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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410
United Kingdom 
Clutch master cylinder not enough thread to adjust pedal
I have no doubt that someone has had the same problem, in fact I am sure I have seen it somewhere on these forums...

Why do manufacturers differ in the amount of thread they cut in to the rod of the clutch master cylinder??

This week my clutch pedal pretty much ceased to function properly making getting in to gears interesting...! So I bought a new master and slave cylinder from Bearmach. Figured both from the same manufacturer would be a good thing. Actually a little peaved as I only replaced these a year or so ago. That time TRW and AP which are meant to be good brands!

Looks like the TRW master cylinder has been leaking for quite some time, removed all the paint in its path and caused the footwell to rust badly... Big Cry

So today I have replaced both cylinders but have not been able to adjust the pedal because there is only just enough thread on the rod to get the nuts on and the pedal is very high... has anyone else found this problem? Is it something I should contact Bearmach about? Or is this one of those they’re all like that sir moments...!

Is very odd.

On the up side the clutch now works as it should even if the pedal is very high.


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Post #730505 22nd Sep 2018 2:21pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554
had same problem in past swiped thread rod over
Post #730509 22nd Sep 2018 2:51pm
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VVS210



Member Since: 12 Nov 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 953
United Kingdom 
Got to replace master cylinder on mine, went to local supplier who now only sells the genuine part due to short life, manufacturing differences, etc.
Post #730510 22nd Sep 2018 3:10pm
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1624
Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
Yep TRW or nothing here too.
Post #730512 22nd Sep 2018 3:32pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554
TRW and blue box parts leaked i stick with genuine
Post #730515 22nd Sep 2018 3:43pm
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Nutter



Member Since: 15 Sep 2014
Location: Birchington
Posts: 25
England 
Hi have you tried only putting one nut on the clutch master cylinder side, if you got two will make pedal higher.
Post #730520 22nd Sep 2018 4:37pm
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6092
United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
^^^ Agreed... .all mine have had one nut each side of the top of the pedal. tighten them both up so the "other" one can't rattle down the thread.
Post #730538 22nd Sep 2018 6:34pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8021
 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
One nut and swap rods if still required Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #730556 22nd Sep 2018 8:00pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410
United Kingdom 
dorsetsmith wrote:
TRW and blue box parts leaked i stick with genuine


Based on the TRW part I just took off after 18months or so I would have to agree...!

So annoyed with the damage the leak has done.
Post #730595 23rd Sep 2018 7:09am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410
United Kingdom 
diesel_jim wrote:
^^^ Agreed... .all mine have had one nut each side of the top of the pedal. tighten them both up so the "other" one can't rattle down the thread.


No. Isn’t there meant to be two on the cylinder side to lock them in position so you can set the pedal free play?!

Mind you there is so little thread on this rod I’d oubt having only one but wouold matter...
Post #730597 23rd Sep 2018 7:14am
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Balvaig



Member Since: 19 Feb 2016
Location: Fife
Posts: 730
Scotland 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 Landmark LE Corris Grey
Nip to Halfords and buy a tap and die set and run up new threads on the rod.
Not ideal, but should give you some more adjustment and get you going quicker than sending bits back.
Post #730602 23rd Sep 2018 7:27am
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Nutter



Member Since: 15 Sep 2014
Location: Birchington
Posts: 25
England 
Hi you need to adjust your pedal height first on the front of pedal box to 140 mm from floor to bottom of pedal (no mats)
Then adjust push rod so there is 1.5 mm free play between push rod and cylinder piston. one nut on each side of pedal.

James
Post #730613 23rd Sep 2018 9:02am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410
United Kingdom 
Ok here is a question: Can you slide the pedal grunion off the cylinder rod to remove one of the nuts in-situ?

I suspect the answer is no, but kinda hoping...
Post #730635 23rd Sep 2018 11:40am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410
United Kingdom 
Nutter wrote:
Hi you need to adjust your pedal height first on the front of pedal box to 140 mm from floor to bottom of pedal (no mats)
Then adjust push rod so there is 1.5 mm free play between push rod and cylinder piston. one nut on each side of pedal.

James


Hi James. Thanks. The problem is there is not enough thread on the rod to get the pedal anywhere near the requisite 140mm.

Censored -it i hate living away from my tools. Could really do with my tap and die set...
Post #730636 23rd Sep 2018 11:43am
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1624
Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
dorsetsmith wrote:
TRW and blue box parts leaked i stick with genuine


Did you buy a genuine TRW at £££? There was someone on an auction site selling TRW cheap and not TRW.

You’d be surprised Eurocrap parts got duped a few years ago and bought a lot of fake LUK clutches for example Laughing
Post #730787 24th Sep 2018 12:06am
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