 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > DPF RE-GEN |
 
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| Matt110 Member Since: 29 Jun 2014 Location: UK Posts: 685  
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When you say can't do it manually do you mean you've tried an OBD commanded static regen and it failed or just that when you drive it to clear it it won't drive far enough before going into limp home mode to actually do a regen?
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10th Oct 2019 6:22am |
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| sjc501 Member Since: 05 Feb 2018 Location: Glasgow Posts: 148
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Hi My Mechanic says its showing 164% full .
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10th Oct 2019 6:51am |
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| macfrank Member Since: 05 Nov 2015 Location: somewhere in the north Posts: 1081  
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First I thought "how can any container be >100% full" ??
Then I found this remarkable manual - for Toyotas 
http://static.toyotamanuals.com.au.s3.amaz...0124800033 see e.g. page 13 I still don't know why >100% but an interesting read nonetheless  |
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10th Oct 2019 11:18am |
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| Matt110 Member Since: 29 Jun 2014 Location: UK Posts: 685
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DPF's are a pain. My suggested first step would be to phone your mechanic and ask him to do a static forced regen. That'll (whilst stationary) hold the revs at approx 3000 for 20 minutes and force the system to regenerate. After that - do another load check (percentage). If it's dropped significantly, do it again (a couple of times should be enough) till you drop to a sensible percentage loading. If that doesn't work, you're into a new DPF, or depending on how brave you are, a DPF cleaning fluid. Changing a DPF on a defender is a pain as the engine needs raising a few cm off the mounts to get access. Also worthwhile checking is are the DPF differential pressure sensors functioning. If they're not - it could simply be lying to itself and it's not full at all. Mechanic can check that with his diagnostic tool reading the outputs from the sensor. Applying pressure to the differential pressure monitoring tubes will give a varying reading. If they dont change.... they've been cooked by the DPF over time. Hope that gives you a few additional options! |
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10th Oct 2019 11:25am |
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| Julie Member Since: 07 Oct 2017 Location: Nantes Posts: 496 
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If something is related to the DPF, you are going to see the red or amber DPF light. If you see the red DPF light, you'll also see the engine management light. In this case a forced regen may clear your DPF (either Nanocom or JLR). Easy to resolve 
If it's only the engine management light, I'll bet on your EGR. Might be a bit harder to resolve  |
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10th Oct 2019 8:41pm |
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7906 
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Great knowledgeable replies
Hope you get it sorted keep us posted. Matt110 are you a JLR technician??  James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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11th Oct 2019 5:52am |
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| JOE_130 Member Since: 26 Nov 2014 Location: Chelmsford Posts: 105 
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Nope but he does have a brother, and between us we cover a good knowledge base of Chassis and Powertrain development for OEM's  We've put a heck of a lot of thought in to how to manage any possible shortcomings in Defender's DPF and emissions control system in the event of one off poor fuel quality abroad. Mental images of Defenders spewing white and black smoke in Morocco, not the old "I think french fuel is dodgy" argument  Can't help being engineers at heart...
I haven't worked with diesels for over a year so my knowledge may be a bit out of date for the very latest vehicles... Within the software strategy in the ECU will be a "soot loading" calculation that ultimately feeds out to the percentage full reading you can see with an off the shelf diagnostics tool. Its general practice to set the 100% soot loading level at the point whereby the ECU is unable to perform an active regen WHILST DRIVING without... > The user becoming aware that the drivability of the vehicle has changed --> customer complaint > Increasing temperatures of the DPF brick (the filter itself) to such a high temperature that the regen may become uncontrolled if certain conditions are met (coasting down a very long hill flowing lots of lovely oxygen over the brick) --> potential dangerous failure mode > The vehicle exceeding legal emissions limits regarding CO, CO2 etc levels during that drive cycle. Whilst the vehicle has to complete at least a passive DPF regen during emissions drive cycle certification (not sure if this is still true, certainly used to be), a manual regen in a garage does not feature on any emissions requirements as it's classed as a service function. When you exceed the realms of a manual service regen, you then have to take the DPF off and place it in an autoclave like apparatus that heats and applies pressure at the same time to clean the filter out backwards... rather unpleasant to watch. Personally I'd avoid like the plague any mobile service that claims they can put an additive down the inlet manifold or in the fuel that claims to fix a blocked DPF. Diesel engines are too highly toleranced these days to appreciate much other than fuel and air. Congratulations if you're still awake. Here endeth the DPF lecture.... sorry I'm having a really slow afternoon... |
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11th Oct 2019 3:15pm |
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| macfrank Member Since: 05 Nov 2015 Location: somewhere in the north Posts: 1081
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still awake indeed!
thanks for this really interesting insight! So the percentage scale is just an arbitrarily defined panic meter  |
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11th Oct 2019 6:08pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 
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Article from the US and whilst talking about the trucking industry there, it's possibly still of interest to Defender owners:
 Click image to enlarge "There are plenty of truck components that can be serviced DIY — but a DPF is not one of them. Using shop air to blow off soot or ash will not clean the filter. Restoring a DPF to its optimal performance level is a science; specialized equipment is needed. In terms of how often to service, it is essential to observe your truck’s published service interval. Severe duty cycles may increase the frequency of active regenerations, which is a good warning to service the DPF sooner than the published interval. Regarding where to service, the best course of action is to follow the truck manufacturer’s recommendation. Most truck dealers clean DPFs, though truck service centers and diesel emission service specialists also offer this service. Trucks can be brought in for servicing or the filter can be removed and brought in by itself. Other services offer pickup and delivery. Some DPF makers offer an exchange program in which dirty DPFs can be swapped for remanufactured clean ones. Consult your specific manufacturer first, as some manufacturers forbid component swapping, which will cause denial of a warranty claim. If you are looking into a third-party service to clean your filter, ask the provider if it warranties the cleaning and make sure to understand the details of the warranty. Some third parties work with franchised dealers. If so, call one of those dealers for a recommendation. In general, exercise extreme caution if you’re thinking of having your DPF serviced by a third party. Going through your manufacturer’s franchised dealer, which typically charges about $200 to $500, is the safest way to ensure you won’t face any warranty issues if a faulty DPF causes damage to other components. While that cost seems high, this cleaning can greatly extend the life of the component while reducing maintenance downtime and costs. This cost is relatively inexpensive when compared to the total cost of the vehicle when purchased. The DPF cleaning can also be combined with other scheduled service work to further minimize downtime. During a dealer cleaning, a baseline reading is taken of the restriction of airflow through the filter using the air flow test bench. Most OEM filters have a baseline of what is considered acceptable air flow. If needed, the filter will be baked in a controlled cycle to burn any soot and convert it to ash. Once the DPF has gone through the cleaning process, its air flow is tested to ensure that it meets the manufacturer’s specs for a cleaned DPF. The DPF is then remounted on the truck. This process could take up to 90 minutes, though baking the filter could take up to eight hours." https://www.businessfleet.com/306167/how-n...ate-filter |
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18th Jan 2020 6:36am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8049  
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I am not sure of dpf pressure sensor locations on def. But ensure there are no leaks between the two. Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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18th Jan 2020 5:11pm |
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| Roy5695 Member Since: 15 Feb 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 1123 
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Pre and post the DPF brick inside the cylinder. It’s one unit so shouldn’t have any leaks between them. They’re only about 8 inches apart 2011 Defender DCPU 2.2 - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic30623.html
Instagram - @r22oyp Roy |
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18th Jan 2020 7:04pm |
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| mobilesawmiller Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Co,Tyrone Posts: 100
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DPF's are a pain in the arse. I had bother with the one in my 2012MY 4.4 TdV8 Range Rover. Would come up DPF full but no matter what I did it would not regenerate. My local independent tried to do a forced regen but no success. They took the DPF off and sent it to a specialist in England. It came back clean and was put back on the vehicle. Not long after it was showing DPF full again. Eventually on of the mechanics worked out it was a faulty sensor and it has behaved itself since - but what a job to get it sorted. DPF's, EGR valves and Add Blu - a complete waste of time and money - IMHO!!!
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19th Jan 2020 11:19am |
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