 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Body alignment questions. 110SW |
 
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1852  
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Cheers Nick,
The door frames are gone - no question. 2nd row ones in particular - there's virtually nothing left at the bottom on both sides. They are also going at 'waist' level - where the door 'body' meets the glass frame. That's what I meant when I said they were 'sacrificial'. I have new galved ones for the second row, though they do need painted. The front ones are going, but not so bad yet. I also have a whole set of new optimill hinges I got at the Scottish show in May. I kind of thought I'd try and get things lined up better first, before putting on the new doors and hinges - but if that means I'm trying to fit the 'unfittable' then it will be a case of sorting things out to make it more civilised during the winter - basically plugging the worst of the gaps - until I can afford the front doors and the paint job. I guess I could put the new hinges on the old doors, and at least eliminate that variable. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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8th Oct 2018 8:47pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1679  
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Can you not get the two second row doors painted in the meantime and fit them. Probably about £80ish pounds a door? A buff and polish on the rest of the paint work and I’d say it’d be close.
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8th Oct 2018 11:05pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1852
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Thanks Nick, yeah, I was toying with that.
The quote I had was £100-120 per door. In fact roughly £100-120 per panel - bonnet, wings etc, which took the cost up to near £1000 overall. (2 front wings; 4 doors and bonnet. The rear door came painted.) He wasn't keen to do it in bits - but 'so what'. I don't think it will be a difficult colour to mix or match for future panels. The wings do polish up OK - I don't do it very often, but it just doesn't last - no matter what fancy wax goes on. Today I'm going to focus on the side panels - see if I can ease the roof up enough to allow the side panels to be nudged outwards. Easy enough to fit new hinges on the 2nd row doors and see where I am at that stage. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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9th Oct 2018 7:51am |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1679
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You could try colour sanding the other panels to remove the top layer of oxidation if you’ve nothing to lose? My favourite way to do it now is with a DA sander and soft interface pad and depending on it anything from 800-2000 grit and finish with 3M trizact discs if you keep it wet the discs last much longer, makes a hell of a mess and you’ll look like you’ve done a day in the slaughter house with red paint
 . If it’s a single stage 2k paint you could try some professional cutting compound like 3M perfect-it, it’s beautiful stuff, a bottle would last you a long long time.
I know my local factors do it and will sell the trizact separate https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=ht...2503135606 I’d Naviwax after that to keep the shine or snapseal if you’re feeling lazy. Try and find a trade painter and take him a panel at a time? I’ve lost touch with the price of having paint done as I just do my own now, couldn’t take the pain of chasing bodymen anymore
Maybe next time I do one with badly faded paint I’ll video it or take some snaps. |
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9th Oct 2018 9:09am |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1852
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Cheers Nick, good to get some trade recommendations on stuff to use.
The shame for me is that I have a mate who runs a garage - though he prefers to work on more recent cars - runs a mile when he sees the Defender! They used to do a lot of bodywork for insurance companies, so pretty good. They did the bulkhead after that was galved and it's lasted very well. Unfortunately they lost the insurance work and have got rid of all their painting kit - don't have anything at all left anymore. He did point me in the direction of the guy I'm going to use eventually. But I might try a sand and wax, if only to get through the winter. I did have a go at the alignment today - lifting the roof and pushing the side panels out - but I'll update that with pics on the 'tinkering' thread below. Thanks to all who commented. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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9th Oct 2018 6:32pm |
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