 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > New axle or repair the original |
 
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| Bluericky Member Since: 26 Jun 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 647   
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Hi Guys
I’m looking to pick everyone’s brains as it appears I need yet another front axle. The first one failed on the weld and my current axle has somehow become bent , I’ve no idea how as I really haven’t abused it. I discovered it when pulling the front half shaft , it was stubborn to remove but I didn’t think much of it at the time. When re inserting it , I couldn’t get it in at all ! Tried another half shaft , it was the same, changed the Diff , again no joy . Shone a torch down inside and it’s like a friggin banana ! So being pretty fed up with changing axles etc , who should I purchase a NEW axle casing from ? Did they sort the weld on the axles and is there such a thing as a reinforced axle ? Or Should I take my old casing (not the bent one) with the failed weld into a fabricator and get it done properly ?! If so anyone know of any reputable place in Cornwall / Devon up to such a job ? Thank you Rich https://www.instagram.com/hustynminepark/ |
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29th Sep 2019 9:40pm |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2300  
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Sounds like you've been unlucky. If it were me I would get hold of a decent used replacement and swap the lot on > 110 XS Double Cab
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30th Sep 2019 5:23am |
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| Bluericky Member Since: 26 Jun 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 647
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I’m pretty reluctant to buy secondhand but if I do, then I will have it shot blasted , reinforced and then repainted .
Is a TD5 axle identical to TDCI ? https://www.instagram.com/hustynminepark/ |
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30th Sep 2019 5:41am |
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| Bluericky Member Since: 26 Jun 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 647
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Thank you William , I probably will but frankly I’d prefer a more robust solution that stops it happening in the first place ! https://www.instagram.com/hustynminepark/
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30th Sep 2019 5:53am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17387
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As far as I know the axle case is (except that the ends don't fall off the TD5 one), but remember that a TD5 110 axle is likely to have a 2-gear diff which doesn't last well with the TDCi motor (later TDCis having the vastly superior 4-gear diff). I think that the military TUM vehicles have reinforced axle cases, if so one of these would be an option but finding them is not easy. My personal preference would be to get a second hand replacement axle case (or use your original one) and sort it out properly:
This is what I have in mind should my axle ever develop these problems (and I do have the "catch brackets" mentioned above on the ends - I really don't want the hubs breaking off!). In my case it helps that I also have access to facilities which regularly work on pressure vessels and have coded welders (you'd just need to find a competent welder, no coding required), but none of the above is difficult. A good fabrication shop could do it. Do you think your current axle was bent before you bought it? Although the late Defender front axle is a bit of a joke in terms of durability, they are not particularly easy to bend. |
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30th Sep 2019 8:16am |
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| Bluericky Member Since: 26 Jun 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 647
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Hi Blackwolf
Thank you for your thoughts . I may well take the old axle with the broken weld and get that one bolstered instead of buying new, my concern is making sure it’s welded parallel with the other side . Otherwise I’ll be buying new and having it collared as you’ve suggested, the cheapest I can find is £700 for OEM The bent axle is a bit of a mystery as it did drive fine for 3000 miles until it gradually started to cause the vibrations and tightness when cornering that I’ve been experiencing. The excessive lateral pressure placed on the front differential by the half shaft was causing it to lock up , this was confirmed when the front wheels were off the ground and they turned together rather than in an opposite rotation (rotated by hand) A new diff and half shaft created the same outcome . The half shaft can only be inserted into the diff when at an acute angle to the swivel flange , then trying to centre it requires significant force , enough to damage the diff. These really are terribly made axles , they seem unbelievably weak . Six defenders and never a problem with an axle until this Puma ! Having said that a lot of people have never had a problem so perhaps it’s my driving or the fact I’m using it as a “utility” vehicle ! Not a word the modern JLR are familiar with https://www.instagram.com/hustynminepark/ |
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30th Sep 2019 8:37am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17387
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It should be relatively easy to check the end flanges for parallelism with the axle case removed from the vehicle simply by bolting some (relatively) long straight edges (a couple of lengths of angle, for example) across each flange and measuring the difference at either end. The flanges should be parallel, so any difference in dimension indicates a problem. I'd repeat for each diametric pair of holes. It doesn't need to be a precision measurement in this case.
The Puma axle case does seem to have suffered particularly badly from Landrover's "value engineering" and it is really not up to the job. |
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30th Sep 2019 9:26am |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2647 
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A later Td5 axle (2002-on) would be the way I would go.
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30th Sep 2019 7:13pm |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2300
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Another way to check parallel... Set up a level base, stand the axle case vertically on its flange and check the other end for level > 110 XS Double Cab
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30th Sep 2019 7:52pm |
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| Bluericky Member Since: 26 Jun 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 647
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Thanks chaps
At what point does the TD5 axle go from narrow to wide radius arm brackets ? https://www.instagram.com/hustynminepark/ |
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30th Sep 2019 8:02pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2647
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That changed with 300Tdi in 1994 - so all Td5 axles were for wider arms.
The 2002-on distinction is because the bolts for the panhard rod went from M14 to M16 for that year. Though as that’s the only difference you could just run an M16 drill through the holes on an older axle. |
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30th Sep 2019 8:18pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8032  
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Make a jig, reweld it in square and brace it. Or sleeve it. Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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30th Sep 2019 8:40pm |
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| BogMonster Member Since: 05 Feb 2008 Location: Stanley Posts: 400  
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That's a new one to me. Got a pic or link? I have seen swivels come off but only blue box jobs that have snapped off. I wouldn't use anything other than genuine now for that reason, but I'm interested to know what this other idea is? --- 2006 Defender 110 SW 300Tdi • 2011 Ford Ranger XLT crewcab • 2015 Defender 110 Station Wagon Utility TDCi |
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1st Oct 2019 9:42am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17387
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^^^ Take a look at these threads, they'll tell you all about the fault, Landrover's pathetic response, and you'll find the brackets pictured on page 6 of the first link.
Part numbers for the brackets are LR068818 (for the LH bracket), LR068822 (for the RH bracket). They don't reinforce the axle or stop it failing, but they do (probably) stop you dying in a blazing fireball when the axle fails. https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic33029.html (See page 6 for pictures of the brackets) https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic55655.html The most disturbing thing about both threads is that most of the failures discussed in them have occurred on vehicles which are outside the VIN range specified in the recall, clear evidence that this is a much bigger problem that JLR acknowledges. Personally I would not drive a TDCi of any age or any wheelbase without the catch brackets fitted. Last edited by blackwolf on 20th Jun 2022 2:10pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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1st Oct 2019 10:52am |
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