are the three types...black tin is underbody seal, maintly the exterior - certainly the high traffic impact areas. Yellow stuff is really low traffic and internal sections and obviously the stone chip guard (i applied under the main coat in high impact areas Removing wheels etc is good...cover key components if your doing that and spraying and its your first time. I didnt cover any part on my last defenders and got 0 oversparay Helps if you can raise all the defender (not essential) then if you can get one end higher great. I paint with a bursh the underbody seal - takes 1/2 a day to a day to do that properly when you know how on a 90. Then the compressor to go over all the other hard to reach external sections - i deliberately overspray the hand painted painted section again 1/2 a day to a day Tip on ALL of it - heating it up is needed, sun heat is the best, but any form (hot water bucket is another one) i add a cap of white spirit in no more, colder you may need more For internatl sections, common sense really - a carity spray is useful, i had a lot of success with the hand pump waxoyl tool - just aim for every hole you can see on the chassis in a systematic way. Note the circular cross member - outriggers and rear cross member. Take the front bumper off and get in the front of the chassis There are 4 holes at the bottom of the bulkhead (2 outside, 2 inside) you can stick your probe up and give it a hudge spray - you can also remove the top bolt on the door (whilst closed and insert your probe there) WIndscreen bungs out an get involved there Get in above the tank and around the top of the gear box/tbox etc Engine bay there are some access challenges - especially with a brush but it can all be done Various bits you can remove i cant recall - but be systematic with nice warm flowing fluid (either spray and paint). Expect to revisit the car after a day or so and fill in the gaps you have missed. Leave it to dry for a day or so - be prepared with a mask - WD40 removes it from you just as well as a car 
Just take you time, be methodical and think about the different areas. Mike |
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22nd Jul 2011 11:41am |
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| MuddyMarky Member Since: 01 Feb 2010 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 548 
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Mike,
great answer, thank you. Pretty much exactly what I'd hoped for  I assumed a common sense approach would serve me well, but its good to get tips etc from someone who's done the job.
I've looked at some kits that are available (Dinitrol kits really) and wondered what the bungs are for? Are they to replace the original ones, or to plug holes up that shouldn't get the sealant in them? Mark 2011 110 XS DC Stornoway Grey |
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22nd Jul 2011 12:39pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 
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I think I've just lost the will to live
I've done loads and have posted up some examples of rustproofing various vehicles in the past, I think there's still one in the tech archive on LR4x4. The most important thing is to use a bit of common sense, keep the stuff away from sensitive components such as some kinds of rubber etc. I gave up heating he stuff [used to use a tin with a kettle element let into the bottom] as the stuff cools down as soon as it leaves the gun anyway - nowadays I just thin to suit the product and ambient temp.
Make sure the vehicle is as clean and dry as possible. Get the vehicle up on axle stands, wheels off, plastic bags tied over the hubs to protect the brakes. Mask off other bits you don't want to cover [for example the exhaust up at the hot end]. Wear goggles, mask, hood or hat and a boiler suit and work methodically around the vehicle and once you've done that go over it again from another direction and so on. To do a proper job will take a while but the time gets less the more vehicles you have done. Steve. Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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22nd Jul 2011 12:44pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Here you go Mark the link to the correct Dinitrol kit £97 +vat , they will also give a work sheet for a 110 if you ask
http://www.rejel.com/rejel-store/list/1/productid/9408.aspx It also comes with a can of acid rust convertor to just treat any bits that are starting to go before you plaster it all. Takes 2/3 hours max, no need to heat anything up, jack anything up or take wheels off etc. The sprays are pretty accurate. Took me half an hour each side underneath and then doors pillars etc on top. As others have said max 2 hours really
Waxoyl, as said from an earlier posters experience can bubble and ripple some rubbers, plastics (He ruined his new door seal before he stopped  ) so there is less need to be concerned about what you are spraying with Dinitrol. I made my tyres and my fathers tarmac driveway bubble when I used the stuff first 15 years ago  but fortunately it went down but my rubber door seals didn't on a the SAAB . Doing a quick google will show you that Waxoyl is now a dated product in tests compared to what is on the market now See Practical Classics test where Dinitrol comes out best and hear for the Bilt Hamer test
http://www.bilthamber.com/pro-introduction.php?cname=Corrosion Prevention&name=dynax S50 I have linked to some before - practical classic test being one off the top of my head. One draw back is that it can simply slide down the sides in hot weather not covering anything in wax just white spirits - this has all be well known for years amongst those within the classic car scene... It's a satisfying and easy job, you will work out what to avoid when you are underneath, trickier jobs are sealing windows which is best left to your local fitter - very messy and fiddly. Last edited by Zagato on 23rd Jul 2011 7:20am. Edited 5 times in total |
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22nd Jul 2011 1:12pm |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5035
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talk about stating the bleeding obvious 
In answer - just ignore the rubber bungs - serve no point. Your looking to warm not heat the stuff and its dead simple to do unless your waxoyling in the artic. The sun keeps it thin and meands you get good coverage I hear a few points about waxoyl ruining rubber - if you want to see my discovery (where not giving a sh*t when spraying) you will see it doesnt hurt the rubber
As zag does mention, there isnt a need to jack anything - but it makes like easy...and keeps you cleaner Mike |
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22nd Jul 2011 1:12pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Pass me your wooden spoon MOG |
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22nd Jul 2011 1:26pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471
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That may be so it's sometimes a requirement around here  Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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22nd Jul 2011 1:35pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Ah that's to good an answer
Your no fun MOG  I'm going to read my book now  |
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22nd Jul 2011 1:40pm |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5035
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usually for the more simple of folk Mike |
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22nd Jul 2011 1:57pm |
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| The Boy Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: East Northants Posts: 1459 
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I always do my own.
there are a couple of photos on this thread i think. http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic1685.html?highlight=underseal |
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22nd Jul 2011 4:49pm |
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| MuddyMarky Member Since: 01 Feb 2010 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 548
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Thanks for all the advice chaps. Last question then* - how long does it last for, or do most of you just check it a couple/few times a year and 'touch up' where needed?
*this might not be an entirely true statement Mark 2011 110 XS DC Stornoway Grey |
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22nd Jul 2011 7:26pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471
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Lots of variables involved there as it depends on what you've used and kind of use the vehicle has had. Check exposed areas that are likely to get abrasion once a year at the end of the summer and before winter sets in will usually suffice. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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22nd Jul 2011 10:05pm |
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| double cab happy Member Since: 01 Jun 2009 Location: merseyside Posts: 573  
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well i have a couple of jars with a paint brush let in through the lid and then full of black or clear waxoyl, that way i can just touch up whan i see a spot, full job seems to need doing once a year, well thats my time table.
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22nd Jul 2011 10:07pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
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Waxoyl have said every two years for their "original" cavity wax stuff. I think some Waxoyl applying businesses guarantee for 4 or 5 years but that maybe for the under-seal stuff which is stronger. When I used it I had to re do it every year. It's all dependent on the type of use the vehicle gets, for example Dinitrol say that if you are wading regularly the cavity wax should be done every two years and the under-seal could need a touch up every year. They suggested for my type of use ordinary road use that I wouldn't have to do anything for 4/5 years.
There are other products on the market, Bilt Hamer for instance which similar to Dinitrol is used by car manufacturers, Somebody said Porsche use Bilt Hamer. They have also done a test on the various products - Waxoyl came out last again. See hear & scroll down http://www.bilthamber.com/pro-introduction.php?cname=Corrosion Prevention&name=dynax S50 The very best thing to do is paint with POR-15 which will protect your chassis externally, axles etc for life. It's marvelous stuff http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-paint/po...paint.html but obviously can take a couple of days to do properly. I did mine over a week due to neck ache then sprayed in the Dinitrol cavity wax and under-seal, shame it was all nice and shiny from the paint then it got plastered in Dintrol but protection is more important than a shiny bottom
I'll copy this from another thread so we don't have to keep repaeating it all in the future - can just put a link to this thread
Spray the underside (nooks and crannies, as said!) relevant mechanicals and use the extension nozzle for the chassis insides, rear cross-member, door pillars, bulkhead front and inside, doors, etc, and other sprays, sealants for under ALL the capping's, between the body joins e.g. window and bulkhead seals, main body and sides, sides and roof. Also around the unpainted rivets, front window hinges, bonnet hinges, gutter seams, mirror arms, rear window catches, wiper arm exit points, both water jets, lower ali front panel, steps etc etc and do the interior seat frames/brackets that rust from the outset any nut's bolts you can see and those under the carpets etc and lower seat belt fixing as they can rust within the year! and in and around the bottom rivets holding the lower door seals in place under the rubber etc (not with Waxoyl though it will ripple them out of shape!), headlight rims, and all the external front screws etc etc Oh and door hinges, under the bonnet, cylinders, brackets, electrics, common rail etc etc, avoiding the belt and pulleys! Too much to detail but it's simply a case of going around the vehicle methodically and either using an underbody anti-rust stuff for bit's you won't see e.g. Dinitrol and stuff like Wurth Anti Corrosion Wax & ACF-50 for the bits you do (one remains a wax the other remains greasy!) & a windscreen sealant and a pot of Dum Dum will see you right for everything else. Where to put some Dum Dum, sealants etc are listed in the Water Ingress Manual https://www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/us...cedure.pdf It's a satisfying job as well Just need to get underneath down and dirty and I suggest you wear a mask and overalls. Window sealant is best done by your local window fitter as it's a messy tricky job
You don't have to do any of this of course but you will have water sitting under your window rubbers rotting away unseen, probable leaks and rusting of pretty well everything underneath the body - not a problem if you are not going to keep the vehicle long term of course. The Defender is the only LR in the range that is NOT undersealed for protection! To summarize this kit http://www.rejel.com/rejel-store/list/1/productid/9408.aspx and a couple of cans of this http://www.acf-50.co.uk/acf50.htm and call in your local window fitter to seal your windows will do the job Can be done in day
_________________ 2011 Defender 110 XS, Elektra 1962 IIA 109" daily drive, Ursula 1968 IIA 88" rebuild, Domino 1962 SAAB 96 2 Stroke Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  |
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23rd Jul 2011 7:05am |
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