 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Broken halfshaft |
 
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Coasted to side of road to investigate - engaging gear results in the rear propshaft rotating, bad noises, and no drive. Lock up the centre diff and vehicle drives with only a few more bad noises than usual. Conclusion - rear halfshaft gone.
| big steve Member Since: 24 Dec 2009 Location: hertfordshire Posts: 2456   
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there easy to change only 5 bolts and out it should slide ?
you could be lucky and its broke the wheel end overwise a good strong magnet can get them out of the diff i think x-eng do one and half shafts shouldnt be to bad iv got ashcrofts though so i dont know regards steve 2015 2.2 tdci hardtop xs 3.2 conversion DONE 238bhp and 707nm torque and thats just the start ;-P hybrid turbo in build -done ready to fit ashcroft atb in transfer box 6 speed auto in build |
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10th May 2011 8:52pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17339 
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Thanks Steve! Will get up early and pull the shafts to find out what's broken.
I see online that new genuine shafts are £250+ but B***part and others are £30 or so. Hmm, I wonder which are better quality! It should be poss to get a pair of Ashcroft shafts for the price of one genuine one, provided they're in stock and can be shipped quickly enough - I need to be mobile again by the weekend. After tax, mot and insurance this month I could have done without this! Never mind, all part of the Defender experience. |
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10th May 2011 10:32pm |
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| BigMike Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2253
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To be honest bw if you get ashcroft shafts, whilst theyre great you're just moving the possible problem down the line ie cv or gearbox. Id be interested in why one broke in those circumstances unless you've been excessively stressing and or shock loading them offroad etc. Depending on the age of the vehicle, if its new i would want to look at a few other things as well as the broek shaft. if older then a different story. But still, I wouldnt get uprated ones, just OEM, and NO way I would buy from britpart etc.
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10th May 2011 10:53pm |
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| AndrewS Member Since: 10 Apr 2007 Location: Hereford Posts: 3707 
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Call Land Rover Assist and get recovered to a dealer of your choice and get it fixed under warranty. If you do this Land Rover will supply you with a car whilst yours is being repaired. 130's have feeling's as well you know
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11th May 2011 6:05am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17339
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It's an 07 DC and well out of warranty unfortunately. I am wondering myself why if failed since I have been driving LRs for over 30 years and have never broken one before. I am running 285s but don't see why this should make a significant difference.
Just going to pull the shafts now, will post my findings. |
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11th May 2011 6:19am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17339
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OK, pulled the long shaft first, intact, but the driving member is worryingly loose on the splines at the outer end. Then pulled the short shaft, also intact, however the driving member rotates on the splines at the outer end, the splines have stripped completely.
So, I need a pair of halfshafts and a pair of driving members. Good news - in stock at local dealer, bad news - halfshafts £250 each, driving members £100 each  .
Can anyone tell me if the driving member should be loctited on the halfshaft or fitted dry/lubed? I seem vaguely to recall there being a service bulletin on the subject. Thanks. |
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11th May 2011 8:33am |
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| AndrewS Member Since: 10 Apr 2007 Location: Hereford Posts: 3707
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Locktite the splines on the drive flange and the bolts. 130's have feeling's as well you know
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11th May 2011 7:15pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1777  
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Are the shaft splines worn away or just the driving members? The halfshafts seem to be very hard & the driving members just cast iron, I replaced the rear ones on Ickle to reduce some of the driveline clunk, the shafts were unworn, the driving members pretty sh@gged!
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11th May 2011 9:17pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17339
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Both the shafts and the driving members are shot - will try to post photo in due course. A pair of nice new genuine ones are now standing in the kitchen to let the loctite 648 cure overnight, will fit tomorrow.
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11th May 2011 10:03pm |
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| LESVOSD110 Member Since: 19 Aug 2009 Location: South Africa Posts: 241  
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It's it ok to loctite.I thought the shafts have to be floating in the axle.I think there was a Td5 Defender with the drive flange fixed to the shaft and wonder why it was done away with. Puma 110 SW 90 V8 SOFT TOP |
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12th May 2011 9:02am |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2411  
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I see all the time people recommending Ashcroft half shaft. KAM ones are never mentioned. Anybody have used KAM? Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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12th May 2011 9:27am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17339
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All back together now and much nicer to drive, with far less backlash in the drivetrain.
The question of Loctite or no Loctite is an interesting one. The dealer's line on this is that they don't loctite Defender drive members because "once some dirt gets in there is acts like a grinding paste" which makes no sense since no dirt will get in when it is Loctited, but it will if dry or greased. Landrover recommends Loctite on Discovery and Range Rover drive members to prevent clunks and knocks, but doesn't on Defender despite these being broadly identical. The Puma manual shows the 90 as having a member integral with the halfshaft and the 110 and 130 having seperate drive members and makes no mention of Loctite on the latter. All in all, after weighing up the situation, I can see no possible harm at all at Loctiting the members to the halfshaft and potentially a lot of benefits. The only downside is that it may make it difficult to remove the drive member from the shaft, but there should never really be any need to do this, they should always be replaced as a pair anyway. The Loctite product to use is Loctite 648, available as LR part no STC50554, the same as used on the diff pinion splines. |
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12th May 2011 9:41am |
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| holmessato Member Since: 11 Mar 2010 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 27 
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My 07 110 is waiting for a new rear diff, new 1/2 shafts and new drive flanges to come in (been waiting 3 weeks so far) and get replaced under extended warranty. The slop in the drive train is terrible and its only a matter of time before the flanges or 1/2 shafts go bang. I'm glad I took out the warranty extension when I started feeling things where getting bad late last year
Its only done 27K miles. What the hell went wrong with drive train quality on Puma Defenders? This is the 5th 110 I have had and the worst for drive train problems by a great margin. |
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12th May 2011 7:30pm |
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| AndrewS Member Since: 10 Apr 2007 Location: Hereford Posts: 3707
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They are made from toffee, blame Ford
 130's have feeling's as well you know |
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12th May 2011 7:49pm |
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