 | Home > Technical > Help! New loom - not starting |
 
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841  
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I've fitted a new loom (autosparks, not genuine) over the last couple of days. 300Tdi. I just fitted the main loom at this stage, plugged into the existing engine loom.
Got it finished today; turned the key; the starter churned away but no start. So I had a little think and added a separate power supply to the fuel solenoid. Engine started fine, and then wouldn't stop on the key - had to disconnect the power to the solenoid. The loom isn't fully connected (cigar lighter; radio and rear wash switch not connected; some of the clocks; interior lights) but other stuff is working like the hazards; horn; sidelights; main beam. How does this circuit go? What else is involved that I would need to check current to? Obviously the ignition switch itself is working, but how does the current get from there to the fuel solenoid? I know there's a starter relay - what does it do? Any help gratefully received - as at the moment, I'm not going very far! Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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31st Mar 2019 7:32pm |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
electrical circuit diagrams TDI 300
see page starting and charging |
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31st Mar 2019 7:47pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841
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Thanks very much.
The 300tdi circuit shown has things like an ECU, an alarm, EGR, diagnostic sockets - my car has none of those things. Do I just 'ignore' them - or is there another version of the diagram somewhere showing the basic circuit? Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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31st Mar 2019 8:11pm |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
Description & operation for the TDI 300 circuit diagram
https://1drv.ms/b/s!AtZSoWFHDgnGkmVWHfSGr8ELD7XM |
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31st Mar 2019 8:48pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841
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Thanks DS.
I really don't mean to sound ungrateful, but that last link is 270 pages long. I don't doubt there is lots of useful info there, and probably some clues to help me, but I was hoping for something a bit more direct, like: "If it starts when the fuel solenoid is given an alternative power supply, then you need to check why the solenoid isn't getting power through the loom. On an early 300tdi Defender it's supplied via the starter solenoid..." or something else like that. Actually, the way I feel now I think I will be calling an auto-spark in the morning. This sort of thing could bring me to a halt for days and weeks. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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31st Mar 2019 9:31pm |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
1. ( added a separate power supply to the fuel solenoid)  check that you have 12v supply to engine bay end of the fuel solenoid wiring with the ignition switch in pos 2, wire colour white or black dependent on witch loom type you are using
2. (wouldn't stop on the key ) this 12v back feed from D+ or IND termal on ALT and the wiring that feeds back up to the ignition switch white wiring and indcat that diode is not in place see wiring diagram at bottom in between ( YN) yellow - brown wire and ( NY ) brown - yellow wire .  Click image to enlarge |
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3rd Apr 2019 10:06am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841
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DorsetSmith, thanks very much indeed for coming back on this. I appreciate it.
This is now fixed. I do like to work through problems myself, because you always learn from the effort, but in this instance I just needed the car going. With electrics that you can't "see" I knew I could be chasing my tail for days so after footering about some more on Monday, I just 'gave in' and called an auto-electrician who was very local to me. As it happened he was having a quiet morning and was out within 30 minutes. Fixed for £60. What was it? I'm almost too embarrased to say. It was nothing very 'technical' after all, and entirely my own 'fault'. About 10 years ago, I had the old loom out of the car to change the bulkhead. As I was removing electrical connections I was labelling them: hazard switch right; hazard switch left/upper; etc etc. I did the same with the ignition switch: lower right; lower left; upper right; upper left. That old labelling was still in place when I had the two looms side by side on the bench, so I just copied it across to the new loom. So far so good - and it worked in most instances. However when I labelled the ignition switch wiring last time, I must have been doing it from the perspective of being 'behind' the switch. Then, this time, I connected them on the basis of being in front of the switch, and using the car's 'right' and 'left'.. That meant they were just the wrong way round. 
If nothing had happened when I turned the key, I would maybe have looked at that, but by sheer chance the 'wrong way' I connected it still created a circuit that energised the starter relay, and allowed the starter motor to spin. So, numpty here assumed the ignition switch was correctly connected and doing its job. It took the auto-spark about 10 minutes to figure out that the ignition switch wiring was wrong, by playing with the connections on the old switch. Once he connected it properly I heard the relays all clicking properly before the engine fired and stopped on the key. Sorted. So while I do know my left from my right, that all depends where you're standing. Very simple lesson for me, but one I probably wouldn't have got to without outside, expert assistance. I meant to update this last night, but the weather b*gg*r*d up the ferry timetable and I found myself away from home unexpectedly. On the plus side I have learnt that there is a friendly local auto-spark very close to me, and also learnt by watching him work. So, as I said, I do appreciate the continued interest and support. Thanks DS.  I feel a little guilty that you've gone to some trouble and it was my own simple mistake. Donald
1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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3rd Apr 2019 11:52am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
that's ok
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3rd Apr 2019 1:00pm |
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