 | Home > Technical > Rogue dash cable |
 
|
|
|
| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2238   
|
Cable you refer to is the antenna for the alarm unit.
Classic symptom of headlight switch failure! Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
||
16th Oct 2018 5:36pm |
|
| tyrannosauROSS Member Since: 24 Jun 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 136 
|
So am I right in thinking this cable should stay as is then?
I’m just about to take apart the shrouds and test the switches. |
||
|
16th Oct 2018 5:59pm |
|
| BenB8man Member Since: 22 Mar 2017 Location: Norfolk Posts: 429 
|
I feel like I've heard so much about that little wire recently! Maybe it's just me.
Last chap is right though, that can remain as it is, or if you fancy, whilst you're in there, extend it up the A pillar to give yourself more keyfob range. Have a look here : http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic26097....ndreiziger |
||
|
16th Oct 2018 6:30pm |
|
| tyrannosauROSS Member Since: 24 Jun 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 136
|
So it’s not the stalk switch. I get voltage there and it operates normally.
It’s Not the light because I have tested this direct to the battery. At the light terminals I get 6v. Obviously there’s a problem. At the interior cab fuse box. The terminals are all corroded. So maybe this is my problem? I did have trailer electrics fitted. I today cut these off as they were heavily corroded and packed with mud. I’ve insulated each individual cable so they can cause any shorts. I’m stuck. And at the moment I can’t drive the car at dark. And as winter is approaching this is going to be an issue. Anyone else have any ideas? I assume the circuit is battery, switch, fuse, “relay” that does nothing behind the clocks, lights.  Click image to enlarge |
||
|
16th Oct 2018 10:09pm |
|
| 300TDi CSW Phil Member Since: 03 Apr 2016 Location: Bracknell Posts: 750 
|
Did/does your defender have the dreaded dim dip relay fitted?
This causes havoc with LED headlights and will need to be bypassed for them to function as intended. 1995 300 Tdi Epsom Green - It's a keeper. Wide Track Sankey- In bits- Gone to a new home M0XQS |
||
|
16th Oct 2018 10:14pm |
|
| tyrannosauROSS Member Since: 24 Jun 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 136
|
It has the relay that has only has two legs behind the clocks. Part number 10003 or something. It is not the dim dip beam one.
It’s all very annoying. The lights were working fully when I first installed them. Then they stopped. Then they worked. Now they don’t. But it is not the switch and not the relay behind the clocks. And not the lamp itself. I believe the earth to be good as we have tested this. So for some reason I get a huge voltage drop between the dash and the lamps. |
||
|
16th Oct 2018 11:14pm |
|
| tyrannosauROSS Member Since: 24 Jun 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 136
|
Maybe there is someone in Kent who is a great auto electrician?
|
||
|
16th Oct 2018 11:16pm |
|
| tyrannosauROSS Member Since: 24 Jun 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 136
|
There was someone on here a little while ago that replaced his bulkhead fuse holders. I think his were corroded/melted and he managed to source a replacement.
Can anyone remember this post? or point me to the part number. I want to install new, un-corroded ones. Thanks Ross |
||
|
17th Oct 2018 1:07am |
|
| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5788 
|
When you had your old lights in did they use the dim dip system?
This is when the headlights go to half brightness (6v) when you have engine running and switch set to side lights. It makes the main bulbs glow dimly (and kill the bulbs). Normally this system is fitted to commercial variants not county’s with headlight levelling. It’s controlled by a pink relay behind dash binnacle which can just be bypassed. When the main switch fails it’s due to the high current making the contacts in the switch get too hot and melting themselves into the plastic, so not making proper contact anymore. 90% of lighting problems are main light switch or dim dip so that would be my first points to look at. Andy. |
||
|
17th Oct 2018 3:59am |
|
| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 636  
|
I had not working dipped lights on our 130 TD5, and in was in connection headers hidden behind the centre of dash. They are tiny and were partly corroded and partly already burnt. Solution was simple - cut the out and solder the wires previously connected through the header directly. No more problems. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo
 |
||
|
17th Oct 2018 6:30am |
|
| PaulMc Member Since: 17 Jan 2009 Location: Kent Posts: 503 
|
A complete TD5/TDCi fuse block and terminals kit can be bought from Autosparks - 10 Way Blade Fuse Box Click image to enlarge You don't need the lid or the aluminium mounting plate, but in the rest of the kit are the same Lear components used on the Defender. . Paul. 1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop 1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS' |
||
|
17th Oct 2018 11:20am |
|
| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5788
|
You don’t know if you can just the metal terminals do you Paul? I just need one.
Andy. |
||
|
17th Oct 2018 12:58pm |
|
| PaulMc Member Since: 17 Jan 2009 Location: Kent Posts: 503
|
Autosparks don't list them separately - however, they may do, if you call them.
If not, I have compatible terminals, details here - http://www.defender2.net/forum/post145671.html#145671 . Paul. 1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop 1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS' |
||
|
17th Oct 2018 1:09pm |
|
| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5788
|
 |
||
|
17th Oct 2018 1:13pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
