 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear Diff Seal Persistent Leak |
 
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| BaronDefenders Member Since: 28 Jun 2019 Location: London/Cotswolds Posts: 917   
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Yes, very likely! If the breather is blocked, the air, as it heats up and increases pressure, will take the path of the least resistance. Which is often the pinion seal. Charlie
1949 Series 1 80 (SOLD) 2002 Td5 90 (SOLD) 2008 Freelander 2 (SOLD) 1958 Series 2 88 Pastel Green (2019 LR Legends Best Restored) 1983 V8 110 Limestone (Previously owned by Tom Sheppard MBE) 2004 Td5 90 Santorini Black (Td5INSIDE Powered & Rebuilt by CSK) 2012 Puma 110 Zermatt Silver (Overlanding Build) Instagram: @BaronDefenders |
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14th Oct 2019 11:01am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20754
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See if the UJ's on the props are getting hot, in particular nearest the leak.
If you still can't tell take the prop off and check them. I had pinion oil leaks time and time again, and in the end the culprit was a failed UJ cup, and roller bearings. Nearest to that was the culprit rear diff pinion oil seal and diff case nose. Breather is worth checking though too. WeWillWin🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 Last edited by custom90 on 14th Oct 2019 11:37am. Edited 1 time in total |
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14th Oct 2019 11:18am |
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| IandelaMare Member Since: 14 Oct 2019 Location: Oxford Posts: 10 
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Hi, thanks for the replies.
Re: Seal - would the seal continue to leak once a new Breather pipe has been installed (would the seal have been compromised by the blocked pipe?) Re: UJs - I have a chattering sound from the back when driving - would that be related? Mnay thanks again |
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14th Oct 2019 11:29am |
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| BaronDefenders Member Since: 28 Jun 2019 Location: London/Cotswolds Posts: 917
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If the seal continues leaking after replacing the breather then either the seal has been damaged as a result, or, the problem lies elsewhere. Best eliminate all possibilities and then get hold of a new seal - from memory, I don’t think they’re expensive. Charlie
1949 Series 1 80 (SOLD) 2002 Td5 90 (SOLD) 2008 Freelander 2 (SOLD) 1958 Series 2 88 Pastel Green (2019 LR Legends Best Restored) 1983 V8 110 Limestone (Previously owned by Tom Sheppard MBE) 2004 Td5 90 Santorini Black (Td5INSIDE Powered & Rebuilt by CSK) 2012 Puma 110 Zermatt Silver (Overlanding Build) Instagram: @BaronDefenders |
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14th Oct 2019 11:36am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20754
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Highly possible yes.
Often coupled with excess gearstick vibration or movement I found. WeWillWin🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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14th Oct 2019 11:38am |
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| IandelaMare Member Since: 14 Oct 2019 Location: Oxford Posts: 10
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Great, thanks!
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14th Oct 2019 11:38am |
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| IandelaMare Member Since: 14 Oct 2019 Location: Oxford Posts: 10
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Cheers! I will check all that out. Thanks both for such speedy responses!
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14th Oct 2019 11:44am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17724 
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I have had repeated problems with aftermarket flanges (not Britpart which I wouldn't touch with a barge-pole, but "reputable" aftermarket ones), due to poor machining tolerances resulting in the bearing surface for the seal being either out-of-round or not concentric with the centre bore. This will destroy the seal out in a very short time.
The former is easy enough to check with a micrometer, the latter is much harder to check. I have not found similar problems (yet) with genuine parts, but I believe that a genuine flange is now absurdly expensive. |
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14th Oct 2019 12:02pm |
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| IandelaMare Member Since: 14 Oct 2019 Location: Oxford Posts: 10
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OK, that's good to know, thanks.
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14th Oct 2019 12:04pm |
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| IandelaMare Member Since: 14 Oct 2019 Location: Oxford Posts: 10
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£245 yikes!
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14th Oct 2019 12:11pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20754
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Yes, those pinion flanges are blooming expensive.
It was genuine on mine, before and also after a new one also genuine and it still persisted on leaking. I can only but assume the failed UJ cup and roller bearings were causing a non concentric imbalance load on the pinion flange and thus seal. You couldn't tell the UJ was knackered with it in situ either hence why it took so long to find and check. Once I replaced the UJ's then I had the pinion oil seal repaired for me it's been fine since. I suppose the bolt could be loose too, another possibility but not massively common but it has happened before. As blackwolf mentioned regarding the flanges not always being true, that's another concern. Surely they are not fit for purpose if sold like that. Square peg, round hole springs to mind. Out of interest, is the noise in motion? Is it worse at lower speeds or higher speeds? If you put the handbrake on on an incline then release the foot brake is there a lot of movement? WeWillWin🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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14th Oct 2019 12:58pm |
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| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2326 
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Inspect the drive flange seal land carefully for scoring, if scored it will not seal, new seal or old.
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. 50 Shades of Pennine Grey |
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14th Oct 2019 2:24pm |
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| IandelaMare Member Since: 14 Oct 2019 Location: Oxford Posts: 10
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Thanks all.
Noise is intermittent. Starts up when rolling, like a chattering bearing or loose something or other. It's infuriating. I think new UJs, check flange and new seal is the way to go |
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14th Oct 2019 3:22pm |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3664 
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chattering could be handbrake dragging slightly DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,
I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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14th Oct 2019 5:04pm |
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