 | Home > Technical > Front axle identification, and welding advice |
 
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727   
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I recently picked up what was reportedly a 2010 Defender front axle casing from a breaker, which I cleaned up at the weekend with a wire brush:
 Click image to enlarge prior to a solid painting job. However, after purchasing this, I found out the problem with the Puma axle welds coming undone, as per the following thread: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic33029...;start=105 which is, well less than ideal. I am determining what to do. I could get the two brackets, which are pretty costly (around £40 a side on ebay at the moment), and they seem like a pretty poor solution to the problem. As I have the axle out on the bench at the moment I could run a TIG bead around the bottom side - I cannot reach the top side with the brackets in place, but the weight of the vehicle is causing them to tear at the bottom anyway. Click image to enlarge Without grinding the lip off though and grinding a V into the casing, I don't think its going to have that much penetration, so I am questioning the benefit of doing it. I don't really want to grind into what could be a perfectly good weld if I can help it, especially as I don't have bullet proof confidence in my TIG welding ability at the moment for something as safety critical as this, having only been welding for 9 months or so so far. I would be happy just running a bead over the top of the lip though, which I guess would be better than nothing. How do we think Land Rover (or their supplier) welded these in the first place? Are they just friction welded, which causes the lip to form? If it was friction welded, what's with the funny lip around the horizontal weld at the bottom of this picture? Click image to enlarge Finally, I could just ignore it and pretend the problem does not exist - after all it appears to be only been a very small number of axles which have failed. To that end, I tried to work out which Defender model this axle actually came from. Here's the start of the serial number: Click image to enlarge which makes it a '44M' type. This is a problem - according to the web, there is no such '44M' axle serial number as listed on the following pages: https://www.lrworkshop.com/axles-differentials/axlecodes https://www.lrfaq.org/FAQ.3.EngineDrivetrainDataTransfer.html There is a 44L (from a Range Rover), and a 44S (90" rear axle HD). Any ideas what on earth this axle is from? 2005 Td5 90 XS 1989 V8 110 CSW |
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21st May 2019 10:08pm |
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| williamthedog Member Since: 29 Dec 2012 Location: south wales Posts: 3441 
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If you're a competent welder go for strengthening the axle. I've done the same as blackwolf and put the brackets onto my axle. When I bought mine they were around £25 each so not too much.
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22nd May 2019 3:04am |
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| Bluericky Member Since: 26 Jun 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 647  
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I would definitely put the brackets on as the others have said .
My axle failed last year and it was a very unpleasant experience ! The axle didn’t have a double lip, like your pics, it was a single seam and it had clearly failed. The replacement axle I purchased was from a 2012 and has the double seam like yours . I don’t know if that’s relevant ! https://www.instagram.com/hustynminepark/ |
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22nd May 2019 6:26am |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727
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Thank you for the replies gentlemen.
I think I am leaning towards running a bead over the top of the existing seem, and then shelling out for the 'catch' brackets as additional insurance then. Off to ebay I go  2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW |
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22nd May 2019 11:16am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
Bo you no the age of land rover your replacement axles from
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22nd May 2019 11:32am |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727
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It was advertised as a 2010 Defender front axle. It arrived with "Defender" painted on the axle (presumably by the breaker), so I've no reason to believe it wasn't from a Defender.
Its also in pretty good condition with minimal rust (certainly much better than my 1989 one which is will replace!), so I can believe its a 2010 vintage. I just hope it isn't one which was swapped by Land Rover as part of the recall, and ended up being sold on to a breaker... 2005 Td5 90 XS 1989 V8 110 CSW |
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22nd May 2019 11:56am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17480 
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AFAIK LR didn't swap any as part of the recall unless they had actually cracked.
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22nd May 2019 12:17pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2237
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Just in case you are not aware, the panhard rod bolt size changed from M14 to M16 between your original axle and the new one you have (change was for 02' TD5 i recall). Therefore you will need to change to a later Panhard rod and chassis/steering box mount to fit that later axle.
Not a major issue but annoying if you dont realise until you come to fit it. Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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22nd May 2019 1:44pm |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727
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Thanks Steve. I must admit I had forgotten about that - I changed the axle after discussion with Gwyn Lewis and he told me what you just said, but it went in one ear and straight out the other.
I'll get an updated chassis/Panhard arm ordered, cheers! 2005 Td5 90 XS 1989 V8 110 CSW |
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22nd May 2019 3:10pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2237
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No problems, i had the reverse issue when fitting a 01' casing to my 02' which needed a little head scratching before i realised.
Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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22nd May 2019 4:00pm |
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