 | Home > Advanced Factors > Torque Settings |
 
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| Advanced Factors Site Sponsor Member Since: 06 Jun 2013 Location: Southampton Posts: 178   
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Work in progress.....
During the next few weeks we will endeavour to complete new sections giving popular Torque Setting information, some models already done. For example: 
Chassis tightening torques (Refer to Engine Sections for engine torques) Front hub (Replace Nut) 1)30 Nm 2)210 Nm Rear hub (Replace Nut) 1)30 Nm 2)210 Nm Steering wheel 43 Nm Steering box mounting 80 Nm Steering track rod end 40 Nm Steering box drop arm 175 Nm Brake disc to hub screw Front 73 Nm Apply locking fluid. Brake caliper/carrier to hub Front 82 Nm Brake disc to hub screw Rear 73 Nm Apply locking fluid. Brake caliper/carrier to hub Rear 82 Nm Road wheels Steel wheels = 105 Nm Heavy duty wheels = 170 Nm Alloy wheels = 170 Nm Lightly coat mating surfaces between wheel centre hole and hub (use copper anti-seize grease). Do NOT lubricate studs or nuts. Paul Redding +44 (0)23 8052 2760 www.advancedfactors.co.uk Site Sponsor for Aftermarket Parts |
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10th Feb 2017 4:29pm |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816  
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Be careful with those numbers. Here are the by LR recommended torque numbers for the Puma 2.4. Also printed in my user manual.
Now, I know there has been some later discussion that alloys also require 170Nm for later model years of the Puma 2.2, but I am not sure that that number is correct. Not sure why torque numbers for same wheels on same model trucks would suddenly increase from the Puma 2.4 to the 2.2. Sounds more that the 170Nm recommendation for alloys (same as the correct number for the HD Wolfs) for the most recent Puma 2.2 model years is a mere misprint. If I remember correct, the question about this sudden appearance of 170Nm for Defender alloys was asked to be clarified in a question to Land Rover Customer Relations. Don't remember exactly the name of the person there at that time because there was such a quick succession of people in that function, but one thing is for sure, LRCR never responded to that question. 
Now, additionally, I do not think that copper slip is the ideal lubricant for all wheels. It surely is ok for steel wheels on steel hubs, but there are better neutral greases for alloys on steel hubs. Alloys on steel hubs are already two different metals, copper slip would be a third one. For that purpose I think it is better to use ceramic grease which is metal free and so forms a real barrier between two different metals. Also read the below. http://members5.boardhost.com/ukautotalk2/thread/1256568010.html http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic36426....mic+grease Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw Last edited by ericvv on 10th Feb 2017 6:33pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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10th Feb 2017 4:39pm |
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7906 
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Useful to have a list of torque settings specific to each model, well done.
Just need to make sure its correct 
Very knowledgeable Eric, a concern well worth raising, thank you  James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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10th Feb 2017 6:17pm |
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| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5110  
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just looked in a Haynes manual and it suggests the following:
Steel wheels 108 Nm or 80 lbf ft Alloy wheels 130 Nm or 96 lbf ft. For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at.. http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1 |
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22nd Mar 2017 6:44pm |
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| Mash Member Since: 09 Feb 2015 Location: Guernsey Posts: 1674  
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Excellent idea I have just started to make a list for my rebuild trawling through the manuals. 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html 110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html 52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html D3 Hse - Fiona Capri 2l S - Anna Think I might have a problem............ |
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22nd Mar 2017 6:57pm |
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| apt100 Member Since: 05 Mar 2015 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 1547 
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For the record, MY2012 and later owners books (online at Topix) give 170Nm for alloys.
The MY2011 has a single figure of 133Nm and doesn't differentiate between steel/alloy. Click image to enlarge |
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22nd Mar 2017 8:31pm |
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| ARC99 Member Since: 19 Feb 2013 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1831 
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It is strange that this topic has come up, an ex work colleague rang yesterday to let me know that he has had a problem with a Dealer after his Defender went in for a service. Seven out of twenty wheel studs sheared when they torqued up the wheel nuts up to 170Nm . I won't go into details this is just a warning. Don't make old people mad.
We don't like being old in the first place, so it doesn't take much to  us off.
Richard |
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23rd Mar 2017 10:37am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17387 
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it sound odd to say this, but I reckon he's a lucky man. For the studs to fail at 125lb.ft. they must at some stage have been stressed well beyond the yield point of the material so he's potentially been driving round with wheels that could have detached at any time. Either that or the garage is lying and tightened them well beyond 170Nm. |
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23rd Mar 2017 11:12am |
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| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2638  
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My handbook (2010) also specifies 133Nm, but the workshop manual says 130Nm, so which one to believe!??  --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
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28th Nov 2019 1:09pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20380
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I always use 133NM. If that helps? $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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28th Nov 2019 5:57pm |
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| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2638
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Thanks.
The ones for the RRS is 140Nm, so I'll just use that. -- 2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
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28th Nov 2019 6:58pm |
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| Likeomg Member Since: 29 Jun 2012 Location: Lake District / Newcastle Posts: 2640 
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Anybody have the torque settings for suspension?
I never really know when it comes to dampers that I don’t over compress the bushings Maybe torque for the following; Turret bolts Bottom spring securing bolts Front and rear damper |
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2nd Dec 2019 8:50pm |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4210 
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I wouldn’t trust the Puma Haynes manual to tell me how to do anything. It is so riddled with errors it’s not funny. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS |
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2nd Dec 2019 9:07pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17387
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^^^ Unfortunately so is the genuine LR WSM, full of anomalies and errors, with parts that clearly describe the Td5 not the TDCi.
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2nd Dec 2019 9:13pm |
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