 | Home > Td5 > TD5 cutting power at high revs |
 
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| bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2158  
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Unplug the MAF and go for a drive.
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25th Apr 2018 5:32am |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039  
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How high does your turbo pressure go before it cuts out? Roel
1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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25th Apr 2018 7:36am |
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| Maxxed_Ross Member Since: 06 Jun 2012 Location: Bathgate / North Sea Posts: 340  
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Unplugged the MAF and it's still the same
Boost pressure looks to be normal I think, them drops totally |
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25th Apr 2018 3:03pm |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
fuel presser
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25th Apr 2018 3:25pm |
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| gazman Member Since: 17 Aug 2015 Location: Liverpool Posts: 652  
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It does sound like a over boost issue, but mine did similar when the fpr died. I mad3 a gauge up to fit where the temp sensor is on the fpr. I think it's m12.
I ended up renewing loads of the fuel system. I also did a flywheel change which made it a bit better as it was on its way out too 2014 - current ..... 2003 defender td5 90 (my car) 2009 - current .... 2005 zx10r |
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25th Apr 2018 4:00pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1624  
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I’d be ditching the remap and starting from there. Or getting someone with proper Diagnostics experience before throwing more good money after bad. There’s some terrible remaps out there installed by people that don’t have a clue. It sounds like a fueling glitch with the surge and black smoke. If anyone can diagnose a driveability problem without seeing it or driving it ask them where they got their crystal ball from and can I have the details?
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25th Apr 2018 4:11pm |
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| Laurie Member Since: 22 Feb 2008 Location: Sussex, England Posts: 2897  
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Check the temp gauge when it drops power.
Could be momentarily overheating and switching to limp mode. The temp gauge goes from normal to max with nothing inbetween so it's easy to spot.  |
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25th Apr 2018 4:25pm |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039
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I still think boost pressure I believe that 1,3 bar is when the ecu says it is enough and goes in limp mode. Mine peaks at 1,28 bar and no problems. So an exact number would be nice.
This might be a result off the remap but you mentione it does the same with a standard ECU so that should rule the remap out. Is your red ecu plug oil free? You mentione a little oil. What is a little and does it make a diffrence if you clean the plug? I would say also check in the ecu but you also tested another ecu so that should be ok. Roel 1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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25th Apr 2018 4:25pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1624
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Throwing more parts at it is just increasing the variables.
What ECU are you running? When you put a standard ECU in what number is it? What files are on it? Did you remove the boost box when you did? |
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25th Apr 2018 4:33pm |
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| gazman Member Since: 17 Aug 2015 Location: Liverpool Posts: 652
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My main relay was on its way out and caused that too. But the water gauge would jump quickly before settl8jg down again 2014 - current ..... 2003 defender td5 90 (my car) 2009 - current .... 2005 zx10r |
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25th Apr 2018 4:37pm |
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| Maxxed_Ross Member Since: 06 Jun 2012 Location: Bathgate / North Sea Posts: 340
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Thanks for all the replies everyone
It's had a new pressure regulator (was leaking anyway) not long after I bought it, new fuel filter and new genuine fuel pump (was getting a bit noisy) with no change - so I don't think it's fuel related
It drove fine when I first purchased so I don't think it is the map, but to rule it out I did fit a Disco ECU that a friend sent me to try. didn't solve the problem as in the top post. All the standard ECU did was make it much slower 
Nope the Temp Gauge stays just below half as normal 
It was around that figure - but I fitted the boost box to try and rule that out. It didn't make any difference at all. As it has been a gradual deterioration I suspect that something is failing somewhere. The red ECU plug has a tiny bit of residual oil from before the loom change. I clean it regularly hoping that it will eventually stop seeping down... and there's nothing inside the ECU itself. It's not a random miss-fire like I would expect from an oily plug either
Most of the sensors have been swapped from vehicles that are running fine and then swapped back if there's no change. Sorry should have made that clearer. Only the MAF (was faulty about 6 months ago) and crank sensor (had a chunk out of it because of no spacer) have actually been swapped out totally... but I did try others from working vehicles to rule them both out with no change at all. As for the ECU it's just the original one, so not too sure what you mean? When I fitted the Discovery ECU to test I just coded it to the vehicle using Nanocom and it started first time no bother. It will drive fine (granted much slower due to the lack of remap combined with my higher overall gearing) and the issue happens at exactly the same point in the revs. I didn't take the boost box off when trying the standard ECU |
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25th Apr 2018 6:57pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1624
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Am you get a video of the fault or a screen shot of the live data?
Does the ECU you have start with the part no MSB.... or NNN? Discovery and Defender ECUs are different and will work, but not be correct. What brand of crank sensor and MAF did you use some aftermarket are junk from the box. You say it worked better with the non mapped ECU but the boost seemed funny could that be your boost box causing that? Different ECUs and vehicles have different fuel map files. I mean this in the nicest possible way, but I think you should stop torturing yourself and take it to someone with a bit more experience with the diagnostic scanner 
The chunk out the the crank sensor is strange the spacer mod was for intermittent signal faults not taking out chunks. Have you tested the DMF? You say about a crankshaft sensor improving it they could scope the signal on the sensor. |
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25th Apr 2018 7:19pm |
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| Maxxed_Ross Member Since: 06 Jun 2012 Location: Bathgate / North Sea Posts: 340
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I can try
The ecu is bolted back under the bucket seats again, so I'll get that when I next have a chance to remove them
Both are genuine items
I wouldn't say it was better, more that the issue became self modulating instead of me having to release the throttle. Happens at exactly the same point in the rev range with both ECUs just with slightly different results. I'' try the standard ECU again without the boost box when the seats are next out
No offence taken, I borrowed the Nanocom to code the standard ECU and was talked through how to check the MAF and injector readings by someone who knows what they should be - both were fine. Apparently the MAF was reading a bit high but that was put down to the Terrafirma air filter letting more air in at idle
When I cleaned the swarf from the end is improved things briefly - but I've tried 3 other crank sensors (two genuine one aftermarket) and they all produced the same results instantly[/quote] |
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25th Apr 2018 7:30pm |
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| bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2158
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You need diagnostics.
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25th Apr 2018 7:48pm |
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