 | Home > Td5 > Rear brakes - parts list |
 
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5697  
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I’d change flex brake pipes, and also not use stake nut, I would swap to the twin nut system. You will also need brake fluid, and brake cleaner for the job.
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19th Nov 2018 10:29pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1624  
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You might be struggling at that age because that’s when they swapped from Salisbury to Rover axles in the rear of 110s- check your axle and see what it is- Rover will look like the front on the diff pan.
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19th Nov 2018 10:33pm |
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| Notyalc Member Since: 27 Jul 2018 Location: Northumberland Posts: 160  
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I would also get new calliper bolts, you may find there are no heads left on the ones you have now.
That’s makes getting them out interesting... |
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23rd Nov 2018 6:33pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227 
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I have just done discs, pads and wheel bearings all round on my 110. I also used new disc to hub bolts.
Its a good idea to clean the drive flange threads and disc mounting threads with a tap too Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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23rd Nov 2018 6:48pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8025  
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depending on when last done it may be prudent to replace/regrease wheel bearings and replace the rear hub oil seal. i too would swap to the twin nut setup over the stake nut options. loctite needed if you dont have any. Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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23rd Nov 2018 8:18pm |
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| Vogler Member Since: 02 Nov 2014 Location: Brussels Posts: 309  
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It's also possible that you'll find wear on the stub axle and need to replace it along with bearings, oil seal and possibly new distance ring (the one thzt goes between the bearings). So you might want to take any possible delay into account in case you need to order parts. When I did the brakes on our 110 I ended up replacing one stub.
You'll risk spilling some one-shot grease because you need to undo the upper swivel temporarily, you might want to have some grease available. Pull the hub towards you when you do this to limit spillage. Mind that the holes of these bolts are open, so clean well around them to reduce the risk of sand getting into the CV joint. When you pull the hub there's quite some chance of dirt falling into it from the back, you'll probably need to clean the bearings if you don't replace them. I don't want to stir up the staked nut vs twin nut discussion, but still... I did change it too, but recently learned that the bearings in the later setup are closer to one another. As a consequence they benefit from the fact that they are a bit tighter. The later system (allegedly) also reduces the chance of vibrations that can disturb the ABS sensors, giving faults. On the other hand: if you replace the bearings, the new ones will settle/bed in and it is worth checking the wheels for any play in the next few thousand miles. If there is, than it is easier to check and adjust using the old system. I didn't have a lot experience at the time and must say that the youtube LRTV videos on the subject of brakes, bearings and prefloat/endfloat helped me a lot in gaining confidence to do it myself - I can't give him enough credit for the quality of his videos. You will also need two sizes of 12-pointed sockets or wrenches to undo the calipers and discs. Joris |
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24th Nov 2018 2:18am |
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| SteveK Member Since: 21 Jan 2015 Location: Bromsgrove Posts: 333 
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Interesting! My 2002 110 has a Rover rear diff! |
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26th Nov 2018 10:39pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1624
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Yep they swapped end of 01ish some have some don’t.
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27th Nov 2018 12:24am |
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| SteveK Member Since: 21 Jan 2015 Location: Bromsgrove Posts: 333
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That explains it! No end of confusion when the rear diff started leaking on mine!!
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27th Nov 2018 12:46am |
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