 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Heat Proofing Gearbox/Exhaust/Seatbox |
 
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5880   
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Just been reading through Custom90Steve’s post on the gear selector ball joint and seeing the photos of the transmission tunnel cover removed made me wonder if anyone on here had done an extensive heat proofing upgrade in the area?
I’m thinking as follows: Heat Resistant Blanket Wrap of the Gear Box Heat Resistant Blanket Wrap of the transfer box Heat Resistant sleeve over the exhaust Adhesive backed heat-reflective sheets under the seat box (requiring removal) Adhesive backed heat-reflective sheet under the transmission tunnel cover. 
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge There seems to be quite a lot of space under there and I think a good weekend spent (removing the seatbox, cleaning etc) could reap some real benefits from the POV of reducing cabin heat, but also by default, some cabin noise as well? Anyone made this kind of effort?  Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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6th Aug 2019 7:42am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324 
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I can see an advantage to some sort of heat reflective sheet to the underside of the transmission tunnel but I wouldn't be comfortable with blanket wrapping the gearbox due to the potential for excessive heat build-up. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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6th Aug 2019 7:56am |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5880
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"but I wouldn't be comfortable with blanket wrapping the gearbox due to the potential for excessive heat build-up"
Actually, I did wonder that. Most covers seem to stop short of the gearbox itself. Monsieur Le Grenadier I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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6th Aug 2019 8:31am |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5880
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"the heat from near the hand brake is very hot"
That's exactly my problem and what I'd hope to fix. I'm in the process of fitting AC, but I actually like driving with the window open. But the updraught is like a south-Sarahan thermal. I swear I see vultures circling near the headlining. So that's what I'd hope to remedy. But it's interesting you think it's air, as I think it is all the metal heated up. I have sound proofed and re-sealed and tightened everything in the footwell, bar the gaps in the handbrake cable routing. As such, there should be very little air ingress from in/around the footwells. However, once I've been on a long drive and the heat builds up, the physical heat of the metal on the seatbox, under the cubby, around the transmission tunnel and the handbrake lever is enourmous and I wonder if the air whipping in and down through the window acts, (with the over-pressure forcing it back through the driver's legs), like a convection oven. Blackwolf has mentioned on other posts that part of the problem is if the handbrake drum is too tightly clamped, it creates excessive heat from friction, which then seems to spread through the cable/lever. Personally I think it's a little bit of everything; exhaust and transmission temps, friction from the handbrake drum, and engine air temp. I'm not sure you can really minimise the engine air temp, (bar also adding heat reflective adhesive matting to the engine bay bulkhead and leading edge/base of the footwells), but I think addressing the other two - including loosening the handbrake drum a bit - could make a big difference.... Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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6th Aug 2019 10:11am |
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| bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2193 
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LizardSkin (available from Buzzweld) do a rather good "heat proofer"
Spray on so easy to apply. As for lowering engine temps, can remove the front suspension caps allows more air to flow thru. Instagram @defender_ventures Empire Tuning - Agent |
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6th Aug 2019 10:53am |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5880
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Wow. Thanks Bankz. Just looked that up. A couple coats of that spayed under the seat box, footwell and if you had access, the engine bay bulkhead, would make a huge difference.
Interesting what you say about the suspension caps as I'm about to do the front forks, so might leave them out.... Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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6th Aug 2019 11:03am |
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| oneten110 Member Since: 02 Jul 2011 Location: Wish I was still in France Posts: 741
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Not sure if they are still available but at one time there was a company doing a wrap for the bell housing, intended to reduce noise rather than heat, but given that it encloses the bell housing it ought to provide some benefit in heat reduction, they were also offered by Land Rover, for the P38 and come in 2 pieces
https://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?quer...PerPage=10 https://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?quer...PerPage=10 Land Rover offered gearbox oil coolers at one time, maybe they are still an option. That way if you wrap the gearbox at least it will obviate some of the risk. There are also deeper sumps available for the LT230 the additional litre of oil might help if the transfer box were to be wrapped, plus it has a pocket to enable the fitment of a temperature sender unit. I wrapped the manifold, "Y" pipe and middle box on mine without any obvious detriment, That said on warm days there are occasions when the seat box gets too hot to touch. One of the side effects of having an inefficient V8 sat up front It is not a Defender, it is a One_Ten |
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6th Aug 2019 11:14am |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5880
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OneTen,
I presume you're thinking of this, which is still available: https://www.nkgroup.co.uk/product/land-rov...g-blanket/ I think, when looking at the way the Defender is put together, plus the anecdotes on this forum and on-line, there are possibly so many causes that doing just one thing or another may not be enough. All or nothing is arguably the better approach. But with a bit of time, application and logic, there could be a real improvement if a number of these issues are tackled so that they all work in unison. Monsieur Le Grenadier I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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6th Aug 2019 11:25am |
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| bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2193
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Best to spray the interior to protect it! Otherwise youll have to spray raptor or similar over the top. Instagram @defender_ventures Empire Tuning - Agent |
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6th Aug 2019 11:59am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17614 
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I am, personally, convinced that most of the cabin heat comes from air being drawin into the cab past the handbrake lever and various other poorly fitting panels, and it is not due to conduction through the floor from heat sources underneath. In the case of my DC (no AC thankfully, one more thing to go wrong!), the footwells get far hotter if you have a window open than they do if you have the windows shut, which would not happen if it was a conduction issue (they'd be the same or cooler, but not hotter). I too like to have the window open when it's hot, and I have found that the best "hot weather" upgrade I have ever done is to fit electric rear window lifters. With the driver's side front window open, and the passenger's side rear window open, the ventilation is perfect and the vehicle stays comfortable, which it doesn't do with just the front windows open. There also seems to be better airflow throughout and even the footwells are cooler. |
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6th Aug 2019 1:03pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5815 
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Take your cat off and you notice the difference
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6th Aug 2019 8:01pm |
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| shropshiredefender Member Since: 05 Jun 2017 Location: Shropshire Posts: 834  
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To concur with Blackwolf, I've had these https://www.4x4overlander.com/product/naka...efender-2/ fitted for the past 3 years and find that in my USW the HVAC system is much improved due to better air flow. On long Continental trips the dogs have the rear to themselves, the back seats are in place and piled high with stuff giving the effect of a Dual Cab. Both driver and passenger footwells stay comfortable. |
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6th Aug 2019 8:34pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17614
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^^^ I used those before fitting the electric lifters and can confirm that they have the same effect. I tend not to use them much now because they're a little harder to install with leccy windows and there's a risk that they'll fall out if you forget and lower the glass while driving.
They're great if you want ventilation while the vehicle's parked up and locked, though. |
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6th Aug 2019 9:45pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17614
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Absolutely. Decatting makes a huge difference but is controversial. |
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6th Aug 2019 9:47pm |
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