 | Home > Td5 > Need to change the serpentine belt, any tips? |
 
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6772   
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I did mine the other week but I didn't bother taking the fan off. A bit of poking with a pry bar and the belt can be fed around easily
 Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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19th Feb 2017 2:44pm |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2179  
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Resurrecting this thread for obvious reasons 
I have the tensioner on its way to me, but am I interpreting (see above) that I need a particular socket for the mounting bolt? If so, anyone got a link/spec as I'll get one today
I wouldn't mind but it failed straight after I changed the belt - probably didn't like being pulled/twisted to its full tension after all this time 
Thankfully the fan was easy to get off to change the belt so it should be straight forward - famous last words... |
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27th Jul 2018 4:06pm |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2179
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Anyone know the part number for the TD5 idler pulley (2004 with air con)?
I thought I might as well change it when fitting the new tensioner. Genuine LR tensioner on its way. Most sites are listing ERR6658 however some are saying that's without air con. Are they one and the same? Some sites are possibly getting their AC confused with their ACE (chance would be a fine thing...). Also, I was only intending to replace the pulley/bolt/washer rather than the cast bracket aswell. Anyone suggest otherwise? Cheers, Will |
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28th Jul 2018 1:13pm |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2179
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Managed to clean off enough crud to identify the part number of the complete unit - pulley and casting - ERR6949.
Duly ordered |
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28th Jul 2018 2:59pm |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2179
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Fitted the new tensioner and idler this morning (new belt was fitted last week). Getting ready for the annual trip to beautiful Dorset. 1/2 job taking it easy.
Genuine LR tensioner and belt spot on, but a word to the less wise (as many already know this), don't bother with an unbranded idler pulley and casting. The bearing was worse on the new one than the old one! 
The play between the inner and outer race was, well, shocking. Fortunately I had a new branded pulley and a new casting, so I made up a good one. The 'new' one is going back for obvious reasons. Having said that, I've still got a very slight 'chirp' on start up and switch off - and I just hope that it's nothing sinister as I prepare for the trip  |
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31st Jul 2018 11:14am |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6772
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Chirp on switch off could be the harmonic damper (crankshaft pulley) have a read of this.
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/CrankPulley.html Ray My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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31st Jul 2018 12:00pm |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2179
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That could very well be the culprit Ray
Looks like I'd better start saving up - as the new pulley doesn't come cheap (or chirp ).
That said, it's only a very slight chirp so I might get away with it being a winter job
Anyone on here completed this job on a Defender? If so, any pointers (although the link/thread above is very comprehensive). Obviously not having a 3/4 torque wrench might be something that means I'll let somebody else do the job, but other than that it looks straight forward. Famous last words... Thanks again Ray |
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31st Jul 2018 2:29pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6772
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I had mine done as it was causing a vibration at motorway speeds. It looked fine but when compared to the new one you could tell the rubber was going. The garage did it for me so can’t comment on how easy it is to do. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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31st Jul 2018 7:10pm |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2179
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What is this 'motorway speeds' witchcraft you speak of Ray
I doubt I'd be able to pick the crank pulley out as the culprit of noise/vibration at anything around 70mph
Thanks for the feedback, I can't imagine it being too expensive as its more a case of having the right tools than being anything too taxing looking at that thread/link you posted
I've seen a number of complete crank pulleys for less than £100 but I'm really genuinely concerned about some of the quality given recent experiences (fuel pump, idler pulley etc.). If any other forum members wish to share their experience of the job itself, and after market crank pulleys, then I'm all ears  |
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31st Jul 2018 7:17pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6772
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I went for an oem pulley, I think it was Quinton hazel but could be wrong as it was a while ago. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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31st Jul 2018 7:20pm |
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| rsms Member Since: 12 Jan 2013 Location: Home Posts: 36 
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Hello,
very usefull infos here. I also have to replace idler pulley on my 2002 TD5 (it is squeaking a lot...). I got new idler pulley with bracket (ERR 6949LR). Replacing looks straight forward - I just cant find the correct torque setting for tightening 3 pulley bracket bolts? Looked everywhere but no luck 
Does anyone have that info? Thanks |
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8th Jan 2019 5:49pm |
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| rsms Member Since: 12 Jan 2013 Location: Home Posts: 36
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I think there are three M8 x 1,25 bolts which fastens idler pulley bracket to the A/C support frame.
Does it sound ok to tighten the bolts to 25Nm? |
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9th Jan 2019 9:56pm |
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