 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > 13 plate tdci 2.2 over heating garage can’t think why |
 
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out the header tank, is there anything else you guys can think of that is causing the problem with the coolant not circulating around.
| Dreamweapon Member Since: 19 Dec 2016 Location: Hessische Odenwald Posts: 55   
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Since it sounds like you have gone through everything else it could be the water-pump, some of the cheaper aftermarket ones have a plastic impeller which tends to disintegrate, don't know if that is the case with the Original Parts.
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30th Jan 2019 2:03pm |
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| naughtynickp1969 Member Since: 30 Jan 2019 Location: Broadwindsor Posts: 3  
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They have had the pump off and that seems all ok no damage, I have read some horror stories of people having to change the whole engine, we are all scratching our heads as we can’t think of what else it could be. 👍
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30th Jan 2019 2:11pm |
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| gazman Member Since: 17 Aug 2015 Location: Liverpool Posts: 652 
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Have they done a pressure test to make sure it's nothing like a cracked block?
I had a pressure cap gp once that used to make a motorbike overheat as it never built pressure and always had a air lock 2014 - current ..... 2003 defender td5 90 (my car) 2009 - current .... 2005 zx10r |
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30th Jan 2019 2:54pm |
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| Swine&Small Member Since: 20 Mar 2017 Location: Norfolk Posts: 1223
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My Moggie had a similar problem and after testing virtually everything it turned out to be the rad cap.
Fitted a new one...problem gone  1983 Series 3 Pick up in Marine Blue
1967 Morris Traveller 1966 Morris Convertible 2012 VW T5 Camper Quod Abundat Non Obstat. |
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30th Jan 2019 3:00pm |
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| hornet Member Since: 04 Jan 2010 Location: Western Europe Posts: 361 |
Unfortunately, there is a real chance that the cylinder head, although skimmed and pressed down, still has a leakage. There are temperature-dependent leaks (malignant). That means tight in cold and leaky in warm condition. My recommendation in your case would be in fact a new or used head at least to test. On the other hand, the block can also have a hairline crack. |
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30th Jan 2019 4:03pm |
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| naughtynickp1969 Member Since: 30 Jan 2019 Location: Broadwindsor Posts: 3
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Guys thanks for all your points and I will look into them all and please everybody keep the ideas and your advice coming in thanks 👍👍👍
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30th Jan 2019 8:05pm |
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| CaptainDan Member Since: 14 Apr 2017 Location: Victoria Posts: 53  
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Hi Sorry to hear that you are having problems with your 2.2 l fully understand your pain as I have just got my MY13 130 back on the road after 9 months of trying to track down the problem. I first posted last year if you want to read
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62320.html The first repair cost me $8,500.00 AUD and I ended up with the same problem 19k kms later, in hindsight I wish I had not spent that money and just replaced the entire engine which I have now done it would have been the cheaper option from the start but I like most have 3 degrees in hindsight. I bought the new engine from a transit spares place in the UK which I can highly recommend for a fraction of the cost of what a long motor would have cost me in Australia. LR quoted me $20k with the UK mob selling me a brand new 2.2 for $4,500. I know this is not what you want to hear but I wanted to share my recent experience and hopefully save you wasting your money on trying to repair your original motor. You need to get to the fork in the road quickly and decide if it is worth repairing or not. I spent a total of $20,000 AUD last year alone in repairs and one thing or another. if you want the contact details for the UK Transit mob just let me know and I will send you their details Daniel |
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4th Feb 2019 11:47am |
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