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ozzie1989



Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey
Optimill Help
Hi all, wondering if anyone has the Optimill Race products window blocks in 'new grey' against a grey Defender? If so could I see a pic please? I think black may be ok (as I have other black features) but also quite like the grey, I just can't judge from their website picture. Black photos welcome too.

Also going to get the rear door hinges, anyone fitted those also? I am hoping I will not need a spare wheel carrier after fitting these as they claim.

Thanks Thumbs Up Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)
Post #750469 10th Jan 2019 11:37pm
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2638

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
Personally wish i didn't go with optimil.

Have door handles (without keys) and front and rear door hinges,

Door hinges squeak / squeal like mad and the handles often the button gets stuck so im locked out the car or then locked inside - they did offer a replacement bushing but it's a major faff to take the door handle back off post it etc. Neutral
Post #750482 11th Jan 2019 6:39am
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Sulisuli



Member Since: 30 Oct 2016
Location: South west
Posts: 4795

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
I have a lot of Optimill products and I’m a big fan, only recently fitted the rear door hinges and I’m very impressed, well engineered and I fitted them for the same reason you want to. Personally I would recommend them.

Click image to enlarge
 2015 HT XS 90
2008 SVX 90
2000 XS TD5 90
Post #750484 11th Jan 2019 6:45am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17338

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Likeomg wrote:
...
Door hinges squeak / squeal like mad ...


Have you adjusted the doors correctly? The body on a Defender flexes with the result that unless the doors are adjusted to close tightly enough the seals will squeal like canoists in Deliverance, but this isn't the fault of the hinges. When I fitted my Optimill hinges it took me about three days in total to adjust the doors correctly (and this involved enlarging the holes in some of the B and C posts for the strikers, as well as shimming the strikers) but now all the doors shut with a reassuring clunk, shut tightly, and don#t squeak or squeal at all.

It might be worth a try, I found the squeaking to be extremely irritating!
Post #750493 11th Jan 2019 8:51am
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X4CAC



Member Since: 30 Apr 2018
Location: Midlands
Posts: 212

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey
I also regret going with the Optimill bonnet hinges and will be changing them out at some point.

I rang them to ask what grey the 'new' grey options were... not very helpfully I was told.... grey. I even asked if it had been based on a land rover grey but they couldn't help.

For me they aren't a close enough match to Corris so they annoy me every time I see them. I also don't think quality wise they are the best... when I got them one of the holes had to be re-drilled as the screw didn't fit and when they get wet one of them has a weird mark on it. If I was to pick again I would probably go with Gore as I like the look of their products and I think they are comparatively well priced.


Click image to enlarge
Post #750495 11th Jan 2019 8:58am
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ozzie1989



Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey
Thanks all for your input.

Mine is Stornoway Grey so seeing that picture I think the colour difference would annoy me too. Perhaps the black would look better, but then putting black windscreen blocks is more in your face than the bonnet hinges Confused

I'm even more confused now, mainly on the windscreen blocks. I'd get away with black rear door hinges as I have a black tyre and crossmember Laughing

I suppose I could go standard blocks and paint them, probably half the cost of the aluminium ones I guess? Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)
Post #750606 11th Jan 2019 7:46pm
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X4CAC



Member Since: 30 Apr 2018
Location: Midlands
Posts: 212

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey
PowerfulUK sell the orig blocks, £32 a pair... I've just bought a set myself with the intention to paint them body colour. I figure if they get painted properly they may last slightly longer than the originals... if they don't then for me the only options are to go black or go to gore and get a set of theirs which can also be painted.

For something so small it's certainly giving me a massive headache Rolling Eyes

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-of-Genuine...2749.l2649
Post #750657 11th Jan 2019 11:38pm
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ozzie1989



Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey
Thanks for the link, good price too Thumbs Up

Anything different regards painting the aluminium? I always thought they were steel for some reason...

Also any recommendations on places to get paint, assume Halfords would be ok? Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)
Post #750660 11th Jan 2019 11:57pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20294

United Kingdom 
Etch primer for aluminium. Thumbs Up Or epoxy. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #750662 12th Jan 2019 1:17am
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ozzie1989



Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey
This has got me thinking, if they are aluminium already then they are not likely to be affected other than the surface corrosion, could I not just cover them?

https://www.powerfuluk.com/land-rover-defe...astic.html

Whistle

Have to say, I like the Gore stuff a lot. Just emailed them to ask if their hinges are strong enough, in their opinion, to omit fitting a wheel carrier. Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)
Post #750723 12th Jan 2019 2:50pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
The benefit of a spare wheel carrier is that it takes the weight off the door rather than the hinges. The old style rear doors were notorious for fractures in the steel frames, particularly when older and a bit of rust had set in.

The newer doors (post '05), whilst not indestructible, are much better. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #750726 12th Jan 2019 3:38pm
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ozzie1989



Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey
Hi Darren, I posted a thread a while back and it was this forum that pointed me in the direction of the hinges.

Basically if I add a spare wheel carrier, I'd have to ditch my Southdown guard and tow bar in favour of a NAS step in order to continue using my bike carrier. Whilst I do love the NAS step it was starting to get very expensive.

Someone pointed out the hinges and I figured that was the easy solution. I've thought about it over and over and yes I agree the SWC is the better option in the long run I suppose... Big Cry Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)
Post #750742 12th Jan 2019 5:17pm
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8580

United Kingdom 
Hi Ozzie, I am a bit confused why you say if you fit a spare wheel carrier you will have to do away with your Southdown guard. We have a Southdown guard on our red 110 and a SWC.

Works with the Southdown towball as well.

So what is the issue with your Southdown guard and your bike carrier? Do you not have the spare wheel on rear door?


Brendan
Post #750748 12th Jan 2019 5:37pm
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ozzie1989



Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey
Hi Brendan! Hope you are well Thumbs Up

It's not the guard, it's the fact that my bike carrier only just clears the spare wheel now, without the SWC fitted. I remember from my old 90 it only just fitted with a NAS step and SWC.

I suppose I could use a spacer but then I'd have have to mount it separately to the towball. I suppose I could have a new bracket made also, that sits further back, just for bike carrier use.

Whilst I'm at it, how do you stop your Southdown guard/towbar rattling. I find unless I've got a heavy trailer on it does my head in! Laughing Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)
Post #750754 12th Jan 2019 5:58pm
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