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foxhound

Member Since: 02 Mar 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 363

1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Alpine White

Defender Air Intake, Engine Power and Fuel Efficiency

I have a 1995 Defender 110 300 TDI and often tow an ex-Army Sankey MkIII trailer converted for camping.

Until late last year, I was averaging 26-27.5 MPG (see note 1 below) .

My old steel military raised air intake (RAI, see note 2) (Bearmach or Mantec brand I think) with 2.5 inch internal diameter tube was rusty and needed replacing; and I replaced it with a Mantec polyurethane 3 inch tube RAI (with Donaldson Air Ram head). This immediately increased my MPG to 27-28.5 MPG; I also noticed a small increase in power. This set me thinking, and I explored the airflow inside the engine bay.

On the inside, the Land Rover air duct box and hose appears to reduce the cross-sectional area through which air flows, yet the air cleaner box has a 3 inch inlet (this applies to both the standard Land Rover air cleaner, and the military Wolf / Donaldson air cleaner box which I use —without the second filter safety element on UK roads).

So I explored the question ‘what would happen if there was a 3 inch minimum cross-sectional area for air to flow from RAI head to air cleaner box intake?’

Before I could answer this question, I had to address the cause of an MOT failure (excessive emissions). The expensive solution to this was a new turbo (the wastegate had seized on the old one), new fuel injectors (the old ones were 20-25 % out), fuel injector pump reconditioning and new glow plugs. While I was at it, I also got my local garage to do an engine carbon clean!

Doing all this took my fuel consumption to 28.5 - 30.5 MPG, produced a very noticeable increase in power —especially when towing uphill— and negligible emissions.

I could now answer the airflow question!

I noticed that the air duct box outlet for the 200TDI has a circular cross-section, as opposed to the rectangle of the 300TDI, and while the box is basically the same shape, it is a mirror image because the 200 TDI air duct is on the left hand side, whereas on the 300 TDI it is on the right hand side.

So I started looking for something similar to the 200 box which would fit a 300. My research led me to the Nugget Stuff sealed air intake box which was designed for the Puma TDCI with a 90 mm outlet. I had a chat over the telephone with Wayne Nielsen at Nugget Stuff in Queensland, and he sent me a Puma sealed air intake box to try, with some 90mm hose, a stepdown ring and a length of 76mm/ 3 inch hose (superb quality hose!).

Last week, the system was installed into my Land Rover. I immediately noticed an increase in power and a lower tone in the engine sound; I could accelerate like a boy racer!

The day it was fitted, I called Wayne and said that I expected my fuel consumption to increase because my right foot was enjoying the ability to accelerate so much more quickly! After a day or two, I checked my fuel consumption (my local garage pump really does dispense exactly what it says; I have checked!), and sure enough I was doing 26.5 MPG (short school runs and local errands).

After a week, having now disciplined myself to be more ‘sensible' in how I drive —but I am still driving faster than I did —I am now doing 29.8 MPG. That’s very close to my best ever 30.5 MPG which was achieved with less speed and engine power.

Conclusion —the combination of a 3 inch RAI and minimum 3 inch air flow through to the air cleaner box on my Land Rover has increased power and engine efficiency very noticeably, and given me a sealed snorkel system with Wayne's box.

notes
1 On purchase in 2012 it was 18 MPG; the increase to 26 was achieved by fitting: full width intercooler (also increased power by 25%), full silicone hosing, EGR blanking plate, RAI and frequent tyre pressure checking.
2 In my view, an RAI only keeps the air intake out of the dust; and an RAI only becomes a snorkel when the air intake system is sealed for wading.
3. A late addition, I have a donaldson topspin head on the RAI tube ad well as donaldson air filter box. check the specs for the topspin's effectiveness (and compare to the other donaldson heads)

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge 110 Defender 300tdi & Penman trailer with ally exped top and roof tent

Last edited by foxhound on 25th Feb 2020 8:35am. Edited 1 time in total

30th May 2018 10:32am

trickster5000

Member Since: 12 Dec 2015
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 504

Interesting write-up! Thanks for sharing

Matt.

'89 90 CSW with a 3.5 V8 conversion (WIP) - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic46809.html

30th May 2018 10:39am

foxhound

Member Since: 02 Mar 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 363

i'm very pleased with the outcome. so different to drive now! 110 Defender 300tdi & Penman trailer with ally exped top and roof tent

30th May 2018 11:39am

Sunshine

Member Since: 18 Jul 2017
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 18

Great write up
What air filter box is it you have on yours ? Looks better sealed up than my standard one

30th May 2018 6:42pm

foxhound

Member Since: 02 Mar 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 363

Thanks. I use the Donaldson air cleaner as fitted in the LR Wolf TUL/TUM. email me and I'll send box, band and filter part numbers.

Cheapest boxes are on thexmod.com, cheapest mounting band and filters are (I think) from Alexis filters. I used the original mounting bracket (flattened off) and 2 bands. 110 Defender 300tdi & Penman trailer with ally exped top and roof tent

30th May 2018 7:17pm

wyvern

Member Since: 13 Dec 2009
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 2117

2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Firenze Red

peter bell (BAS)did a lot of research into raised air intakes and conclude that the engines run better with out them and that the original set up was not conducive to good air intake ..
see here http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49178....air+intake Poppy - TDCI (Puma) 110XS 2.2 - Camper conversion - see the build here - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic56530.html
Elgar -TDCI(Puma) 110XS Dormobile - now sold
Devon & Cornwall 4x4 Response - DC126

30th May 2018 7:27pm

Zed

Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: In the woods
Posts: 3331

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black

Quote:
peter bell (BAS)did a lot of research into raised air intakes and conclude that the engines run better with out them and that the original set up was not conducive to good air intake ..
see here http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49178....air+intake

I remember that at the time. Very informative. Would like to see an update with the current 'in vogue' vents from the likes of optimill and zunsport.

30th May 2018 7:33pm

Pilgrimmick

Member Since: 16 Nov 2015
Location: Highlands
Posts: 582

It is fairly simple, a large bore 'ram' air intake is just doing what a turbo or supercharger does, provide more air charge at the inlet manifold to enhance the fuel air mix.
The key is in getting the mix right.
More air allows more fuel to be burnt efficiently, so more power.
Simples. 80" 1948
Lightweight V8
Bowler Tomcat
130 Station wagon
90 300tdi
(Santana PS10 pick up)
Range Rover L322 (Ful fat)

30th May 2018 9:38pm

foxhound

Member Since: 02 Mar 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 363

wyvern wrote:
peter bell (BAS)did a lot of research into raised air intakes and conclude that the engines run better with out them and that the original set up was not conducive to good air intake ..
see here http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49178....air+intake

interesting reading. i've not been close up to a safari snorkel, I wonder how the air flow through them compares to the mantec one I have.

If I read the article correctly it suggests that a. if you need an RAI for dust/water environmental reasons then the bigger the RAI tube diameter the better and b. the internal pipework size makes a difference. Seems to be basically the same conclusion I reached + He says if you don't need an RAI for environmental reasons then you're better off without one. 110 Defender 300tdi & Penman trailer with ally exped top and roof tent

31st May 2018 4:56am

Justtellme

Member Since: 23 Nov 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 310

Not to throw cold water on things , but I don’t believe any ram air effects on a defender will make any appreciable difference.
Compressible effects associated with ram air at sea level do not normally occur until you have surpassed the 200mph threshold and even then probably not even at a measurable level until your defender is crossing through the sound barrier in speed. On a road going Defender, nowhere near the benefits one would see from supercharging/turbocharging.
Most NACA ducts you see on vehicles like the Porsche 924t and the 80s lamborginis were there for styling only.
Patrick

31st May 2018 5:10am

foxhound

Member Since: 02 Mar 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 363

Re: Defender Air Intake, Engine Power and Fuel Efficiency

foxhound wrote:
yet the air cleaner box has a 3 inch inlet (this applies to both the standard Land Rover air cleaner, and the military Wolf / Donaldson air cleaner box which I use —without the second filter safety element on UK roads).

A lot of people have asked me for the Donaldson air cleaner box and filter part numbers so rather than send lots of emails, here goes:

Land Rover XD (Wolf) Donaldson Air Intake Filter Body
OEM Part No FPGO 70135, NSN: 2940997904887
if you buy from theXMOD.com it comes with the filters :
Main Element : P78-3498, NSN: 2940-99-352-4425.
Safety Element : P77-5300, NSN: 2940-13-118-2077.
Mounting Band - 7 Inch - P777731, NSN 5340991521123 -- These bands are very, very much cheaper from Alexis Filters —I used 2 to mount my Donaldson box.

I don't know if a special mounting bracket was made for the larger Donaldson bands, I haven't found one so I adapted the bog standard LR air cleaner box bracket . I counter sunk the centre hole of the 3 in the standard bracket 'forward edge' and shaved some of the top of the bolt so it sat flush with the bracket. I then used 2 of the P777731 mounting brackets (approx £7 each from Alexis filters) - which fitted onto the standard bracket by one end only.

The filters are not washable. They are a service item. The inner filter is only fitted to vehicles in hot sandy places. Those that get repatriated to a temperate theatre, the inner filter is normally removed at the next service. There is no need to run the inner where there is no chance of excessive dirt/fine dust.

Donaldson give different part numbers to the same actual item - so the part numbers above are only for the filters sold to the MOD. My research suggests that these filters/part numbers (Donaldson and others) will also work:

MAIN/PRIMARY:

Alco MD7544, Atlas Copco 1310033926, 1310-0339-26, 1310034889, 1310-0348-89, 2991546, Baldwin RS3542, Case 222425, 222425A1, 47128201, 85826956, 87418366, Caterpillar1232367, 123-2367, 1547108, 154-7108, 2310167, 231-0167, Clark 6666375, Compair Holman 13306974, A13306974, Coopers Fiaam AEM2670, FLI6905, Crosland 9232, DonaldsonFPG070006, FPG070009, FPG070017, FPG070018, FPG070019, FPG070020, FPG070059, FPG070060, G070006, G070017, G070018, G070019, G070020, G070059, G070060, P772579, P774574, P775827, P776156, P776715, P776914, P777494, P777498, P827653, Fiat 1930587, 51768550, Filtration FTA3507, Fleetguard AF25291, AF25526, AF25555, AF25588, AH19091, AH19092, AH19093, AH19094, Fleetrite AFR825291, AFR825526, AFR825555, AFR825588, Ford 86982522, Fram CA5745, Greyfriars 1363A, Hanomag Henschel 4916567M1, HengstE571L, Hyster 1462439, S007624611, Ingersoll Rand 35393685, 85400679, In-Line Filters FFR-CA5745, JCB 32/919001, 32919000, 32919001, John Deere AP3330, AP33330, KV16428, KV26904, PE71011292, RE508449, Kalmar 9234360720, Komatsu 12993512520, 129935-12520, 42U01H0P02, 42U01HOP02, LFA04887, YM12993512520, YM129935-12520, Z760234750, Kralinator LA1770, LA1799, Kramer 0000805187, 1000000365, 805187, Kubota 5980026110, 59800-26110, Lancer Boss 2088554, eBay Item No. 208855420821, 8129832, 8129832?, 8876279, A12326K98, Lister Petter 36608109, 366-08109, 36608133, 366-08133, Lombardini 104.2175.1260, 10421751260, 217.5126, 2175126, Luberfiner LAF7653, LAF8148, Mahle Knecht LX1241, Manitou 227959, 490494, Mann and Hummel C14200/1, C142001, C14202/1, C142021, Massey Ferguson 3540046M1, 3540046-M1, Match 20888554, Meuden560937, 68560938, Nelson Winslow 870286N, New Holland 47135972, 5080756, 5176855, Onan 1403067, 140-3067, Perkins 26510337, 901047, 901-047, Racor EAPE68320, SakuraA7003, A-7003, A8506, A-8506, Sambron 634964, Same 102.095.0, 1020950, Schupp SL5889, SL8003, Sure Filter SFA5588P, Terex 6000043, Thwaites T15832, Toro 1044260, 1083814, 108-3814, Virgis CH0714074, CH07-14074, Volvo 11711497, Wix 46652, 46671, 546652, 546671, Woodgate WGA1079, WGA1865, Yale and Towne 580010991, Zetor 71011292, 71-011-292

SAFETY:

Alco MD7452, Atlas Copco 2991557, Baldwin RS3543, Case 222429A1, 47128200, 47135976, 85826959, 87418367, Caterpillar 1232368, 123-2368, 2310168, 231-0168, Clark 6666376, Compair Holman 13308874, A13308874, Coopers Fiaam AES2671, FLI6928, Crosland 9233, Donaldson FPG070009, FPG070017, FPG070018, FPG070019, FPG070020, FPG070059, FPG070060, G070006, G070017, G070018, G070019, G070020, G070059, G070060, G070125, P775300, P829332, Fiat 1930588, Filtration FTA4507, Fleetguard AF25484, AF25556, AH19092, AH19094, Fleetrite AFR825484, AFR825556, Ford 86982523, Fram CA5745SY, Greyfriars 1364A, Hanomag Henschel 4916566M1, Hengst E571LS, Hyster S007624612, Ingersoll Rand 85400703, In-Line Filters FFR-CA5745SY, JCB 32/919000, 32/919002, 32919000, 32919002, John Deere AP33331, PE71011293, Komatsu 42U01H0P01, 42U01HOP01, Z760234790, Kralinator LA1800, Kramer 0000805188, 805188, Kubota 3A11119130, 3A111-19130, Lancer Boss 8925279, 8925297, Lister Petter 36608110, 366-08110, LuberfinerLAF9332, Manitou 227960, Mann and Hummel CF850, Massey Ferguson 3540047M1, 3540047-M1, Meuden 560398, 560938, 68560937, Nelson Winslow 870287N, New Holland47135975, 5080755, 5176855, Perkins 26510333, 26510338, Racor EASE68360, Sakura A7004, A-7004, A8565, A-8565, Sambron 634972, Schupp SL8004, Steyr 47135977, Sure FilterSFA5484S, Thwaites T15833, Toro 1044261, 1083816, 108-3816, Union AF2293, Vapormatic VPD7106, Virgis ST0714270, ST07-14270, Volvo 11711496, Wix 46672, 546672, WoodgateWGA1079S, Zetor 71011293, 71-011-293

Click image to enlarge

110 Defender 300tdi & Penman trailer with ally exped top and roof tent

31st May 2018 5:13am

foxhound

Member Since: 02 Mar 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 363

Justtellme wrote:
Not to throw cold water on things , but I don’t believe any ram air effects on a defender will make any appreciable difference.
Compressible effects associated with ram air at sea level do not normally occur until you have surpassed the 200mph threshold and even then probably not even at a measurable level until your defender is crossing through the sound barrier in speed. On a road going Defender, nowhere near the benefits one would see from supercharging/turbocharging.
Most NACA ducts you see on vehicles like the Porsche 924t and the 80s lamborginis were there for styling only.
Patrick

My next experiment is to compare driving with my donaldson air ram head and the Donaldson topspin head I have - which from Donaldson's test tables seems to be the most effective of their heads in optimising dust reduction and air flow. If there's no difference I'll switch to the top spin as it will sit lower and be less vulnerable to branches. 110 Defender 300tdi & Penman trailer with ally exped top and roof tent

31st May 2018 5:19am

yostumpy

Member Since: 01 Aug 2010
Location: n/kent
Posts: 327

Just a few thoughts, the mpg figure of 18 mpg was obviously way out, even 26 mpg is low. I think the additional power has allowed you to transform the way you drive. Think aircraft! A passenger plane now adopts THE most efficient form of flight, i.e. full thrust on take off to get to cruising altitude asap, then ease right off, and coast along, with a long efficient descent, at min thrust. This is opposite to a slow take off, taking a gentle looong climb, using much more fuel. So you are now doing the same. Accelerating briskly up to speed, then easing back, the xtra power allows you to do this. My 110 300tdi has 30 mpg avg, over about 4 years with a 36.5mpg best. I had the pump tweaked, nothing else, fitted with k&n filter (for cost grounds 10 years ago) and a std RAI , but without the restrictive mushroom top, using a rear facing plastic rain water pipe bend instead, and I don't hang about either, achieved by driving as above.

31st May 2018 10:17am

foxhound

Member Since: 02 Mar 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 363

yostumpy --very interesting comments, thanks. around where i live i was told by 3 LR workshops that 26-28 was good. in what way was your pump tweaked and by whom? That's something i'd really like to learn more about and hopefully benefit from. 110 Defender 300tdi & Penman trailer with ally exped top and roof tent

31st May 2018 10:24am

yostumpy

Member Since: 01 Aug 2010
Location: n/kent
Posts: 327

it as done abput 10 years ago by Van AAKEN, but I don't think they do it any more, (or even if they are still around). I did find the mushroom top VERY restrictive. Its not a snorkel, its a rai, as you said. and the reason was simple. I fitted those wind deflectors to the doors, and with the xtra 'draw' thro the k+n, it was very noisy thro the side inlet, so i got a cheap s/h RAI, that took it above the wind deflector. works a treat. Is it hilly where you live, this is more efficient than flat land you know!

31st May 2018 11:00am

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