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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4206

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Anyone good at DIY car body painting?
I’m about to have ago at DIY respraying a car door. Is it OK to spray acrylic base colour coat directly onto acid etch primer, or do I need regular primer in between? 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #811895 25th Jan 2020 3:27pm
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grafty99



Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
Location: North Devon
Posts: 4785

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Caledonian Blue
It'll be fine, however if it's been repaired then I'd definitely high build prime it first Thumbs Up 2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE
Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200
Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html
Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html
RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html
Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton
Post #811902 25th Jan 2020 3:45pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20339

United Kingdom 
Direct to etch primer will use more paint too as it will absorb more. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #811904 25th Jan 2020 3:47pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4206

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
It has been repaired so there is bare metal and filler to cover. So if I go etch primer, the high build, then rub it back before the base coat? 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #811907 25th Jan 2020 3:54pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello Bluest

100% use a regular primer (or high build primer if the door needs some flattening out) some (not all)
acid etch primers are not best friends with some top coats and need to see some 'normal' primer first.

When your primer is dry, key the surface before the top coat with minimum 400grit wet & dry (pressing lightly)
or if primer looks good and even a 600 grit will be ok. Avoid touching skin to primer, maybe use gloves and if in
doubt a final clean with panel wipes before top coat spraying is a good idea. Lots of how to videos on line...
Is your acrylic base coat all you need or are you applying a clear coat finish (lacquer) Question

Good Luck... SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #811910 25th Jan 2020 3:58pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4206

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Thanks for the tips. It's metallic base with clear lacquer over it. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #811916 25th Jan 2020 4:20pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Sounds good...

Only other observation at this time of year is that cold and moisture will be a factor
if they get near your project, even bringing the door (if it's off the vehicle) into a heated
house over night so it's not cold to the touch before returning to the best 'outside' space
you have will help...but maybe I'm guessing too much now Confused

Still remembering the first bicycle I sprayed over winter (with an airbrush compressor)
in my bedroom, when I was 12 using thinned down enamel... dad was Thumbs Up mum was Shocked SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #811919 25th Jan 2020 4:44pm
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grafty99



Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
Location: North Devon
Posts: 4785

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Caledonian Blue
If metallic base then absolutely minimum 600 grit when prepping the primer. Anything less will sink back and show up in the metallic once cleared and cured Thumbs Up 2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE
Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200
Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html
Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html
RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html
Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton
Post #811920 25th Jan 2020 4:56pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4206

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Luckily I've an attached garage with a heater and the door is not on the car so I can work in the warm.

I'm going to try with LVLP gun on a 50l Chinese compressor. I've no idea what the rated CFM is so who knows if it'll be up to the job. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #811922 25th Jan 2020 4:57pm
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grafty99



Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
Location: North Devon
Posts: 4785

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Caledonian Blue
Make sure you have a good drier/oil separator in, preferably just after the compressor Thumbs Up 2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE
Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200
Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html
Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html
RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html
Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton
Post #811923 25th Jan 2020 5:03pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Bluest wrote:
I'm going to try with LVLP gun on a 50l Chinese compressor.
I've no idea what the rated CFM is so who knows if it'll be up to the job.


You should be OK with a 50Ltr Compressor... the key thing is to let it recover if you
are really getting the paint down. Do all the tricky bits first, edges, returns etc and mist
coat the whole door then get your coverage down.

As for what you need... this is a rough guide, anywhere between 40-90 PSI with
air consumed (CFM) of between 4-15



It's more subtle that this in reality, a heavy primer (not thinned enough) will take more
pressure to shift than a balanced thinned top coat, with some trial and 'error' (adjustment)
and you'll get there, drain any water created out of the compressor periodically, I find the
best approach is to get it up to pressure and get on with it, being aware of any drop off
in pressure and then pause momentarily.

I used a small 24Ltr Compressor that proved up to applying Dinitrol to the Defender and
for small area work, even ok for colour coding a spare wheel when I eventually tracked
one down...


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


Good Luck SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #811926 25th Jan 2020 5:35pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4206

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
I’ve got a new gun, water trap, filter and fresh hose coming to make sure everything is clean. Thumbs Up

I’m looking forward to doing this. There’s no rush to get the job done, so if it doesn’t go right I can keep trying. As I understand it, the LVLP guns should be happy with 20 to 30 psi. I’m a bit confused in what nozzle size I need, they seem to come with 1.3, 1.4 and 1.8 options. The data sheet for the paints just give recommendations for HVLP, I don’t know if it is the same for LVLP or not, guess I’ll find out. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #811954 25th Jan 2020 8:09pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
If in doubt go for mid range settings and sizes and adjust accordingly,
most of us only really learn by doing, sounds like you've prepared well

There will need to be photos now Exclamation with no orange peel Shocked SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #811962 25th Jan 2020 8:38pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4206

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
I’ll be happy with orange peel, knowing me it’ll either end up like the surface of the moon or an Artex ceiling. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #811976 25th Jan 2020 9:38pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Post #811979 25th Jan 2020 10:11pm
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