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r21



Member Since: 25 Apr 2014
Location: Merseyside
Posts: 77

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black
Wheel and tyre choice
Looking for some advice around wheel and tyres, I've read a lot of the posts currently out there but just want to reinforce my understanding and options

Vehicle is a 2013 USW currently running Dual finish alloys with Goodyear Wrangle MTR 235/85/R16

The vehicle is going to get minimum off road use, the beach, the occasional tame green lane, muddy fields
I want to maintain an off road look where possible but improve turning circle and ride comfort, I don't want to use spacers.
I'm looking to put the Alive comfort springs on which will reduce the height slightly

Wheels I have been looking at
1) 16x7 modulars ET0
2) 16x7 challenger ET-25
3) 16x75 bowler ET10

I think I'm set on tyre brand, BFG All Terrain - but I'm unsure of the pro/cons around the sizes. I could go for the the 235/85/R16 to match the current ones or would a bigger width be better.

The cost difference between the bowlers and modulars is obviously quite large but if I decide to go the Bowler route then the kids will have to eat beans for a week or five.

I'll be putting the dual finish up for sale as well if anyone is interested.
Post #703567 27th Apr 2018 2:23pm
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shropshiredefender



Member Since: 05 Jun 2017
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 834

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
My target when changing wheels was to improve the turning circle to an acceptable level for everyday driving/parking.

Like you I am not keen on spacers. Standard ET is 33, I settled for ET10 wheels giving a 46mm wider track by moving the rim 23mm away from the radius arm, which is the limiting factor to the turning circle, and adjusting the steering stops accordingly.

I felt that a -25 ET would give a 116mm wider track and this was too much.

Anyway after a couple of years use I'm happy that I can get into tight parking spaces (for a 110) and take tight mountain hairpins in one whereas before I'd taking 2 or 3 swipes at it on the standard wheels.

Just had a new set of 235/85/16 BFG AT fitted as the wider 265/75's have no obvious benefit in real world driving, I know because I had them fitted with ET0 modulars on my 300tdi 110.


Click image to enlarge
Post #703604 27th Apr 2018 5:31pm
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Cupboard



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
Wide tyre are good on cars that need lots of high speed lateral stability.
They're completely pointless on a Defender unless you like the look of them.

Another option would be the Cooper AT3, I personally think they look pretty good.
Post #703631 27th Apr 2018 6:50pm
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r21



Member Since: 25 Apr 2014
Location: Merseyside
Posts: 77

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black
cheers, think I’ll rule out the challenger ones then, cheap modulars or expensive bowlers it is then, guess I’ll have to see how much is left in the budget and how much I can sell the dual finish ones for.

I’ll check out the AT3 as well
Post #703647 27th Apr 2018 7:47pm
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L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10742

England 
As a couple of you have mentioned that 265/75/16 BFG's are no good for the real world driving and only for fast cars, i would have to disagree with you there and your saying that the 235/85/16 will do the job as good or better than the 265/75/16 ?

Please enlighten me on these comments Whistle 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.

Keeper.

Clayton.
Post #703675 27th Apr 2018 9:06pm
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shropshiredefender



Member Since: 05 Jun 2017
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 834

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
What I said was "Just had a new set of 235/85/16 BFG AT fitted as the wider 265/75's have no obvious benefit in real world driving" ie there is no difference other than looks - and that's a matter of personal choice.
Post #703768 28th Apr 2018 11:09am
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r21



Member Since: 25 Apr 2014
Location: Merseyside
Posts: 77

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black
I've decided to go with the Bowlers, the tyre choice is between

BFG AT
235/85/16
265/75/16

Performance for both is listed as identical, Fuel (F), Noise (74), Wet (B)
235's are about £20/wheel & tyre less so nothing really in it

Since I want a better turning circle and handling, what would be the better choice - am I correct that the 235 would be better for turning....

bowler wheels are ET10 so -23 in comparison to the dual finish at ET33

235 tyre width divided by 2 is 117.5 so inside tyre face will be 23mm futher from radius arm than current
265 tyre width divided by 2 is 132.5 so inside tyre face will be 7mm futher from radius arm than current

Is that right?
Post #704110 30th Apr 2018 8:10am
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r21



Member Since: 25 Apr 2014
Location: Merseyside
Posts: 77

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black
Just rang Bowler, they recommend the 265s - they said they wouldn't recommend using 235s with their wheels
Post #704119 30th Apr 2018 8:50am
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Cupboard



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
L110CDL wrote:
As a couple of you have mentioned that 265/75/16 BFG's are no good for the real world driving and only for fast cars, i would have to disagree with you there and your saying that the 235/85/16 will do the job as good or better than the 265/75/16 ?

Please enlighten me on these comments Whistle


Sadly my normal go to web links with people that are better at explaining things than me seem to no longer exist. The link I'd love to share is this: http://www.expeditionswest.com/research/wh..._rev1.html

Tall, narrow tyres have a lower rolling resistance. That's why bicyles with taller tyres are easier to pedal. In off road driving in soft conditions, a wider tyre needs to move more goop out of the way to make progress. This is the first factor.

Second factor is that traction corresponds with the length of the contact patch. For a given pressure the narrow tyre will have a longer contact patch. Letting air out of a tyre does little to the width (unless you're going round corners which we'll come to later) but primarily makes the patch longer which is one reason why letting air out of a tyre inproves traction (and that's something that's done by drag racers on hard concrete too). The other reason you want to run at reduced pressures is so that the tyre can flex around the terrain, a tyre that's wrapped around a rock will grip it much better than one that's perched on top of a rock. That conformability is something that's completely irrelevant to drag racing Smile

If you are just running at standard pressures on the road then the skinny tyre still has benefits. The maximum force through friction that a tyre can support is calculated with the formula F=μR, with F being the friction force, μ being the coefficient of friction (defined by the stickiness of the rubber and deteriorating with age which is another reason to change your tyres regularly) and R being the force pushing the tyre in to the ground - i.e. the tyre pressure. Skinny tyres run at higher pressures than wider tyres so up until the limits of the rubber disintegrating they will stick better.

Finally, a skinny tyre is lighter so less rotating mass which is easier to start and stop, less unspring weight so the suspension can do a better job, less load put on all the vehicle components. This is also a good reason to use alloy wheels which should be lighter than the steel equivalent.

The advantages are more surface friction, lower rolling resistance and a longer contact patch for a given ground pressure. And because the tyre is narrower you get a better turning circle and less mud up the sides of your car which for most people are good things.

For an off road vehicle you want a lot of sidewall because it means you can lower the tyre pressures more, it protects the wheel and provides more comfort (the tyre is springier).

Now, there are disadvantages to skinny, high profile tyres.

In the same way that the long front to back contact patch gives you front to back traction, a wide contact patch gives you side to side traction. For the same pressure you can't have both long and wide. When you go round a corner, the side wall flexes and picks the inside edge of the tyre up. Effectively, this reduces your tyre width. To limit the effect you need a wide tyre with a short sidewall running at a high pressure.

Where you are seriously at risk of sinking without trace you need a lower ground pressure. You can usually go lower with a wider tyre before you can problems with running out of sidewall or loosing a bead. This is why you see arctic vehicles with balloon tyres and beadlock wheels.

Look at military and commercial off road vehicles (e.g tractors), they are almost all running things with a long and narrow contact patch. The exceptions are things that need flotation without much in the way of traction like crop sprayers which usually have wide tyres unless working between rows. Tesla, interestingly, give their vehicles equiped with 19" wheels a longer range than the ones with 21" wheels.

There are reasons to run wide tyres but none that are relevant to what I use my Defender for and what a Defender is really good at.
Post #704141 30th Apr 2018 11:48am
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r21



Member Since: 25 Apr 2014
Location: Merseyside
Posts: 77

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black
thanks for the very detailed response, the thinner tyre definitely would appear to be the better choice (turning circle wise) however when I spoke to Bowler they were pretty clear that they don't recommend 235s on their wheels, I wasn't buying them directly from Bowler so it wasn't a commercial decision to suggest more expensive 265s

So I bit the bullet and ordered 265s based on Bowler's advice, the 7mm extra clearance and maybe whatever I can tweak from the steering lock will hopefully improve it enough.
Post #704152 30th Apr 2018 12:25pm
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Cupboard



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
It might just be that the wheel is too wide for a 235.

Enjoy your new boots Smile
Post #704357 30th Apr 2018 7:56pm
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L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10742

England 
shropshiredefender wrote:
What I said was "Just had a new set of 235/85/16 BFG AT fitted as the wider 265/75's have no obvious benefit in real world driving" ie there is no difference other than looks - and that's a matter of personal choice.


No worries Thumbs Up 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.

Keeper.

Clayton.
Post #704438 30th Apr 2018 9:43pm
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L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10742

England 
Many many thanks for the great information Cupboard Bow down

I read the info, will have to read it again to get my head round it Wink so the way i see it ( i'm most probably wrong ) that 265's are good for going around corners and letting the pressure down for off road use ? what you use on your landy, suits your choice, i get that Thumbs Up but do you think that the 235's would be as good or better than the 265's that i have got on and what i use my landy for ? once again, many thanks Very Happy 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.

Keeper.

Clayton.
Post #704443 30th Apr 2018 9:57pm
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Arierep



Member Since: 12 Apr 2013
Location: Portugal
Posts: 258

Portugal 1995 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Alpine White
Just my 2c.

Iv'e gone progressively bigger in wheel offset over the years. +33, +8, -9 and now -25mm.
The Land Rover community is culturally very adverse to big wheel offsets, which is not always justified.

At each increase in track width I found a decrease in steering self centering and increase in road camber following, but an increase in stability, safety, traction and body protection in narrow offroad tracks, with no discernible increase in bearing problems.
This includes a 11.000km Africa expedition with a loaded roof rack, tough (ish) offroad and some rally style driving.

I've settled at -25 and wouldn't use anything different now. I've since installed torsen diffs front and rear which corrected the self steering issue. If you go offroad or carry a load in your roof you should consider a large wheel offset.


Regarding improving the turning circle, don't forget you get this at the cost of a less favorable CV angle. Again, this is mostly a consideration if you go offroad.
In my case, I've adjusted the steering stops to not use full steering lock potential in order to protect the CVs.
Post #704456 30th Apr 2018 11:19pm
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plumpmoose



Member Since: 14 Dec 2015
Location: North Devon & Oxon
Posts: 114

United Kingdom 
Cupboard wrote:
L110CDL wrote:
As a couple of you have mentioned that 265/75/16 BFG's are no good for the real world driving and only for fast cars, i would have to disagree with you there and your saying that the 235/85/16 will do the job as good or better than the 265/75/16 ?

Please enlighten me on these comments Whistle


Sadly my normal go to web links with people that are better at explaining things than me seem to no longer exist. The link I'd love to share is this: http://www.expeditionswest.com/research/wh..._rev1.html

Tall, narrow tyres have a lower rolling resistance. That's why bicyles with taller tyres are easier to pedal. In off road driving in soft conditions, a wider tyre needs to move more goop out of the way to make progress. This is the first factor.

Second factor is that traction corresponds with the length of the contact patch. For a given pressure the narrow tyre will have a longer contact patch. Letting air out of a tyre does little to the width (unless you're going round corners which we'll come to later) but primarily makes the patch longer which is one reason why letting air out of a tyre inproves traction (and that's something that's done by drag racers on hard concrete too). The other reason you want to run at reduced pressures is so that the tyre can flex around the terrain, a tyre that's wrapped around a rock will grip it much better than one that's perched on top of a rock. That conformability is something that's completely irrelevant to drag racing Smile

If you are just running at standard pressures on the road then the skinny tyre still has benefits. The maximum force through friction that a tyre can support is calculated with the formula F=μR, with F being the friction force, μ being the coefficient of friction (defined by the stickiness of the rubber and deteriorating with age which is another reason to change your tyres regularly) and R being the force pushing the tyre in to the ground - i.e. the tyre pressure. Skinny tyres run at higher pressures than wider tyres so up until the limits of the rubber disintegrating they will stick better.

Finally, a skinny tyre is lighter so less rotating mass which is easier to start and stop, less unspring weight so the suspension can do a better job, less load put on all the vehicle components. This is also a good reason to use alloy wheels which should be lighter than the steel equivalent.

The advantages are more surface friction, lower rolling resistance and a longer contact patch for a given ground pressure. And because the tyre is narrower you get a better turning circle and less mud up the sides of your car which for most people are good things.

For an off road vehicle you want a lot of sidewall because it means you can lower the tyre pressures more, it protects the wheel and provides more comfort (the tyre is springier).

Now, there are disadvantages to skinny, high profile tyres.

In the same way that the long front to back contact patch gives you front to back traction, a wide contact patch gives you side to side traction. For the same pressure you can't have both long and wide. When you go round a corner, the side wall flexes and picks the inside edge of the tyre up. Effectively, this reduces your tyre width. To limit the effect you need a wide tyre with a short sidewall running at a high pressure.

Where you are seriously at risk of sinking without trace you need a lower ground pressure. You can usually go lower with a wider tyre before you can problems with running out of sidewall or loosing a bead. This is why you see arctic vehicles with balloon tyres and beadlock wheels.

Look at military and commercial off road vehicles (e.g tractors), they are almost all running things with a long and narrow contact patch. The exceptions are things that need flotation without much in the way of traction like crop sprayers which usually have wide tyres unless working between rows. Tesla, interestingly, give their vehicles equiped with 19" wheels a longer range than the ones with 21" wheels.

There are reasons to run wide tyres but none that are relevant to what I use my Defender for and what a Defender is really good at.


Can this be made a sticky? Common sense for most LRD owners.
Post #704983 3rd May 2018 11:19am
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