 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Lost drive - only in diff lock - urgent ish... |
 
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| stuart123 Member Since: 03 Apr 2017 Location: Manchester Posts: 207   
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Pressed submit too early, any thoughts appreciated!
Thank you. |
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22nd Jul 2018 3:44pm |
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| Bergos Member Since: 08 Aug 2015 Location: Somewhere in Portugal Posts: 95  
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I think, you can but to be on the safe side I would remove the prop-shaft on the broken diff side. Bergos
LR Defender 110 HT 2007 (2.4 Puma) https://www.facebook.com/LR.Wanderlust/ |
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22nd Jul 2018 4:10pm |
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| UtilityTruck Member Since: 09 Jan 2014 Location: Oxford Posts: 463
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If diff lock returns drive, you’re right to suspect one of the driveshafts. The worst thing that is likely to happen as a result of wind-up from driving with the diff lock in, is some damage to the driveline components- but it sounds like you need to strip down and replace whatever is damaged any way. I’d take the risk and get my truck home. 2014 Keswick Utility 2.2
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22nd Jul 2018 4:35pm |
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| stuart123 Member Since: 03 Apr 2017 Location: Manchester Posts: 207
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Thanks all. It’s going back home on a Wagon to be on the safe side!!
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22nd Jul 2018 5:23pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720 
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You wont get wind up unless there is drive going to both the front and rear.
Will save you some diesel. 
If could be a failed CV or splines on the end of one of the half shafts. Of the diff has completely failed. |
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22nd Jul 2018 6:29pm |
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| stuart123 Member Since: 03 Apr 2017 Location: Manchester Posts: 207
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Thanks for that.
Presume I’d need to pull the half shafts before doing anything else? Which end do they normally go? Wheel end looked fine...! |
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22nd Jul 2018 8:28pm |
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| Jim1988 Member Since: 26 Oct 2017 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 248
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Much easier job if it is the wheel end 👍🏻 Thanks Jim.
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22nd Jul 2018 8:46pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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You can't see the wheel end on the front, there is a CV joint in the way. 
Realistically yes you're going to have to strip the whole front axle. I suppose first thing to do is remove the front hub/swivel assemblies from the axle tube and see what comes out. If you're lucky the first one you pull out will be the one with mangled splines where it goes into the CV joint. On the other hand you might have to pull the second one out to finds the diff is shot to bits. |
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22nd Jul 2018 10:27pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17520 
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You may be able to make a better diagnosis with the aid of an assistant by looking through the axle oil filler hole, since you can see some of the differential. If you have a broken halfshaft then rotating one wheel (with the difflock engaged to lock the propshaft, and the other wheel stationary) will normally spin the differential gears. If a halfshaft is broken, then rotating the wheel on the broken side will not spin the differential gears.
Generally it is the short halfshaft which breaks since it has less flex and hence less resilience against shock loading. Usually if a halfshaft has broken it is safe to drive the vehicle with the difflock engaged however there is a risk of increased damage due to fragments getting into places they are not wanted. However there is a possibility that the diff itself has failed, and in this case it may either lock solid, or the differential gears may lock solid even though the carrier still rotates, and either of these can have a catastrophic effect on the control of the vehicle. The first may lock the transmission, the second (which happened to me when my front diff failed) will result in an almost complete inability to steer. These are worst-case scenarios but when weighing up the likelihood vs. the consequence they are not insignificant. There are some CV joint failure modes which may also compromise the steering. For these reasons I personally would not recommend driving more than a few miles with the vehicle in this condition. If my life depended on it and there was no recovery service then yes, but if not, take the safe option. |
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23rd Jul 2018 8:47am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8143  
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The only way I would drive it with these symptoms is to pull each shaft with cv and take front prop off for exact reasons above.
Go in drivers sidefirst. I suspect front diff. Is the vehicle worked off road? What size tyres? Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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23rd Jul 2018 3:11pm |
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| stuart123 Member Since: 03 Apr 2017 Location: Manchester Posts: 207
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Thanks all.
Good plan on looking through the filler. I’ll try that when I’m back with the car. It’s tucked up at my parents for the moment and not with me. Not worked off road, it has a very easy life and road use only on the whole. 92k miles on it. Standard size tyres. When jacking up one side at a time, both spin freely with no nasty noises or grinding sounds coming from the diff etc so I’m hoping it’s not that ...! |
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24th Jul 2018 7:38pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443  
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Before you get too carried away with thinking the worst just pop the rubber hub caps off the axle ends and if you've got an assistant get them to watch if the splined centre (half shaft) is spinning. Take the motor out of diff lock, put it into gear where you don't get any "drive" and let the clutch out. You may see one of the half shafts spinning away merrily which points to the hub flanges being worn and giving up the ghost.
A far easier fix than delving into the axles 
If you're on your own you can chock the wheels or rest the bumper up against an immovable object, put it in gear and jump out to check. Only do this as a last resort as things could go wrong if the open centre diff decides it's going to lock up and cause the vehicle to move  |
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25th Jul 2018 12:39am |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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That was in his original post.......
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25th Jul 2018 6:32am |
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