 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > 2010 2.4 tdci 90 Rear Disc change help required. |
 
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| macandy13 Member Since: 25 Dec 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 24   
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The disc is secured to the hub. Remove caliper, remove drive flange, undo the locking nut(cant remember the size), pull the hub off being careful to catch the wheel bearing. The nuts are on the reverse side of the hub. If you have ABS you will need to change the exciter ring over too.
You'll need a new gasket for the drive flange and a new lock nut if you chisel it off. Either replace the bearing too or just repack it with grease. |
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17th Jul 2019 6:24pm |
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| lonewolf Member Since: 23 Oct 2013 Location: North East England Posts: 210  
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Thanks for the reply, hmm a little more than I expected but not too bad I think. The socket that you mention....would that be the 52mm one I’ve heard people refer to?
I’ll have to do a bit more homework so I’m sure I’ve gotten my hands on all the necessary bits prior to starting the job. If anyone else has anything to add ie torque settings for the re build please feel free to add to this thread. |
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17th Jul 2019 6:35pm |
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| williamthedog Member Since: 29 Dec 2012 Location: south wales Posts: 3441 
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Yes it is that 52mm socket that you've heard about
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17th Jul 2019 6:44pm |
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| lonewolf Member Since: 23 Oct 2013 Location: North East England Posts: 210
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Cheers WTD 👍
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17th Jul 2019 7:53pm |
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| B4Lamb Member Since: 21 Mar 2015 Location: Abergavenny, Wales Posts: 233  
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Was it a single 52 mm AF cinch nut or a locking nut and and adjustment nut arrangement with tab washer? I can't get details of when this change was introduced. If the single nut, do you know the part number as this I understand is a single use nut and I will need a new one when I do my discs? "You are never to old to learn something new"
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4th Aug 2019 5:30am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
RFD100000
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4th Aug 2019 7:13am |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1917 
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I find the good old fashioned Haines manual is great for these types of jobs
2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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4th Aug 2019 7:18am |
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| Siwynne Member Since: 04 Nov 2016 Location: West lancs Posts: 578 
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I did this for the first time last week. Bought a Brit part 52mm box spanner. Great bit of kit. It’s not a difficult job and there are a few good clips on YouTube showing how. A good breaker bar is a handy bit of kit when undoing the bolts that release the disc from the hub. (Put it upside down in a wheel to hold it still)
It is a spanner job but you will need a good pair of split ring pliers to get the ring off the end of the drive shaft. I used a huge cable tie to support the calliper whilst the disc was changed to prevent stress on the pipes. |
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4th Aug 2019 7:36am |
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| B4Lamb Member Since: 21 Mar 2015 Location: Abergavenny, Wales Posts: 233
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Well unfortunately the Haynes manual for this variant (2007 To 2016) has an exploded diagram of the rear hub/disc/half shaft 9.1 indicating that it has an adjusting nut and a lock nut but the wording states "knock back the staking, then undo the hub nut .... Discard the nut, a new one must be fitted." So this description and also the reassembly indicates it's a single staked nut with a selected spacer washer depending on end float. So the manual is completely at odds with itself. So what is correct for a 2007 model Tdci? If it's a staked nut then I'm reading on some of the videos that a box spanner is likely to flair so it's recommended to use a heavy duty 52 mm socket with 1/2" drive. "You are never to old to learn something new" |
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4th Aug 2019 8:28am |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4209 
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My 07 110 is the single stake nut type. If that’s what you have, and you stick with it, you’ll need a big wrench for retightening. I had what I thought was a big 3/4 drive wrench but it doesn’t go high enough. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
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4th Aug 2019 8:48am |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5703 
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It will be the horrible stake nut. So you will need a new one, and also a decent punch/chisel to untab the old one so it doesn’t damage the thread as you unwind it.
The nut is 52mm, and box spanner’s are readily available, BUT, the stake nut will be tight, and often needs a breaker bar, and sometimes that needs some help. So personally I would buy a 52mm socket, 1/2 drive, or what ever your breaker bar is. These can be bought on eBay for £10-£15. Makes the job easier. Also DO NOT use a nut gun on drive flange bolts as these have thread lock on and so need so “feeling” when you are undoing them, or they can snap, causing a ball ache. I then run a tap down the threads to clean them to help with reassembly. Hang the callipers with cable ties whilst you do the work, don’t just let them hang on their hoses. If the disc has worn unevenly then check you callipers for sticking/rusty pistons. I think but not sure, but the bolts holding the calliper carrier on require a multipoint socket, or possibly that is just the front ones. Worth a check. |
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4th Aug 2019 9:09am |
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| carrotbay Member Since: 18 Aug 2013 Location: Northants, UK Posts: 699 
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When I did this I converted to the old 2 nut system for the wheel bearings and got rid of the stake nuts. I find it much easier and better for on going maintenance. 2008 Defender 110 XS SW - M57N2 / 6HP28X
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4th Aug 2019 10:23am |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5703
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Yes. That’s what I did too. Much better system for the home mechanic.
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4th Aug 2019 10:49am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17384 
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As above, a 2007 vehicle in ex-factory condition will have the stake nut.
It is hard to think of a single benefit of this outside the factory, and converting to the earlier two nut system is to all intents a no-brainer. |
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4th Aug 2019 11:59am |
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