 | Home > Td5 > Clutch Pedal adjustment. |
 
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5695  
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Adjust the pedal with the nuts labled number 2 in the pic.
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18th Mar 2019 7:54am |
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 932  
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Yes to your question and I agree with Landy Andy. BTW an obscure factoid... some early Td5s have that screw thing on the pedal box. Good luck in your adjusting 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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18th Mar 2019 10:56am |
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| Lrd300 Member Since: 15 Dec 2013 Location: Mscala Posts: 22  
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Thanks for your replies.
So the bottom screw needs no adjustment ? |
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19th Mar 2019 5:48am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
So the bottom screw needs no adjustment ? No
just the nuts labled number 2 in the pic. |
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19th Mar 2019 7:34am |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5695
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The adjustment screw is not there on later pedal boxes.
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19th Mar 2019 8:05am |
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| Bongo1 Member Since: 02 Nov 2018 Location: Cheshire Posts: 815 
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But how ? My height is right but to much travel doing it with the nuts |
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9th Sep 2020 11:45am |
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| Vogler Member Since: 02 Nov 2014 Location: Brussels Posts: 309  
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You might want to check if part of the travel isn't due to wear of the hole in the pedal arm that the pin at no2 goes through.
It does in our Td5. I haven't disassembled it, but the hole is definitely larger than the pin so I only assume that it is wear. During the first part of the travel only the pedal moves and nothing else. Then it catches the pin, with a small amount of free travel before you feel the cylinder engage. Hope that this explanation is clear. Antares Treadwell, a MY06 110 Td5 in Chawton White |
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9th Sep 2020 12:37pm |
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| thinman21 Member Since: 27 Jan 2020 Location: Nottingham Posts: 11 
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Had a similar problem when I did mine - turned out to be air trapped in the pipes between the new master and slave cylinder.
If I remember I cut a length of wood to jam the pedal down and pushed it against the seat - and left it over the weekend. Theory is the bubbles work their way our to the master cylinder reservoir at the top. That meant the travel on the pedal before pressure felt about right under foot from the top pedal position (think I have something like 10mm play). BTW, bottom bolt is the pedal stop adjustment - stops the pedal hitting the floor so wherever it is currently, is probably about right if you're just missing hitting the carpets when you press it all the way down. |
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2nd Oct 2020 2:38pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372 
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I've heeard the "wedge the pedal" tale many times, and I'd love for someone to explain to me how they think it can possibly work!
With the pedal released, the hydraulic system is unpressurised and there is nothing to stop the free migration of any trapped air bubbles from the pipework through the master cylinder into the reservoir, provided that there are no high spots along the way. With the pedal pressed, the system is pressurised and the seal in the master cylinder is held tightly against the cylinder bore making it impossible for anything to pass from the pipework back into the reservoir. Unless you have a defective master cylinder it is therefore totally impossible for any air to migrate past the seal. The only way it would be possible would be if the master cylinder seals were leaking, in which case you'd find in the morning that the clutch was in (engaged) even though the pedal was pressed down still. The only way in which I could see it having any effect is in the case of a bubble lodged in a high spot which moves towards the slave cylinder when the pedal is pressed and back again when released. It is, I suppose, possible that wedging the pedal down would allow the bubble gradually to make its way back to the high spot with the pedal pressed, and then be ejected from the high spot back towards the master cylinder when the pedal is released. In this case however I would expect it still to remain in the pipework when the pedal is next cycled. It is hard to see any technical explanation which supports this technique! |
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2nd Oct 2020 2:59pm |
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| lightning Member Since: 23 Apr 2009 Location: High Peak, Derbyshire Posts: 2757
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The TD5 clutch hydraulics are almost impossible to bleed properly, l've spent hours trying, but there is a method that works perfectly.
First bleed the system as best as you can. The clutch will work but there will be lost motion in the hydraulics. Then, yes, wedge the pedal down overnight. This does NOT force the air up to the master cylinder. What it does is, cause the trapped air to be absorbed into the brake fluid. lf you do this the clutch will work better, but the lost motion will return after a while. There's a third step you need to do. After you've had the pedal wedged down overnight (or all day) you need to immediately BLEED THE SYSTEM AGAIN This replaces the fluid/air mix with new fluid, and no trapped air whatsoever, and believe me, your clutch will never have been better. Try it and prove me wrong. l've now done it on three TD5 clutch systems and each has remained absolutely perfect afterwards |
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13th Oct 2020 9:38pm |
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