 | Home > My Defender > My 90 V8 Project |
 
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227   
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Not many pictures to show from the weekend other than the following:
Completed the wiring between the seatbox and the various lights on the roof (rear work lights, rear bed light and light bars). Wiring runs through the glands in the truckcab back panel, down the inside of the back panel to the front of the tub then into a piece of convoluted tubing which runs into the seatbox through a couple of bulkhead fittings (before i hoovered the ridiculous amount of swarf out of the seatbox):  Click image to enlarge I have also fitted the ECU and associated relays, conenctors etc into a YRM centre tray. A large grommet allows the wires to run off to the engine via some 1" convoluted tube and another length of convoluted tube provides a path for the wires that run from the bulkhead loom (via the seatbox) to plug in: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Also fitted an anderson connector behind the passenger seat and ran some 35mm2 cables into the seatbox through some grommets: Click image to enlarge We have also reinstalled the rest of the engine loom which is all wrapped in convoluted tube and various T-pieces, Y-pieces and finishers. The bulkhead loom is back in and I am making my way though terminating the remaining connections in the seatbox and checking all of the functions. Everything works as intended so far with the exception of the passenger side door switch which I will have to investigate. It was working during testing off the vehicle so I assume the wire has been broken during installation. Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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14th Feb 2019 12:37pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227
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Well it is alive! I was dubious as to whether it would start again straight away after a full stripdown and rewire of the engine loom including re crimping all the terminals and replacing all the connector housings. To my surprise, after confirming that the laptop was talking to the ECU and no faults were evident on Rovergauge, it fired straight up!
Slight issue with the alternator it seems. In my haste to fire the engine up a few weeks back after initially stripping the engine loom back, i forgot that I had connected the alternator upto the battery. Of course there was no charge warning light connected so it seems I have fried the regulator unit on the back of the alternator  This was confirmed as I was testing the various circuits and noticed strange things happening. The L terminal on the alternator was actually back feeding around 9v into the switched side of the ignition whilst it was turned on which was causing some strange symptoms. There is also no functioning charge warning light, the L terminal is permanently at battery voltage, regardless of engine running. Have ordered a new rectifier unit rather than replacing the whole alternator. Hopefully it is the correct one.
Some other issues identified: -The remote mounted oil pressure sender/switch does not get a satisfactory earth through the anodized fittings and stainless braided hose. I will have to find an alternative earthing method. -The toggle switches for the fuel pumps seem to be the wrong way around, the LP pump operates the HP one and vice-versa. I need to work out which connector I have got the wires confused on. -The new battery clamp does not fit as intended as the underseat fuse box is in the way. Need to shorten the threads so i can fit the bar over the top of the battery as I have done on my own 110. -The wire for the passenger door switch has got damaged and needs replacing. -I need to revise the connection of the relay which allows the headlights to be remotely switched via the alarm as I have connected it to the wrong feed (not the permanent live I intended to use). -Re-configure how the temp gauge is wired as I do not like the ROW method of going through the Td5 speedo as it masks the true temperature until it is already far to hot! I have done some calculations and bench testing of the gauge position with different resistances and am not going to use a VDO sensor with a 47ohm calibration resistor to give me a sensible real world temperature display on the TD5 gauge. Other than that, I am almost done with the wiring and am quite pleased that despite major wiring surgery to the main loom, scratch built front and rear looms, a host of additions and merging of the hotwire EFI system there are no other issues 
The passenger side seatbox complete (minus battery clamp) now including relays, TD5 fusebox, battery, isolator and connections to the Anderson connector behind the seat for charging and jump starting duties: Click image to enlarge Cheers, Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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19th Feb 2019 12:26pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227
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Stupidly didnt really take any photos again this weekend. Managed to get the bonnet on and after much cursing and filing of the slam panel got it to open and close correctly:
Click image to enlarge New barrel fitted into the original bonnet lock works nicely too. We finished installing the dashboard and all of the TD5 rubber matting which makes the interior a lot nicer place. Put the doors back on now the insides are mostly back together. Fitted a new alternator regulator which now produces exactly the same none functional charge warning light and no charge behaviour so looks like a new alternator will be required 
A big parcel arrived from SP4x4 this morning with some new door cards and other fittings. If i get chance to get down to the workshop next weekend the doors will hopefully be rebuilt. MOT time is now looking fairly immanent  02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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4th Mar 2019 12:01pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10742 
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The mot will be quicker than you think
Great work and progress being done  1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.
Keeper. Clayton. |
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6th Mar 2019 9:32pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227
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Cheers!
Going to try and finish building up the doors this Saturday.
Also need to investigate some issues with the hot idle. When I ran it upto temperature a couple of weeks ago it ran faultlessly but last weekend the idle starts hunting as it warms up until it eventually dies. I am hoping its related to the battery going flat as the alternator is still doing noting despite a new regulator being fitted. Have got a new one to try this weekend. I am also going to go back over the usual things and check for air leaks, ignition timing, base idle setting and adjust the CO if i have time to move the junk out of the way to get it outside. Insurance is due to start shortly so will be looking to MOT it in a couple of weeks to get a bit of mileage on it. Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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7th Mar 2019 4:11pm |
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7905 
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Great work!! Can't wait to see more photos! James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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7th Mar 2019 8:18pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227
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Well a bit more progress this weekend. New 100A Denso alternator arrived and fitted, thankfully the charge warning light now functions correctly and the charging voltage is 14.2v:
Click image to enlarge The remote VDO sensor for the oil pressure gauge and light did not get a good enough earth through the braided hose (note to self - anodized fittings have surprisingly good electrical insulation properties). Therefore I had to fit and earth connection to it. I did this by simply clamping a terminal against the body using the P-Clip. Click image to enlarge That pretty much signs off all of the jobs completed in the engine bay: Click image to enlarge Its a full house in the relay box. There are quite a few redundant fuse slots in the fuse boxes though as they were originally destined for AC, ABS and TD5 engine management: Click image to enlarge The bucket seats are both fitted now. Not much spare space but they are a nice fit and both tilt forwards to allow access to the storage on the bulkhead. I also surprisingly have some headroom at 6'6"! Click image to enlarge The dash is a little tatty but is at least all together now if in need of a good clean: Click image to enlarge Fitted the TD5 bulkhead, floor and seatbox matting which really neatens up the interior. It means that the chequerplate floor panels are now a little unnecessary but never mind: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The doors are back on (and filty). Panel gaps are fairly average but it looks like they seal all the way around. I have cleaned up and fitted new lock barrels to the original latches. Click image to enlarge Got it out into the fresh air breifly too. Had a bit of a drive around the yard. The clutch is terrible, seems like only 1" of the pedal travel actually does anything. Hopefully it just needs rebleeding. The engine idle is still poor when hot. It bounces around between 1000rpm and 500rpm and eventually stalls. We have ordered a new OE TVR idle control valve in the hope that the cheapo one we have fitted is just being lazy and over compensating. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge We fitted new window channels and plastic spacers to both doors which was actually an easier task than i thought. Drivers window and mechanism is in and working nicely. We ran into a sticking point with the passenger one as the metal channel on the bottom of the glass was made more of rust than metal so have had to order a new one. The door cards from SP4x4 look nice quality but sadly dont fit as well as hoped. The repairs to the door frames have left one of the brackets slightly further out than orignally which stops the driver's card from sitting flush. Annoyingly we ordered all new card clips and snap sacs, only to find that these SP cards just have holes in for screws! As each hole more or less perfectly lines up with existing 7mm holes in the door frame we cant just use screws. Decided the neatest solution is to fit M5 rivnuts to the door frame and fit the card using button head machine screws. Didn't get this finished though as we totally ran out of patience. MOT is now booked for the 29th and insurance is sorted. Not too many jobs to tick off beforehand now. Cheers, Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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13th Mar 2019 12:12pm |
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| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3674 
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Great work. 👍
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13th Mar 2019 1:45pm |
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7905
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Great work! Nearly there by the looks of it. I might be slightly biased but great choice in rim
Are the Toyo 255x85R16? I'm going to kick myself if they are.  James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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13th Mar 2019 3:06pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227
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Cheers, yeah they are 255/85 Toyos. Went with them as they were slightly more cost effective than the BFG KM2s on my 110. They are a pleasing tread pattern though
I think the current preMOT job list is: Replace IACV Check CO trim Check ignition timing Try and get a stable idle Fit passenger window and mech Bleed clutch Double check all the bolts Adjust the tailgate Align the headlights Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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13th Mar 2019 5:45pm |
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7905
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255's look great, kicking myself not going with them now! James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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13th Mar 2019 8:39pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10742
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You sure are nearly there now with not much on the " to do " list and most important thing is that you have booked the MOT, great news
1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.
Keeper. Clayton. |
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13th Mar 2019 9:40pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227
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Well, things are not looking hopeful for the MOT this Friday. Fitted the new idle control valve on Friday and connected up the exhaust gas analyser. Initially idle is showing CO levels of 10-11%. Adjusted the trim screw on the AFM down to as low as it will go and still getting 6-8% CO and idle all over the place.
Checked the ignition timing, spot on 8deg BTDC and advance working fine, Cleaned AFM Cleaned out and resealed plenum Checked TPS, coolant and fuel temperature sensors Taking the crank breather hose off the throttle body just gets the CO down into the 3% range (should be causing a lean mix as this allows air in after the AFM but before the throttle butterfly). We have tried a different ECU and AFM with some positive effect on the idle but it does not seem to be the issue with CO levels. The only thing i can now think of is fuel pressure. Obviously we have a fairly complex fuel feed set up, with two pumps and a swirl pot. We did check the pressure on Friday but using a push on bike tyre pressure gauge which makes it a bit tricky. I think we had 38ish PSI without the engine running and low 30s with it running which might be a little high. I have a spare fpr from another engine which I will try and am going to pick up a proper pressure gauge. Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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25th Mar 2019 10:28am |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10742
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O no, i do hope you get it sorted before it goes in for it's mot
1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.
Keeper. Clayton. |
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25th Mar 2019 8:30pm |
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