Home > Puma (Tdci) > Found a hole |
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Michaelkan Member Since: 19 Dec 2018 Location: Bath Posts: 149 |
Same on mine as well. But tiny holes. Got a tube of body filler from Halfords. Fill the hole up, sand it down and touch up paint of black. Easy DIY.
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11th Feb 2019 5:21pm |
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sweatysock Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 283 |
Well maybe an easy fix if they are small holes but I sense the corrosion will continue unless more radical action is taken.
Have a look at this thread that I started for a bit more info.....hope it helps https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic65698.html I have decided to get a more permanent fix so have been talking to my local guy to sort. Parts are minimal (£40 ish) but labour is high, maybe a day to 2 days. I am taking the view that I want it right hence the action I am taking but get that if your current situation is only small holes then a temp fix is attractive. Good luck Sweatysock ------------- 110 CSW TDCI (Puma) 2007 |
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11th Feb 2019 10:06pm |
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fraserfyoung Member Since: 09 Feb 2019 Location: Edinburgh, Scotland Posts: 9 |
Sweatysock, thanks for the link - looks pretty similar to what you have, just abit less.
Spoke to my local Landy garage who specialise in Defenders (Engine710, Edinburgh), who are going to have a look at it for me. I think this is the part: https://yrmit.co.uk/product/rear-body-moun...series-23/ Have you bought one? |
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11th Feb 2019 10:30pm |
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sweatysock Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 283 |
Hi fraserfyoung, the part you show is certainly one option, I have not bought my part as will let the garage source it. Be interesting to comparing costs and nature of repair when known Sweatysock
------------- 110 CSW TDCI (Puma) 2007 |
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12th Feb 2019 12:07pm |
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donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841 |
I had this part swapped as part of a chassis swap - so not the same job as you guys are doing.
But I thought I'd just post to say that once you do get it fixed, be sure to use some sort of spacer/membrane between the steel of the chassis brackets and the aluminium of the body. You probably know that's good advice for any place in your Landy where steel and aluminium meet. In this instance, ask the repairing garage to do it while they're at the job, as access is a bit of a pain afterwards. There are some photos on my 'tinkering/rebuild' thread (linked in the signature panel) which show just what can happen - when the aluminium just disappears into a white powder. When I got the chassis swapped, I did ask that pvc membranes/gaskets be used at critical body mounts, and the actual result was a bit 'hit and miss' - some done, some not. The ones we're talking about here - the brackets from the crossmember to the body weren't. I'm not that bothered about these ones at the moment as I'll have to replace the tub floor at some point in the next few months. Once the floor is out it will be much easier to access behind that panel, so I'll be removing the bolts and putting something between the metals. IMHO doing whatever you can to stop galvanic corrosion between alu and steel is one of the best things you can do to improve the longevity and look of your Landy. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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12th Feb 2019 1:03pm |
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hornet Member Since: 04 Jan 2010 Location: Western Europe Posts: 361 |
Interesting, also i have a hole there. Where does it come from, is it electrochemical corrosion because of the steel screw(s)? I think the elimination is one thing, cause finding another. Sorry, question is already answered! |
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12th Feb 2019 1:16pm |
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sweatysock Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 283 |
Hi fraserfyoung did you get around to sorting this? I have come up against a blocker in that my repairers don't do TIG welding for aluminium so I need to find another provider.
Does anyone know of a garage who might take on this repair in the Warwickshire area near Stratford Upon Avon? Sweatysock ------------- 110 CSW TDCI (Puma) 2007 |
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28th Feb 2019 1:50pm |
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fraserfyoung Member Since: 09 Feb 2019 Location: Edinburgh, Scotland Posts: 9 |
Hi sweatysock, funny enough, I just got the quote for it this morning. £1350, inc VAT. Which I think is reasonable, given the work involved.
As you said before the part is only £50, but to re-fit it means removing the body, drilling out old part, paint the new piece, then re-assemble. Also getting part of the door, the 2 rear quarters and the cross-member painted. From the £1350, it's £500 for the painting and 10 hours labour, plus parts and VAT. Not sure about down your way, I'm in Edinburgh. Sorry. |
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28th Feb 2019 2:58pm |
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sweatysock Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 283 |
Thanks fraserfyoung, good luck and thanks for the info
so my question to the wider members please - Does anyone know of a garage who might take on this repair in the Warwickshire area near Stratford Upon Avon? Sweatysock ------------- 110 CSW TDCI (Puma) 2007 |
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28th Feb 2019 3:31pm |
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