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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5804   
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Quick question. Is an in-situ engine refurb possible?
Mine is not running as smoothly as I think it should and with some mods planned for the new year (remap, intercooler etc), I was thinking of perhaps refurbing the engine at the same time. The aim would be to future proof the engine for the next 100k. However I wouldn't want to go to the expense of taking it out. I was thinking the obvious on an engine that is at 60k: All Belts All Hoses Gaskets Injectors New sensors where required Filters Remove and clean cyclinder head. Replace valves etc etc Is this viable/sensible? Is it worth doing? I've budget £1500-£2000 Monsieur Le Grenadier I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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2nd Nov 2018 10:45am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324 
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I'd suggest that all of that list is doable with the engine in-situ. Most of it is probably worthwhile too, but I'd question the wisdom of disturbing the head unless there was a specific problem you were trying to solve. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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2nd Nov 2018 10:47am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17359 
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Usually the only things you can't do with the engine in situ are operations which require the removal of the crankshaft*, flywheel, or clutch. So you can't change the main bearings, rear main oil seal, or rebore the engine.
You can however do just about everything else, and on most engines this includes piston and con rod replacements, big end bearing shell renewal, and cylinder honing. In the case of the TDCi I don't know if the so-called "ladder frame" that fits on the bottom of the block can be removed with the engine in situ. If not, which I suspect to the the case, you won't be able to get at the big end bearings and con rods, remove a piston, hone the bores, nor get at the PCJs. You can certainly do anything involving the cylinder head, manifolds, and other ancillaries. At 60k your engine is just about run in! * With some engines you can even change the crankshaft, although you have to jack the block up a little first. See https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic64418.html Last edited by blackwolf on 2nd Nov 2018 3:30pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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2nd Nov 2018 12:09pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298  
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my engine has done a little over 100k and I'd say it's running as well as it ever has. bearing in mind what these engines are capable of covering I'd like to think if yours isn't it's likely to be the result of a minor ancillary part. as noted above I'd be inclined to leave the engine in one piece unless something has been diagnosed to the contrary. that said everyone to their own of course. I could perhaps understand the desire to strip down and rebuild if you were doing it yourself but unless you've got someone who's top of their game and you trust them implicitly I would steer away from doing more than you have to - could end up worse. |
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2nd Nov 2018 12:52pm |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5804
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Thank you all, as always. I’m not super knowledgable, so if doing nothing but service parts is recommended, then that’s what it’ll be. So I’ll do the service items at the same time I do the hoses, remap and cooler.
Whilst I know it’s an agricultural/workhorse engine, I get the same it’s not as smooth or as quiet as it should be. But then I’ve not driven any other 2.4s. Strangely it’s fairky quiet and smooth when idling and no gears engaged, but the moment I pop it in gear and have to work it hard when going up hill, just sounds a bit rattly. Any thoughts? Monsieur Le Grenadier I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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2nd Nov 2018 4:21pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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from my experience I'd say transmission. first port of call - clutch. is it the original?
2nd port of call transfer box. after almost 100k miles it came to light my transfer box wasn't set up very well! |
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2nd Nov 2018 4:26pm |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1763 
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It's a transit diesel? Sorry!  |
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2nd Nov 2018 4:52pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1624  
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Sounds like a transmission problem or possibly a broken heat Sheilder bracket. 60k is low mileage for one of those.
No you can’t do any bottom end work on a Tdci without taking the engine out though- remove the sump yes- remove the ladder frame I don’t think so. |
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2nd Nov 2018 7:54pm |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5804
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^^^ Interestingly, it does seem to have got considerably louder since the half-shaft and clutch were replaced a couple of months ago. Also gear lever is a lot stiffer and doesn’t seem as aligned as before. I’m sure my transmission was less rattly before the swap and the gear lever was a joy pre clutch change. Is this an alignment problem? Fluids? Any thoughts? Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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2nd Nov 2018 9:37pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2414  
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If it is a clutchfix, then its a bit more noise (stiffer springs). It should go away with time. As for the gear lever, better to look at the base/selector. Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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3rd Nov 2018 9:23am |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5804
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OE clutch and half shaft as it was done by a LR dealer after breaking down in Spain. Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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3rd Nov 2018 10:13am |
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| Tommo Member Since: 19 Dec 2013 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 830 
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Hi Grenadier
I replaced the following at 110k as I wanted to future proof the defender; intercooler radiator all hoses exhaust wheel bearings brake pads, discs, callipers brake pipes BTW-all were genuine land rover parts. Then due to coolant leak, oil leak I had head cleaned and checked, all new injectors, seals and head gasket. Now I know that with these replacements I have nearly future proofed the defender 
My take was that these are far better to spend money on then unnecessary modifications! Tommo |
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3rd Nov 2018 10:19am |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816  
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Maybe your problem may boil down to the workmanship of the Spanish dealer maybe? I had my half shafts and clutch replaced (on different occasions) with OE by my local Geneva dealer and in both cases no problem. Maybe worth to ask opinion of your local main dealer near Cham provided you think they are good? Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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3rd Nov 2018 10:34am |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5804
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Dealer in Annecy has a good reputation. Might try Accroland first (best local indie) and see what he says.
Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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3rd Nov 2018 10:40am |
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