 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Spraying with Rattle Cans |
 
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| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5115   
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Obviously, mask off. Hold the can about eight inches from the panel and start spraying about six inches from the front of the panel and end about six inches from the panel that way the spray pattern is equal. As you sweep the can over the area try and spray the next sweep slightly over the spray line of the first and so on.
Build up the paint layer gradually in thin coats do not try and spray one heavy coat. When totally dry use a product like Farecla G3 to level the paint. For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at.. http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1 |
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3rd Aug 2019 2:21pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20638 
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Make sure you have a spray can like the Upol power can with a fan nozzle too, otherwise it'd be more difficult to avoid thick and thin spots and drips.
The wing is a bit big for aerosol though, typically a compressor is better suited to larger items. TheThunder Rolls🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 Last edited by custom90 on 3rd Aug 2019 6:20pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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3rd Aug 2019 2:52pm |
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| Balvaig Member Since: 19 Feb 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 736  
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If you can get behind the holes I would bond a bit of aluminium mesh or thin aluminium behind the hole with body filler. When dry, then finish the hole off with more body filler, then rub down to give a smooth surface.High fill primer should then give you a final surface for blending in.
Holes filled like this have lasted for years on previous cars. Practice your spraying on some scrap sheet too. I would also recommend getting your paint from a paint supplier who use better quality cans - as custom90steve says. |
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3rd Aug 2019 3:36pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20638
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Only thing I've ever found wiht hi build is you can get "pin holes" which a stopper like Dolphin glaze will sort out no problem but they are not always easy to spot.
The Upol guide coat is good too when using a block as they you can see any imperfections. TheThunder Rolls🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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3rd Aug 2019 6:22pm |
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| Slideywindows Member Since: 09 Sep 2016 Location: North Essex Posts: 1295 
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I do quite a bit of patching and aerosol can spraying.
Most recent was removing this ugly "searchlight" from the rear roof of my Ninety:  Click image to enlarge It left 3 holes and a a deeply corroded patch of aluminium. My method of repair is to put several layers of masking tape over the holes on the outside. Clean and deeply score the ally on the inside around the holes. Cut a piece of aluminium gauze to cover the hole on the inside, mix up JB Weld and fill the hole from the inside so that it presses up against the masking tape on the outside - this gives you a flat finish on the outside. Gently push the gauze patch into the JB Weld and cover the whole patch on the inside with strips of masking tape, before the JB Weld can drip downwards. Go away for 24 hours to let it all set, then strip off the masking tape. Use filler-primer for minor imperfections on the outside and then spray with rattle-can as described by others - but if you are blending in new paint with old, it takes a little skill to swiftly move the can away as you move across from the repaired area towards the existing paint. Finished area: Click image to enlarge All done with Halfords "Rover White" which is a dead ringer for the original Ivory White |
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3rd Aug 2019 9:32pm |
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7908 
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Looks great Charles!!
  and not just the paint job! James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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3rd Aug 2019 9:42pm |
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| zippo87 Member Since: 29 Mar 2019 Location: Moray Posts: 100 
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Gently warming the can in a tub of hot water before you shoot will allow better atomisation of the paint particles, so you should get a finer mist. Unless of course it’s already warm. But you don’t want to be shooting paint on a hot day onto a hot surface etc. Just go for it - someone mentioned u-pol and it’s some of the best can paint I’ve used. Take your time, the more prep you put in the better the final piece.
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5th Aug 2019 3:39am |
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