 | Home > Td5 > Downpipe Removal |
 
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 930   
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WD40 is a relatively useless penetrant, even their “penetrating” oil is not that good. Get a better pentrating oil like liquid wrench, or use heat.
Good luck.  2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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15th Mar 2019 3:27pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5842  
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From memory, I accessed mine from underneath with a long extension and a flexible knuckle with a 13mm socket. Maybe it would work better with a hot exhaust (but don't burn yourself) 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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15th Mar 2019 3:31pm |
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| bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2147 
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Bolts on mine needed a 19mm spanner!
Use a spanner. Smack it with a hammer. Use Plusgas. Instagram @defender_ventures Empire Tuning - Agent |
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15th Mar 2019 5:29pm |
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| Mdm Member Since: 11 Sep 2013 Location: Sunny Lancashire Posts: 1589
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tyr getting the engine hot
try real penetrating oil. any of the good brands are ok. try freeze sprays after heat wd40 isint any good for much on a lr these days we use long extensions and get them from ground level and heat if you have access to oxy acetylene good luck |
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15th Mar 2019 7:13pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5842
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My bad, yup 19mm would be more like it 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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16th Mar 2019 8:50am |
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| Emptywallet Member Since: 03 Mar 2018 Location: Alresford Posts: 31 
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Thanks everyone.
I have tried and failed using all the above methods other than oxy acetylene. My little gas blow torch is like Peeing in the wind with so much iron around to soak up the heat. All I have managed to do is round off the nut a little (15mm on mine). Looks like it will have to book it in to a professional. |
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17th Mar 2019 10:34am |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2081 
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How did you get on in the end Emptywallet? I hope you got it sorted.
Does anyone know the thread size/pitch for said studs on the turbo to down pipe connection, as in anticipation of doing the same job myself shortly, I'd ideally like to be prepared with 3 new nuts. I think the std nuts are steel flange head but I'll probably be opting for brass/copper full nuts. |
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8th May 2019 9:22pm |
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| benniferj Member Since: 20 Oct 2016 Location: Basingstoke Posts: 361 
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I used 2 half inch drive extension bars joined together on the nut most inwards towards the engine from underneath with a small Dewalt impact gun. For the other 2 I managed to get the impact gun in from the top around the manifold. Loosen off the one nearest the block first as its the hardest to get onto. I think one bar was a foot long and another about 4". Did this last week, I removed the gearbox crossmember to do the job as well.
And yes WD40 penetrant is rubbish. |
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9th May 2019 6:45am |
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| gtmotorsport Member Since: 29 Jun 2016 Location: Cornwall Posts: 97 
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I was in a similar situation a few weeks ago and resorted to cutting my original down pipe to allow my to remove the turbo and manifold from the top. Being prepared for the worse I pre-ordered all new studs and nuts for the turbo and resorted to slicing down the side of each nut holding the down pipe on and then replacing all the studs, etc.
I realise a little extreme of an approach, but I had various attempts previously and failed. I also fitted a de-webbed and skimmed manifold at the same time in addition to renewing the manifold / head studs and nuts (Wurth kit). |
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9th May 2019 8:05am |
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| Emptywallet Member Since: 03 Mar 2018 Location: Alresford Posts: 31
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Screbble I hate to admit it, but I gave up and got a local garage to sort it. It took them 2.5 hours and was an absolute b@st@rd! End result is worth it though. I also removed the centre box and had a Stage 2 remap from Storm. Car sounds lovely and not too loud. Performance is also in a different world now. It is not fast by today’s standard (why would I want it to be) but is far more flexible and a lot less terrifying when joining motorways, etc. |
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9th May 2019 12:26pm |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2081
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Glad the end result was worth it Emptywallet
I don't blame you for letting someone else enjoy the pain. Gtmotorsport - do you recall the thread size of the 3 studs/nuts securing the turbo to the down pipe? |
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9th May 2019 6:33pm |
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| gtmotorsport Member Since: 29 Jun 2016 Location: Cornwall Posts: 97
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Screbble - If I recall correctly they were a stock M10 threads as I had to drill and re-tap them on the turbo. I purchased genuine suds, but they certainly aren't cheap as studs go.
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9th May 2019 8:20pm |
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| lightning Member Since: 23 Apr 2009 Location: High Peak, Derbyshire Posts: 2726
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My studs came off fine but what a job to get the downpipe out between the engine and chassis! The old one seemed to fiddle out quite quickly but l spent ages trying to get the new (genuine LR) one back in and it just wouldn’t fit through. There’s obviously just one place that it fits.
Eventually and near to tears of frustration l used a scissor jack to move the engine very slightly and after another twenty minutes of messing about it finally went through the gap. |
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12th May 2019 7:43am |
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