 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Central Locking retrofit question. |
 
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| 24heuer Member Since: 21 Jul 2015 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 167   
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Hi all,
I had the wiring for central locking and electric windows tucked away in the door pillars so just installed and connected up the in-door c/l components to the front doors this afternoon - genuine L/R door looms, actuators and rods etc. I didn't expect anything to happen with the fob until I get my 10AS modified but I was half expecting the passenger door lock to operate when I unlock/lock the driver's door with the key. Does this sound right at all? Probably a stupid question but..do I need to get the 10AS modified before any of it will work? Many thanks, Cheers, Andy... Edinburgh, Scotland http://24heuer.com |
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5th Jan 2020 2:28pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1780  
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I can't remember exactly, but IIRC the power for the main unit in the drivers door comes from the 10AS. I used a remote mounted central locking relay off ebay to power mine, but the pcb is the same for central or non central locking units so if you can get a relay off a scrap disco or similar, the mods are pretty easy.
You can even remove the 10AS through the speaker grill if you've the patience. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Central-Locking...2749.l2649 HTH keith |
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5th Jan 2020 7:27pm |
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| 24heuer Member Since: 21 Jul 2015 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 167
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Thanks for the reply Keith.
It makes sense that I need power from the 10AS to activate the solenoids in the actuators. I incorrectly thought it was 'always on' but looks like I do need to get the 10AS modified. I'm not confident enough to add the relay myself without stuffing up the circuit board completely 
So, I guess I'll remove it and send it to these guys to do for me - https://www.technozen-electronics.co.uk/la...-services/ While it's away, no 10AS means I can't drive it right? Thanks, Cheers, Andy... Edinburgh, Scotland http://24heuer.com |
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6th Jan 2020 7:45am |
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| 24heuer Member Since: 21 Jul 2015 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 167
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cool, thanks for that
I think I'll remove the 10AS and send it away - turnaround seems pretty quick. Do you know if I can get to both screws through the speaker hole or do I need to remove the instrument cluster etc. also? Thanks, Cheers, Andy... Edinburgh, Scotland http://24heuer.com |
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6th Jan 2020 12:26pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1780
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stubby torx screwdriver and a bit of groping around to remove and the same with blutac to refit
good luck! |
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6th Jan 2020 6:13pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1780
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There was a link to a video / set of instructions somewhere on here done by a Swedish? gent that showed in detail how to do it, the hard part is removing the 10AS - everything else is easy.
Be worth putting an internal +ve and -ve from the battery to the alarm whilst its in pieces - another layer if the external battery earth is cut, alarm will still work. HTH Keith |
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6th Jan 2020 6:17pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1780
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Yer 'tis!
https://la7dja.org/defender/cdl/ |
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6th Jan 2020 6:24pm |
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| 24heuer Member Since: 21 Jul 2015 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 167
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Thanks
Good tip - So now I need a stubby ratchet drive
I can see the right hand screw but I can’t even feel the one on the left - I guess it’ll be fun locating it. There seems to be a big bit of black plastic in the way - looks like the dash was built round the flippin 10AS 😂 Cheers, Andy... Edinburgh, Scotland http://24heuer.com |
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6th Jan 2020 7:06pm |
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| chrisc2306 Member Since: 02 Jan 2020 Location: Glasgow Posts: 60 
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Hi mate I've just finished doing this and done a wee write up about it here. Not sure if it'll be any use to you because you used land rover actuators but I hope it helps
https://www.defender2.net/forum/post809336.html#809336 |
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8th Jan 2020 12:11pm |
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| 24heuer Member Since: 21 Jul 2015 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 167
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Cheers m8,
I just removed my 10AS. Usual carry-on, shouting and swearing until I discovered that if you remove the steering column top/bottom covers (and the wheel), the left hand bolt is right in front of you and can be removed with a normal length drive
 Cheers,
Andy... Edinburgh, Scotland http://24heuer.com Last edited by 24heuer on 10th Jan 2020 11:01am. Edited 1 time in total |
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8th Jan 2020 1:45pm |
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| macfrank Member Since: 05 Nov 2015 Location: somewhere in the north Posts: 1076  
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I read both write-ups just out of interest
While a direct connection to 10AS's PCB seems to work, I'd rather use a relay. If your CDL for some reason draws more than 500mA, it might fry the ULN2003 driver. This is just a 50p. part but would need to be soldered out. And if you're very unlucky the ASIC gets damaged (the driver is not a fuse after all and may live long enough to let a high current pass for a while; ask me how I know (albeit not a 10AS but other expensive ICs)  ). But maybe that's just engineer's paranoia |
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9th Jan 2020 7:44pm |
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| 24heuer Member Since: 21 Jul 2015 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 167
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Hi MacFrank,
Thanks, but I’m not sure your comment is relevant to my post - I have no intention of taking a soldering iron to my 10AS - I”m way too terrified
In fact it’s currently at Technozen getting modded right now Cheers,
Andy... Edinburgh, Scotland http://24heuer.com |
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9th Jan 2020 10:34pm |
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| macfrank Member Since: 05 Nov 2015 Location: somewhere in the north Posts: 1076
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I was referring to the to links posted above. If you had read them and seen it was just two solder joints, you might have become brave enough and considered this solution  |
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10th Jan 2020 10:57am |
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| 24heuer Member Since: 21 Jul 2015 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 167
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All working
10AS modded by Paul @ Technozen - super fast turnaround by the way - no idea how he did that so quick. Also included for £58 were 2 new fobs 
Reinstallation was a doddle now that the steering wheel and upper/lower covers were removed (5 minute job) - Left hand screw right in front using a bit of blu-tac on the end of the normal length drive to hold the screw to the torx bit, right hand screw up through the speaker hole using a stubby driver. Only collateral damage was a couple of door fasteners - luckily I planned for this and had a few spares on standby. Now I know the fronts are working, I'll tackle the rear side doors soon - the wiring's in the door pillars already so I might as well. Thanks everyone that commented and suggested different things  Cheers,
Andy... Edinburgh, Scotland http://24heuer.com |
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12th Jan 2020 9:31am |
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