↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Tips on fixing galvanic corrosion
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 1 of 1
Print this entire topic · 
mattc



Member Since: 10 Apr 2019
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 73

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 2.5 TD HT Java Black
Tips on fixing galvanic corrosion
My 90 has got some galvanic corrosion around some of the rivets and under the body cappings, plus a bit of rust forming on the frame at the rear. Please could anyone give me an indication of the work required to sort this? Looking to take it to somewhere in the North West/North Wales area if possible.

Many thanks!


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
Post #781927 17th Jul 2019 7:28pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
90 Dreamer



Member Since: 13 Jul 2019
Location: Oop North
Posts: 2164

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
Looks pretty poor, what age is the truck if you dont mind me asking??
Post #781933 17th Jul 2019 7:46pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
mattc



Member Since: 10 Apr 2019
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 73

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 2.5 TD HT Java Black
It's a 2005. The rest of it is in quite decent shape, so keen to get this sorted to tidy it up and prolong its lifespan.
Post #781934 17th Jul 2019 7:47pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Oldowner



Member Since: 26 Dec 2018
Location: South west
Posts: 623

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Aintree Green
The body is only in primer at best behind the cappings. So to do properly you need to remove the cappings and have them shot blasted and hot zinc sprayed, and whilst that is being done paint the unpainted portions of the body which were hidden by the cappings.
Post #781938 17th Jul 2019 7:59pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
CharlieDonuts



Member Since: 16 Jun 2019
Location: Illiers Combray
Posts: 133

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Galway Green
I have the same issue on my rain gutters and around the quarter lights. I want to clean it up before fitting a roof tent. Do I clean it back to bare metal, prime with a zinc primer and respray. I only wash the 90 once a year and I will respray the roof matt black. So it needs to be done as to not come back but I don’t need a fancy paint job.
Post #781988 18th Jul 2019 8:17am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
boxoftricks



Member Since: 06 Feb 2019
Location: Home Counties
Posts: 747

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
Back to bare metal, zinc primer and then paint is how the bodyshop would do it. You may like to use a high build primer between the zinc and paint. Build up a few coats to knock back to get a nice smooth finish.
Post #782008 18th Jul 2019 11:04am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Green Machine



Member Since: 19 Nov 2010
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1226

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Tonga Green
As oldowner says, the only way to properly resolve it is to lift the roof / body sides off the tub and then drill out the rivets and remove the cappings.

I went through this exact process on my 2005 90 with a local bodyshop a couple of years ago. Replaced the tub cappings, the rear corner cappings and the lamp panels. Mine were all pretty far gone to be honest, so I replaced all with new. The key is to make sure everything is fully painted before reassembly - doing as much as possible to make sure there is a good separating layer of paint between all the elements. I then got the bodyshop to seal the edges of the cappings with black automotive sealant, which hopefully prevents any water getting in behind there. They also ran a bead of black sealant along the top of the cappings in the gap between the body side and the top edge of the capping.

There is an argument to replace with galvanised cappings (or have your existing cappings galvanised if they're good enough). In the end I decided against this as I was advised that the paint finish on galvanising would never be as good as on bare metal (no matter what the prep) and there was a risk of the cappings warping when galvanised and not fitting properly. But you can always use a zinc-rich primer as a compromise.

Like anything with paintwork it all comes down to the thoroughness of the individual who actually does it! I haven't been totally impressed with the work I had done - it is already starting to show the early signs of corrosion again around the rear corner cappings. But mine doesn't get cleaned very often and is used through the winter with the huge amount of salt we get on the roads round here. It's also parked outside and not garaged. So the odds are stacked against it from a corrosion point of view!

Final point is to used sealed / closed rivets in re-fitting everything, so water can't track through the rivet itself. Basically seal and isolate everything as much as possible!

Good luck! Thumbs Up 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green
Post #782010 18th Jul 2019 12:10pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
mattc



Member Since: 10 Apr 2019
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 73

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 2.5 TD HT Java Black
That's really useful to know. Thanks everyone. Definitely beyond my skills so I'll be looking to find a specialist to tackle it for me. Can anyone recommend anyone in Cheshire or surrounding counties, please?
Post #782011 18th Jul 2019 12:19pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Oldowner



Member Since: 26 Dec 2018
Location: South west
Posts: 623

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Aintree Green
Green Machine wrote:
As oldowner says, the only way to properly resolve it is to lift the roof / body sides off the tub and then drill out the rivets and remove the cappings

There is an argument to replace with galvanised cappings (or have your existing cappings galvanised if they're good enough). In the end I decided against this as I was advised that the paint finish on galvanising would never be as good as on bare metal (no matter what the prep) and there was a risk of the cappings warping when galvanised and not fitting properly. But you can always use a zinc-rich primer as a compromise


If you have them hot zinc sprayed it is pretty much as good as galvanising and none of the above issues. I have a series bulkhead I had hot zinc sprayed in early 2000s and no rust on it despite it being parked 10m from the sea.
Post #782027 18th Jul 2019 5:34pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Scotm



Member Since: 28 Feb 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 666

Scotland 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Orkney Grey
If you get all the parts sprayed it isn't a difficult job to do yourself. Just a little time consuming. I did my previous 110 myself on the drive.


Click image to enlarge
Post #782059 18th Jul 2019 9:48pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
roel



Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

Netherlands 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Caledonian Blue
Corrosion on the alu panels has to be removed completely otherwise it comes back very soon.
My 2003 90 started life as a farmers pick-up, the advantage off that is that the cappings are galvanised and painted not just painted.

I took the paint off as I like the old style look.


Click image to enlarge
 Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)
Post #782080 19th Jul 2019 11:32am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
CharlieDonuts



Member Since: 16 Jun 2019
Location: Illiers Combray
Posts: 133

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Galway Green
Scotm wrote:
If you get all the parts sprayed it isn't a difficult job to do yourself. Just a little time consuming. I did my previous 110 myself on the drive.


Click image to enlarge


Frankly only a Land Rover owner could take a photo like this. The ingenuity alone !

My mechanic mate's, best mate, who is the guvnor at the local body shop, says he can clean, prime and blow my roof in matt black for 350 euros, just have to wait for the summer holidays to be over. Good'o.
Post #782228 20th Jul 2019 11:38am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
mattc



Member Since: 10 Apr 2019
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 73

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 2.5 TD HT Java Black
As this work is a significant step above my skills, I've been looking for a specialist. I have to admit, I haven't a clue what sort of price is reasonable, but was surprised at the first quote received. This was to replace the RHS tub capping, replace the rear quarter cappings, tidy a couple of dents and then spray it all black.

Quote:
1,Repair and paint roof panel above the rear door
2,Paint to rear door
3,Repair and paint dent in door, to blend into front wing
4,Repair and paint o/s rear quarter where capping has been removed and blend into panel
5,Repair and paint n/s rear quarter where capping has been removed and blend into panel
6,Paint rear tub panels o/s & n/s where capping has been replaced and blend into panel
7,Paint to new cappings
8,Remove and refit roof panel and o/s & n/s tub panels to replace cappings

Total labour, Paint and materials £2870.64
Total Parts ( cappings x 4 ) £336.28
Sub total £3206.92
VAT @ 20% £641.39
Total £3848.31



Obviously, removing the roof and sides is a fair bit of work! Any suggestions on who to try for a cheaper quote, or advice on whether this is realistic, please?

Thanks!
Post #782564 22nd Jul 2019 1:36pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
JOW240725



Member Since: 04 May 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 7906

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey
If you were closer to Suffolk/Essex I'd highly recommend Hangar 53 for this sort of work. There is CSK in Hoddeston. But in your area I would recommend having a look at Carriages Auto Services Ltd, Manchester or 4x4 Fabrications, Wrexham? James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html
MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641
MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557
Instagram @suffolk_rovers
Post #782571 22nd Jul 2019 2:53pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
mattc



Member Since: 10 Apr 2019
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 73

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 2.5 TD HT Java Black
Many thanks, James! I'll give them a try.
Post #782572 22nd Jul 2019 2:54pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Post Reply
Post Reply  Back to top
Page 1 of 1
All times are GMT

Jump to  
Previous Topic | Next Topic >
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
DEFENDER2.NET RSS Feed - All Forums