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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Gearstick ball joint alternatives

Which option would you recommend?

Stick with genuine, the price isn't worth paying more for the other 'upgrades'. It does the job for now..

35%

[5]

The slickshift. (Please add your views in a post.)

50%

[7]

The Shift R V1 / now V2 avaible. (Please add your views in a post.)

14%

[2]

Total Votes: 14

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custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20376

Gearstick ball joint alternatives

I have been doing some work on my 90 over the last week, including lubing the transfer box linkage.
Fitting the 4x spacers to the gearstick assembly etc etc and lubing the hi low lever and gearstick ball joints etc.
The spacers seem like thing are a little tightened up, nothing massively changed but I'd say a little better so at least those are in.
Managed to Torque the bolts correctly etc.
Anyway, on removing the gearstick lower assembly for greasing it seems I've joined the bracket nylon ball joint group.

Previously I had only greased it from the top temporarily until I got it out, it helped but I knew I should do it all which I subsequently did a fullthourough job.
This explains the bit of gearstick 'waggle' I had for a while.

I do have lots of pics of installing the spacers and the cracked ball joint I think, I'll upload tonight if I get the chance.
I had hoped the greasing would be job done, but I was wrong.

So the alternatives seem to be genuine about £125 ish, the slickshift around £160 or the Shift R V2 about £225.
What does everyone recommend and what do you have?

Despite price, the Shift R seems the most attractive option due to less adjustment needed. Less work involved fitting and longevity once fitted. It is still however plenty of money but benefits of the shorter throw as well.
The Genuine replacement is O-K and better price wise, but it will happen again.
I can't see a nylon ball on a metal shaft. (No jokes please.) being that great a design, especially with the wear and fragile nature of the ball, with age.

The good news is I have easy access as the mats are out, and the selector cup is fine and everything else.
I really don't think I should postpone replacement knowing it's cracked.

Thoughts welcome and I'll try and upload photos later, if nothing else it maybe useful images to others for the reverse light switch and other items in the area in particular anyone wanting to fit the spacers.

I'm tending to lean towards the Shift R, but the price it is I could do without but if it lasts years then I shalt not unduly complain!

$W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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5th Aug 2019 2:48pm

gilarion

Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5110

2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green

See the full thread here https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic67172...slickshift

After a few weeks of debating with myself about fitting a Slickshift, I decided to bite the bullet and order one from Synchro Gears. I decided to buy the whole kit which includes a new turret and a plastic sleeve, anti-rattle spring and the Slikshift
Fitting was pretty straight forward bearing in mind I am no mechanic.

Getting the plastic sleeve out was a challenge but got there in the end, then bending the springs forward took some doing.

The hardest thing was adjusting the springs and the bias which I have to say took a couple of hours of slight adjustment and then keep taking the Defender for a drive around and then more adjustment until I got it right. I am now very pleased with the way the gears change.

The Slickshift takes some getting used to and I will have to learn the new ‘H’ as the gear change is pretty close.
What do I think of the new set up, really good and once I get used to the new style of change it will be one of the best mods I have done.

At first glance it looks complicated to fit but it is not, though forget about it only taking a half hour to fit as Syncro say, for it took me all afternoon, as I say adjusting the springs is a chore and I nearly gave up, but if you take your time and adjust in very small increments you will get there.

I have just driven to town with the new set up and the gearbox feels like its brand new the changeup and down is very slick and I can recommend this mod to anyone, just make sure you buy a new turret as the wear on the old one I took out was noticeable, they only cost £30.00 complete with springs fitted.

Well, it has been over three weeks since I fitted the slick shift and I am now used to the new gear change it and love it. The Gear change is very 'slick' and so much more positive than the stirring porridge that the old change was. For the money, this is one of the best mods I have done and one that any home mechanic can do as it is not that difficult to fit. For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1

5th Aug 2019 3:00pm

X4CAC

Member Since: 30 Apr 2018
Location: Midlands
Posts: 212

2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey

I went with the Slick Shift as it was the one a mate had fitted and I knew he could sort mine. It's the one Ian @ IRB recommends so like most things if it's good enough for him it's good enough for me.

I love mine, it's up there in the 5 top mods I'd recommend to anyone who has a standard setup.

If you want to go for the Short Shift I know TMD Tuning currently have a 10% off sale on for the next week

5th Aug 2019 3:28pm

Sulisuli

Member Since: 30 Oct 2016
Location: South west
Posts: 4795

2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey

I have the slickshift and very pleased with it, much nicer gear change it does take a little getting use too.

My wife’s defender doesn’t have one and it now feels odd driving hers without it.

Totally recommend by me Steve

2015 HT XS 90
2008 SVX 90
2000 XS TD5 90

5th Aug 2019 5:12pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20376

Photos here:

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge
Bolts for the spacers are 25NM, Torx screws for hi / low levers 7nm. I fitted all four spacers.
Good reading regarding the Slickshift, will just see how it goes with a few more votes over a few days.
It wasn’t an upgrade I was considering but seeing as I found the issue I have it’s a golden opportunity to upgrade.
Everything was in good condition except for the nylon ball crack, which a few people have had it seems. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

5th Aug 2019 8:29pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20376

Gillarion - Do you have any more info on the turret or is it included in the thread you mentioned? $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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5th Aug 2019 8:32pm

boxoftricks

Member Since: 06 Feb 2019
Location: Home Counties
Posts: 747

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver

Please go for the slickshift, it will honestly be the best mod you've made as transforms the whole driving experience. Best one I've done and it is so quick and easy.

5th Aug 2019 10:28pm

gilarion

Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5110

custom90steve wrote:
Gillarion - Do you have any more info on the turret or is it included in the thread you mentioned?

For the slickshift that will fit 200/300 TDi and TD5

https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product...lickshift/

And for the turret

https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product...er-turret/

For anything else

https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/ For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1

5th Aug 2019 10:33pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20376

Gilarion - Thank you. Isn't that turret for a pre Puma though? Mines a 2.4. (I should have soda possibly.)
The link is however very useful and the parts on that site.
This video is useful regarding fitting info down the page here:
https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product...lickshift/

So I think Slickshift it is! Will order at some point soon and get it done.

Only thing I would say is, I notice he used no loctite on the grub screw I guess there is little point in that.
Regarding the 4x screws though the Alu collar, I would use the same Torque as factory and I'd be inclined to use a low breakaway Torque Loctite like 222 in case of disassembly later down the line.
I would imagine the loctite is needed in this instance due to the Alu collar, where as the factory was plastic.
Glued my weights again the other day too.

$W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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6th Aug 2019 5:04pm

Zed

Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: In the woods
Posts: 3291

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black

Has anyone actually compared the slickshift and shift r side-by-side?

6th Aug 2019 5:49pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20376

There seems to be very little info on the Shift R. My only concern with the Slickshift is that it's a 2 piece unit and that grub screw.
1 piece just seems better to me but a nagging thought, I guess the 2 piece has no rotational problems though as the grub screw is located precisely in its recess beyond the threads. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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6th Aug 2019 5:55pm

Zed

Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: In the woods
Posts: 3291

I have similar concerns. Also I have driven with both but not side by side nor in comparable Defender 's and because of that I am undecided. I did consider buying both to see which I prefer but because of my limited mechanical skills it would be a faff.

If only the Land Rover magazines would actually do their jobs, act like real journalists and print proper honest reviews and comparisons instead of producing glorified catalogues for anyone who stumps up the readies for an advert. However that's probably for another thread..

6th Aug 2019 6:09pm

Sulisuli

Member Since: 30 Oct 2016
Location: South west
Posts: 4795

And what a thread that would be Zed. It would be very interesting to have a like for like comparison. 2015 HT XS 90
2008 SVX 90
2000 XS TD5 90

6th Aug 2019 6:23pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20376

It seems the Shift R has more parts with it too hence the price.
But frankly for both I’d respect all new parts for cost really.
It’s a tough decision, wish there was more views on the Shift R as well to give a balanced opinion.
My only thoughts with the Shift R is removal of a failiure point but that comes with higher price too. I wonder why the Slickshift is two piece anyway, reduced machining cost? It seems a fair few people have gone genuine too, no problem with that and much reduced cost too. I am just curious as the option is open and I will need a solution of the three for certain.

$W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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6th Aug 2019 6:30pm

Sulisuli

Member Since: 30 Oct 2016
Location: South west
Posts: 4795

Steve I think it’s two part so it can be set up to use with left or right hand drive defenders

2015 HT XS 90
2008 SVX 90
2000 XS TD5 90

6th Aug 2019 6:43pm

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