 | Home > Technical > 300tdi - Oil Leaks for a change - Pic and leak Heavy |
 
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| jfh Member Since: 08 Jan 2014 Location: West Coast Posts: 363   
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Mine looks about the same. I'll not disscribe it as heavy. I did some research and came to the conclusion that it's the synthetic oil. If you are using synthetic oil then it's just seepage.
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6th Sep 2018 4:28pm |
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| Alex1976 Member Since: 23 Jan 2013 Location: Buckingham Posts: 596 
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I had a similar situation on my 300tdi with 200k miles plus on it. Gave it a thorough degrease/steam clean then it was fairly easy to locate leaks.
You are on the right track with your thoughts and they are from the same places I found my leaks. My vacuum pump was leaking and all that needed was a nip up of the mounting bolts. I am happy to say after going through the same process as you my Defender does not leak oil. |
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6th Sep 2018 4:39pm |
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| tolley Member Since: 07 Nov 2011 Location: gloucester Posts: 1115  
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I did about the same with mine ,once you fit everything and toque them down run it then check and tighten again , seemed to work on mine .
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6th Sep 2018 4:43pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720 
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I think I'd replace the sump pan too, looks like it has a big dent in it.
It all needs washing off really, so you can pin point the leaks. |
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6th Sep 2018 4:50pm |
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| No 6 Member Since: 03 Jul 2018 Location: West Sussex Posts: 65 
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Thanks guys,
I didn't notice the sump dent, i'll look into that too. I've also added oil pressure switch to the list too. Bit off topic but what does everyone use to clean the years of grime off from the underside of the block and places you can't reach from the top side? So many places can't be reached easily let alone cleaned. |
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6th Sep 2018 5:19pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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Comma Hyperclean and either an old paint brush or a stiff parts cleaning brush. You can buy radiator paint brushes which are angled with longer handles.
Then wash it off with a hose, it's the best stuff I've found. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Comma-HYP5L-Hyper...B003BPR9KA |
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6th Sep 2018 6:26pm |
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| No 6 Member Since: 03 Jul 2018 Location: West Sussex Posts: 65
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I'll report back with findings as I go. Got six pairs of marigolds, 5 litres of degreasant, 4 brushes, a large box of parts and a long weekend!  |
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6th Sep 2018 8:22pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8136  
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steam cleaner? quicker and as good a job.
so what oil should they run then? Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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6th Sep 2018 9:00pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1645  
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Eh maybe it’s the picture, but is your injector missing the spill pipe???
When you take the sump off with a dent like that check the pickup isn’t bent. Could even be the reason is breathing heavy- restricted pick up pipe? I find the 300s all leak a bit from the heads as they get up in miles. The bolt in the side of the block, under the core plug is the coolant drain- proceed with caution as they can sometimes strip. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN IT! Seen people do this and it’s not a fun repair! Check you’ve not another seal stuck on the oil filter housing (giving you two), looks like it’s leaking or nip it up. Mahle are the best filters in my eyes. |
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6th Sep 2018 10:07pm |
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| No 6 Member Since: 03 Jul 2018 Location: West Sussex Posts: 65
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Hi
Thanks for the info, am I right in saying the injector nearest the bulkhead is blanked on the left of it but should have a spill pipe on the right when looking at the picture? I'll pop to Halfrauds later and pic some hose up. 3.2mm? May as well add them to the list and would explain the staining around that injector. I'm leaving the coolant side of things alone for the time being, I want to replace the inter cooler (possibly upgrade it) and then do all hoses and pipes in silicone and give everything a good flush. I'm a bit worried about the rear crank shaft oil seal, is this checked by looking up through the front inspection hole? I've read it should be dry in there as only fly wheel and clutch so any oil dripping from there means that needs replacing? I'm almost hoping there are two seals on the oil filter, I would prefer a simple fix!! |
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7th Sep 2018 7:23am |
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| thompjas Member Since: 07 Mar 2014 Location: Northants Posts: 36
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Following with interest as my 300Tdi 110 CSW has the same issues and I plan a similar approach.
An area where mine showed some staining/leakage was where the cyclone breather fitted back into the head. This has an o-ring seal that on mine was tired. I found that a standard plumbing 15mm o ring seal from a push fitting was the perfect size. It was noticeably tighter to put back in and the oil staining has stopped. so that's one less oil leak on mine. Form another forum, the oil leak around the filer area could be an o-ring seal on the pressure switch and/or cooling pipes - these are on my list Brake cleaner is a good product to clean with...... but can be expensive if used too liberally ! |
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7th Sep 2018 8:52am |
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| No 6 Member Since: 03 Jul 2018 Location: West Sussex Posts: 65
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Right bumper update, got most things done and a few issues I could do with advice on.
First up, manifold gasket, I took the inlet off yesterday to clean up and got on with the main manifold this morning. So Manifold off, Originally thought it might be leaking behind number 1 far front corner of the engine behind the dipstick, but found this behind door number 2 
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Cracked top and bottom, out of the 7 studs 6 came free from the block so these were replaced with new and new nuts. Click image to enlarge I would strongly recommend getting one of these Rolson telescopic LED inspection Mirrors, came in handy to locate the bottom manifold nuts, £7.99 from Halfords or if your like me, £3.99 from ebay.
Click image to enlarge So surfaces cleaned and scraped back with plastic stanley blades and plenty of cleaner and new gasket went on. I actually think it was better that the studs came out as you would have very little room to get the gasket in and out, it's mm clearance to the end of the studs. To refit, I locked one nut to another and wound through until they felt snug.
A quick look at the blades on the turbo and a check of play showed slight damage to the fins and around 1mm - 2mm of side to side play.
A look down to the intercooler, the manifold inlet pipe had a fair coating of oil. Click image to enlarge Replaced the inlet pipe and turbo pipe with silicone while I was there. Click image to enlarge Then on to the rocker cover, valve gaps and diesel spill off pipes, clearances were ok but spill offs were Changed the cyclone breather and replaced the rocker cover breather pipe with silicone too.
The seal on the old cyclone was very hard, I initially thought it was plastic is was so stiff. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge All complete cleaned down and a little polish of the rocker and inlet.
So feeling quite pleased with myself I went ahead and changed the fuel, air and oil filter, did an oil change and done or so I thought. First problem. The original oil filter was covered in oil as below, when I went to remove it it was less than finger tight, it moved as soon as I touched it. Easy fix I thought and must be wear the oil is coming from that keeps dripping off my front diff. Click image to enlarge Front diff drippy area.
Well all wiped down and took it for a drive, I noticed a lot more black smoke than before (used to be just on start up) but now on acceleration too. Get back and the oil leak to the front is back and dripping off the diff and worse than before. 
I'm not sure if it's oil from the filter change sitting on the diff housing and running down or there's another issue altogether. I got underneath with a torch and my little mirror tool and can't see anything obvious. Off to the jest wash tomorrow to blast all the crap off then see if it still happening. Any ideas on this and how shot is my turbo? Why is it smoking more? |
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8th Sep 2018 9:44am |
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| dailysleaze Member Since: 23 May 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 237
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Here's some ideas for the leak near the oil filter
https://www.landroverexpedition.com/techni...sing-leak/ |
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10th Sep 2018 8:04am |
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| No 6 Member Since: 03 Jul 2018 Location: West Sussex Posts: 65
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Thanks for that, I'll do the Oil pressure switch as it's looking a little damp.
Good news is I can't see anymore oil leaks from the filter area and front diff is now dry 
It's still leaking from off the lower bolt (nearest left) of the two just behind the sump in the below pic, seems to only leak after driving so pressure, heat or vibration seem to trigger it. I took a look in the small inspection hole where you can see the flywheel and all looks dry and no oil is coming out of there. Might have to drain the new oil and take a look at the sump seal. |
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10th Sep 2018 9:58pm |
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