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Yatesy



Member Since: 19 Jul 2018
Location: North West
Posts: 72

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Zambezi Silver
Removing a winch
Hi guys, a little help please, I’m looking to remove a factory installed warn 9.5ti and electrics aren’t a strong point. Two cables (black and red) run from the winch, the black terminates onto the chassis beneath the battery compartment and the red pictured below.


Click image to enlarge


There's also a power switch on the central console.

Soooo........what do I do?

Thanks in advance.
Post #720434 30th Jul 2018 10:56am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
To remove completely, I would work through in a logical order. Do a drawing of where the wires go to and use as a tick list if required or if you intend on re-using at a later date

Undo the battery cables so you cant short out starting with the negative and then positive.

Remove the power feed to the solenoid (the silver block with all the wires on that run to the winch)
Remove the earth wire
Remove the feed to the winch
remove the earth to the winch
Undo the wires for the console
Feed the wires back through to the console and carefully remove
Remove the winch and all wires

Don't forget to re-attach the positive and negative leads (+ first the - )
You might cause the radio to forget any codes/trackers etc may fire off an alert if battery disconnected. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #720438 30th Jul 2018 11:27am
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shropshiredefender



Member Since: 05 Jun 2017
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 834

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
As above - but check the battery removal section of your manual (page 98 / 99) if an alarm is fitted.
Personally I'd just remove the live feed from battery to solenoid.
Post #720439 30th Jul 2018 11:43am
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Yatesy



Member Since: 19 Jul 2018
Location: North West
Posts: 72

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Zambezi Silver
Thanks excossack, very much appreciated.

Shropshiredefender, thanks also, will do. I’m toying with selling the winch in which case I’ll need to remove the job lot but just removing the live feed is looking very tempting at the moment.
Post #720452 30th Jul 2018 1:47pm
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v8bob



Member Since: 14 Mar 2018
Location: Midlands
Posts: 317

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
Hi,
I think the easy bit is what you can see by the battery.
What sort of switch do you have to allow the winch to get power - on the dash somewhere I guess?
What is you plan for that switch or hole that you end up with?
Where does that switch get its power from?
You should think about starting with sorting the switch out. Otherwise you will end up with a switch on the dash that might make a loose wire live?
Post #720468 30th Jul 2018 3:17pm
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Yatesy



Member Since: 19 Jul 2018
Location: North West
Posts: 72

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Zambezi Silver
I was hoping that killing power to the solenoid would also kill the switch? If I just do as Shropshiredefeneder suggested and remove the live feed to the solenoid leaving everything else in place, would that be a problem?
Post #720469 30th Jul 2018 3:29pm
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v8bob



Member Since: 14 Mar 2018
Location: Midlands
Posts: 317

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
The solenoid could be wired to either have a permanent live and switched earth, or a permanent earth and switched live.
These are the 2 small wires (not red) on the side.
The switch on the dash will be supplying the power, or earth to the solenoid.
It is most likely that the switch gets a live from either the fuse box or some other place, and feeds this to the solenoid when you activate the switch. The solenoid in this circumstance would have a permanent earth.
If you remove the big red wires from the solenoid, but leave the solenoid in place then it would be possible to leave the switch.

It is worth checking if the winch can work with the ignition off / keys removed.
If the switch has a light in it/next to it that will tell you.

Selling the winch with the solenoid and switch would increase its value a bit as those solenoids are a few quid to buy.
Post #720480 30th Jul 2018 4:07pm
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shropshiredefender



Member Since: 05 Jun 2017
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 834

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
The wires from the switch are the 2 black ones on the front of the solenoid - very well insulated.

If you leave the switch working all it will do is switch on the solenoid. Not a problem as there will be no main feed to it.

If you can locate the fuse in the live feed to the switch and pull that you will have isolated the switch.

Since the winch was properly installed the fuse may well be in one of the fuse boxes.
Looks like v8bob beat me too it Whistle
Post #720483 30th Jul 2018 4:18pm
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Yatesy



Member Since: 19 Jul 2018
Location: North West
Posts: 72

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Zambezi Silver
Ok, thanks guys, I had a feeling this would get complicated, I think I’ve got it though, worse case scenario I’ll leave the solenoid in. Yes, the switch lights up when on.
Post #720498 30th Jul 2018 4:54pm
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Cupboard



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
The switch on mine was (badly) powered from the cigarette lighter supply.

If you've got the little red switch on the dash then you can wiggle it out and pull the wiress off the back of it. The cable then just runs under the floor mats and in to the battery box.
Post #720611 31st Jul 2018 8:04am
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Yatesy



Member Since: 19 Jul 2018
Location: North West
Posts: 72

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Zambezi Silver
Ok, will do thanks. What did you do regards the hole in the console?
Post #720803 1st Aug 2018 6:52am
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2300

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I note that you are looking to sell the winch. I could be interested and would be more than happy to assist in the removal. I am handy with spanners and electrics. I am in the North West area Thursday - Sunday this week
Post #721709 6th Aug 2018 12:06pm
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Yatesy



Member Since: 19 Jul 2018
Location: North West
Posts: 72

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Zambezi Silver
Hi Hank, I plan to get this done tomorrow as long as the new bumper arrives, thanks for the offer, you’re quite welcome to buy the bumper though and I’ll assist you in fitting it here if you like?
Post #721717 6th Aug 2018 12:46pm
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Yatesy



Member Since: 19 Jul 2018
Location: North West
Posts: 72

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Zambezi Silver
So I made a start on this today, as v8bob said, the switch bit was the difficult part, it was wired into the rear window heater switch and as you guys correctly said, under the flooring and into the battery box with a second earth cable going through the floor. All sorted now though, I just need to remove the winch itself.
I wasn’t happy with the hole in the console after removing the switch so I bit the bullet and replaced the centre console with a shiny one. I knew it would be expensive for that 8” square of plastic from LR but still nearly collapsed in Guy Salmon’s.


Click image to enlarge


Thanks again guys.
Post #722307 8th Aug 2018 5:17pm
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v8bob



Member Since: 14 Mar 2018
Location: Midlands
Posts: 317

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
Aren't the dealers wonderful at fitting extras/options.
You have a selection of unused switches and they have to drill a hole and fit some weird switch because it comes in the kit.
Thumbs Up
Post #722347 8th Aug 2018 7:04pm
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