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smudger100



Member Since: 25 Jun 2013
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 19

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Brake caliper replacement time..
I have to replace rear calipers on my 2008 110 - should I go for OEM or something else? Is there better than OEM?
Post #799140 23rd Oct 2019 9:16am
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Tommo



Member Since: 19 Dec 2013
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 830

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 Black LE Java Black
Had mine done last year and went genuine with genuine brake pads...cant fault them Thumbs Up
Post #799178 23rd Oct 2019 2:52pm
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smudger100



Member Since: 25 Jun 2013
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 19

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Thanks for that Tommo- just out of interest what sort of money did that cost?
Post #799182 23rd Oct 2019 3:07pm
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Harry.O



Member Since: 25 Jul 2014
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 713

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi ST Nato Green
Mine were replaced about a year ago and OEM were only marginally more than the various pattern ones but significantly cheaper than LR genuine parts. From memory Island 4x4 were the best priced at the time. The calipers were branded AP on the box and had AP cast into them like the leaking originals that were removed, I think the pads were either Delphi or AP also.

I looked at reconditioning the calipers myself and fitting stainless pistons, depending what you read some people say they are a doddle to rebuild and others say it's horrible and easy to damage the seals but I didn't have the time and couldn't afford the vehicle being off the road so opted for new replacements. 2005 Td5 110 Hardtop
1989 300Tdi 90 Soft top
1992 200Tdi 90 Truck cab with Land Cruiser axles
Post #799183 23rd Oct 2019 3:11pm
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Tommo



Member Since: 19 Dec 2013
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 830

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 Black LE Java Black
The costs were:
calipers x4 with stainless steel pistons £520 and new b`pads all round £140.
Just realised it was the discs / pads that were genuine and the calipers were ap lockhead Embarassed
Post #799203 23rd Oct 2019 5:48pm
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2227

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel HT Auto Pennine Grey
Buy genuine and you'll get AP Lockheed.
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

50 Shades of Pennine Grey
Post #799240 23rd Oct 2019 8:59pm
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srod



Member Since: 20 Mar 2015
Location: Argyll
Posts: 190

Rebuilding the old ones with new seals and pistons is easy enough. Especially on rears as there are only 2 pistons per caliper. That way you end up with genuine calipers! (Assuming they are the originals).

Definitely buy genuine pistons and seals, the Britpart seals I used leaked. I didn't bother with extra expense of stainless pistons. Given how easy the job was and how long the pads/discs last I'll just rebuild again if I still own the truck when it's time to replace again.

Also recommend new bleed nipple and caliper bolts as these were pretty rusted up also.
Post #799281 24th Oct 2019 9:36am
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

clean and inspect check piston bore of the caliper before rebuild


rebuild with AP seal and piston kit and red rubber grease



Use dust seal retainer installer tool below used with pad spreading tool Thumbs Up

Click image to enlarge


new bleed nipple - dust cap and caliper bolts too
Post #799293 24th Oct 2019 10:33am
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smudger100



Member Since: 25 Jun 2013
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 19

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Thanks for the info and help people- My local Landrover parts supplier is quoting £727 for pair of rear callipers and £160 for discs (inc VAT) they say they are genuine - which at that price I would bloody hope so - but only have plated pistons and not solid Steel.... anyone got a tip on a supplier with a much keener price I'm wondering??
Post #799703 27th Oct 2019 5:42pm
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