 | Home > Td5 > TD5 cutting power at high revs |
 
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1628   
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Tried a standard air filter?
Sounds like you might need a DMF? |
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25th Apr 2018 7:53pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1628
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Buy a genuine spigot and get it soaking in oil now, best way to avoid the squeeks
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25th Apr 2018 8:16pm |
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| Maxxed_Ross Member Since: 06 Jun 2012 Location: Bathgate / North Sea Posts: 340  
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Well to add to the dilemma it died totally today
Wife took it to work without any issues. Started up to come home and it died. When tried again all the lights came on as normal, the ones that normally go off went off and she tried to start it... nothing. No clicks, coughs or attempt to crank. Then the ecu light started flashing 
It's abandoned at her work awaiting a specialist going to look at it tomorrow morning |
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2nd May 2018 9:57pm |
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| Maxxed_Ross Member Since: 06 Jun 2012 Location: Bathgate / North Sea Posts: 340
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Well Green Flag were out to it today
Checked all the relays, all fine. No blown fuses and battery had loads of power. Took the crank sensor cable off and re-seated, no change. Apparently sounded a bit "strange" when cranking Eventually held the throttle to the floor and cranked. Massive cloud of soot and then lots of white smoke So my thinking is either the bleed black valve in the filter housing, injector washers (replaced about a year ago - so less likely) or some other strange issue Any ideas or suggestions? |
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3rd May 2018 7:33pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1628
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Think it’s time to take it to a reputable independent
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3rd May 2018 10:35pm |
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| Maxxed_Ross Member Since: 06 Jun 2012 Location: Bathgate / North Sea Posts: 340
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it's been in several times to a very knowledgeable indy
Everything that could be causing these issues has been changed and it's still no better. As I said already if the DMF doesn't fix it then who knows... that's the last thing left that it could possibly be Think I've just bought a bad one |
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3rd May 2018 11:32pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1628
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Did you get the ECU number?
I would junk the unknown fuel map as a start I notice in one of your other threads you say you’ve a tuning box fitted? Did they measure the fuel pressure with an external gauge? You’ve fitted an aftermarket fuel pump I’ve not had much success with them and only fit them if supplied by the customer with no warranty. Where you still having the hard start problem you’ve mentioned before on here? Do you get big clouds out of the exhaust when it eventually starts? What do you mean died? Stopped altogether and won’t restart? Won’t crank? Cranks but doesn’t start? Why do they keep changing parts? Why are they not testing anything?  |
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4th May 2018 4:27pm |
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| Maxxed_Ross Member Since: 06 Jun 2012 Location: Bathgate / North Sea Posts: 340
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No, I'm currently working away and it's bolted under the bucket seats. It's an MSB though
As I've already said it ran fine for nearly a year then progressively got worse, so I'm confident it's not that. If the map was a problem it wouldn't get worse in the way that it has. The only way I can see to fix this is to get an Alive map done - but I'm not forking out that sort of cash just to find it doesn't fix anything.
My previous Tomb Raider 110 came to me fitted with a Puma box, it was junk so went in the bin. This one is running a remapped ECU
Not measured the fuel pressure as far as I know. Both the fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump were replaced recently with genuine items. The regulator about 6 months before the issue started (because it was leaking) and the fuel pump after (it was getting noisy)
Yes, the injector washers were changed about a year ago by Gemm 4x4 because it was starting to get really difficult to start and was really smokey when it did eventually go. Started fine since and hasn't been a problem until the recovery guy couldn't get it to start a couple of days ago.
Engine started fine but stopped shortly after. When a restart was tried it would just crank without starting. Attempted 3 times allowing the glow plug light to go out each time. Finally tried the 5 throttle pump fuel prime but it didn't make a difference. Recovery guy did this an additional 2 times before trying the "foot to the floor" crank that eventually got it going in huge clouds of black and then white smoke Drove home and has been on the driveway ever since
Parts that were likely to be causing the issue were changed first, then moved on to things that might be causing the issue. After a test drive proved that particular part didn't work it was swapped back to the original. The MAF and injector balance have both been checked through the diagnostics port and found to be fine. A MAF off another TD5 was tried to double check and made no difference. Turbo has been inspected for play and is fine. Waste gate has been checked and is fine. Actuator has been swapped, tested and double tested with an air line which proved nothing other than it works as it should and there's no leaks in the hose to it. Everything that it might be has either been checked, replaced or tested so far without success... other than the DMF because of the costs involved. That has been left until last but is being done within the next few weeks once all the bits for the clutch arrive. 2013 Discovery 4 HSE Lux | 2001 Defender 90 TD5 | 2007 Prodrive RB320 |
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4th May 2018 11:57pm |
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| Naf Member Since: 07 Dec 2016 Location: Sandbox Posts: 412  
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I know you are reading boost, but check your intercooler and hoses.
Also check for oil in the injector loom. As well as ecu red plug. If you have oil change the injector loom and clean the ecu plns. |
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5th May 2018 9:00am |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1628
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If it’s an MSB ECU it will have had the chip replaced then I would guess.
Do you get surging underload or up a steep hill? Is it harder to start after sitting for longer periods? Crank and crank then a plume of smoke? Have you tried MMP Land Rover? That guy seems to be very clued in with electronic faults and Diagnostics. |
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5th May 2018 5:24pm |
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| Maxxed_Ross Member Since: 06 Jun 2012 Location: Bathgate / North Sea Posts: 340
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As in the first post all changed already. Intercooler is an older alloy one, but when I had it out to change a leaky radiator it was fine. Boost hoses are all nice blue silicone ones now - first thing I changed actually
This is a bit of a strange one. If I keep the revs below the initial "cut" point then it will do hills without any problems. I tested this on a local hill on the motorway after I struggled to get up it at 50mph following a boost cut. Kept the revs below that point and went up the same hill at 65mph
However - I was towing recently and it did the high rev boost cut thing much earlier than I expected on a hill... so it seems that the extra weight (two heavy old motorbikes on a fairly chunky trailer) made a bit of difference to the cut point.
That was the problem I was having before the washers were replaced last year. Since then it has started extremely quickly with no more smoke than I would expect. It has only refused to start totally once before - but that was due to the crank sensor having a huge chunk missing. It now has a genuine crank sensor with spacer. The incident a few days ago has been the only time since then that it has totally refused to start. I checked the crank sensor to be sure it wasn't that again and it was fine.
Not heard of him before so will have a look into him, thanks!  2013 Discovery 4 HSE Lux | 2001 Defender 90 TD5 | 2007 Prodrive RB320 |
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5th May 2018 6:19pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1628
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I’ve seen this before with small head gasket failure and underload is the only time it causes problems or over heats. The car also when sitting for periods - water leaks down into the cylinders and gives hard starting. I was going to ask have you had any coolant system problems next, but you’ve had the Td5 radiator leaks that these all seem to be suffering now at around the 15 year old mark. Also wiring to the ECU/starter current draw but you’d need a good auto Electrican for that.
The only way to really test the crank sensor is on a Picoscope or a Snap on Vantage/scope to look at the wave form. You can’t really catch it otherwise or get a min max scale which doesn’t tell you much, it’s just not quick enough. Unfortunately my experience owning an independent is for some reason there’s a lot of places will google td5’s or have a code reset and hope for the best attitude. Then throw part after part after it in a hope it fixes it with no testing of components and it makes the original fault harder to find and more expensive to fix because of the variables changing. It’s not just Land Rover though seems to be all makes and models. |
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5th May 2018 6:33pm |
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| Maxxed_Ross Member Since: 06 Jun 2012 Location: Bathgate / North Sea Posts: 340
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After the white smoke the dreaded head gasket issue did cross my mind
It does use a bit of coolant, but I've never seen any white smoke before and no sign of it in the oil - or oil in the coolant... yet Temperature has always been totally normal - even before or during the power issues. The main reason for all the parts changing has been due to the fault itself. None of the obvious stuff fixed it, so it became a case of "this might be the problem" or "lets try this and see what change it makes" - with most of the time the changes make absolutely no difference to the problem 2013 Discovery 4 HSE Lux | 2001 Defender 90 TD5 | 2007 Prodrive RB320 |
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5th May 2018 8:36pm |
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| Maxxed_Ross Member Since: 06 Jun 2012 Location: Bathgate / North Sea Posts: 340
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well look what I found when giving the air box a good deep clean
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge That explains why it was getting worse 2013 Discovery 4 HSE Lux | 2001 Defender 90 TD5 | 2007 Prodrive RB320 |
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22nd Jul 2018 2:14pm |
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