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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298   
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I believe there's a line of thought out there that it's best to drain the engine while its nice and warm so it drains into the sump better ie you get to leave less engine oil in the engine etc.
well I'd argue the opposite. I'm just about to change the oil and was going to go for a drive to warm the engine and the do the change but then it occurred to me that the last time my def got parked up the engine was ward and hence all the oil will have dropped in to the sump then. so it should all be in the sump ready to go - granted the last bit in the very bottom of the sump will be a bit slower ...... or have I missed something? |
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30th Nov 2019 1:08pm |
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| grafty99 Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: North Devon Posts: 4785  
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I think the idea is that warm oil flows quicker, so you get more oil out in a given time frame. If its been sat for a day or two then all of the oil that is going to drain into the sump is already there
I usually take the sump plug out then go and have a cuppa, it's usually just the odd drip left by then 2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200 Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton |
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30th Nov 2019 1:26pm |
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| Bows Member Since: 07 May 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 513  
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That makes perfect sense to me, i’ll try it next time.
2006 TD5110 station wagon
1995 300Tdi 90 truck cab 1989 90 hard top with 200 tdi 1983 110 hard top 1983 110 Hi cap 1954 107 pick up |
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30th Nov 2019 1:59pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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it makes sense to me too and hence that's what I've just done.....well my eldest daughter
on the time thing - well my immediate reaction would be to agree but when you consider the time taken to go for a drive (plus wasted fuel) and then the possibility of burning yourself on the exhaust or the oil itself my 'new found' idea seems make ever more sense. doing it this way certainly limits the risks of my daughter doing it
regardless we've still come in for a cuppa while the last drops drip out  |
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30th Nov 2019 2:09pm |
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| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2227 
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Once you switch the warm engine off it takes only a couple of minutes for the oil to drain back into the sump. So you'll drain all of that oil but more quickly and throughly since warm oil is less sticky than cold.
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. 50 Shades of Pennine Grey |
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30th Nov 2019 2:32pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17382 
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More likely to get any contaminants and crud out after a run since it will be in suspension not separated out, and the faster flow out of the sump will help carry it out.
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30th Nov 2019 9:59pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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/\ like that idea BW.
I would sincerely hope there's no contaminants in my sump tho  |
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30th Nov 2019 10:14pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2645 
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There’s loads - why do you think we have to change the oil?
I always just do the service after coming back from somewhere, that way it’s warm but no ‘wasted’ journey required. |
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1st Dec 2019 8:30am |
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| Wild Card 90 Member Since: 03 Dec 2014 Location: Gerlingen Posts: 1060 
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Your not wrong, Caterham. However, I think the “warm oil” school of thought refers to the fact that what you shouldn’t do is restart a cold engine before an oil change. As stated, after the last longer (more than 1/2 hour) trip, the oil has drained back in to the sump, and will happily drain off through the drain plug. However if you restart the engine, in order to position it for the oil-change (drive into the workshop or onto a ramp), the still cold oil will be re-distributed through the engine, head, valve gear and suchlike, and take a while to return to the sump, giving you a less than ideal oil-change.
Additionally, the contaminants (bearing wear, carbon, unburned fuel and most important, condensation) are better mixed and emulsified in the oil in the sump when the engine been fully warmed up and run at speed beforehand. Alone from that point of view, draining a freshly run and thoroughly warmed up engine is definitely the way to go. 1998 Tdi 90 SW, 2008 Td4 90 SW, 2012 2.2 90 SW, 2" raised Trailmaster/Terrafirma Heavy Track Raids, 255 MTs, Recaro CSs, anorak, wellingtons |
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1st Dec 2019 11:29am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8029  
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I have always done an engine oil change after a drive, its warm, less viscous and takes everything out with it.
why would you do it cold? Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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1st Dec 2019 8:12pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295 
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Hello Caterham
You could always measure both options... if you where sure you where starting from the same position, difficult as it would be as accurate as reading the dip stick... 
But the quantity of oil extracted whilst one measure... I think it's the quality of the oil drained that is the most important, and I agree with the 'consensus' that the 'drain when hot method' will be better as it will hold more of the contaminants in suspension than its cold equivalent. I run until at a normal operating temperature and then (more or less) drain immediately. I have never used a flush additive, preferring relatively low mileage, (more frequent) oil changes. With the oil being at around 250 degrees I have considered fitting a Limora Drain Plug and Run Off Hose (the valve self opens when the hose is attached) this I think would make life a bit easier. I'm currently working my way through a box of X10 LR OEM drainplugs that were 'gifted' to me, and whilst I have my technique more or less in place, there is always the chance of the odd spill... 
I think I will get round to fitting one of these... 
SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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2nd Dec 2019 10:29am |
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| MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2665 
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+1 for the FEMCO Oil drain. Makes the drain lots less messy, and quicker, especially for the DIY'er (there have been stories of garages removing the FEMCO rather than using the drain tube)
Also agree that the warm (just run) engine is supposed to help any nasties stay in suspension, and not sunken to the bottom in any oil catchment areas. Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
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2nd Dec 2019 11:09am |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4209 
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My view is that it actually probably makes practically no difference. Whichever method isn’t going to get all the oil out, and any remnants will make up only tiny perecentage after refill, especially in a Defender with such a big oil capacity. Hot may speed the process a bit, but unless the car has been stood for weeks, I would not expect doing it cold to be an inferior method. As we know, of much more importance is the use of good oil, good filter and to do it regularly. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
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2nd Dec 2019 11:19am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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we did it cold the other day. I took it for a drive afterwards and the engine didn't blow up so, so far so good
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2nd Dec 2019 11:48am |
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