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Greeny

Member Since: 20 Mar 2018
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 272

Clutch biting point

Hi,

Recently changed my clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder on my 1999 TD5, and spent a long time bleeding the system to remove all the air (hopefully). However since the change, the biting point seems to be far lower than it was before, any ideas why, or how to adjust this?

Thanks. Instagram - @Land_Rover_Defender

27th Mar 2018 2:47pm

4RF RDS

Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 933

2000 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Epsom Green

Here ya go! Adjust the pedal properly. 👍

Click image to enlarge 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam)
2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX)
1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy)
1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood)
1967 MGB GT

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.
H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956)

27th Mar 2018 2:53pm

Greeny

Member Since: 20 Mar 2018
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 272

Thanks,

So the adjustment is gained by the push rod and lock nut on the push rod itself? Is low pressure in the pedal for around 6mm at the start normal then? Instagram - @Land_Rover_Defender

27th Mar 2018 2:57pm

4RF RDS

Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 933

Yes very fiddley but two short 13mm wrenches will do it. Or a pair of vice grip (mole grip) needle nose pliers on the shaft then undue the lock nut and move both nuts then re-lock it. Easier if you push the pedal in a bit and hold it there with a stick or something. As for the 6mm lightness... Could just be slack in the pedal, adjust it first then see what’s up. Good luck!👍🍻 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam)
2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX)
1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy)
1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood)
1967 MGB GT

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.
H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956)

27th Mar 2018 3:09pm

lightning

Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 2777

I spent an evening trying to get the biting point up on my TD5 after changing the slave cylinder. I tried everything including reverse bleeding etc.
But the biting point was still right on the floor.
The solution was to wedge the clutch pedal down overnight with a piece of wood. After that it was fine. I’ve used this solution more than once.

29th Mar 2018 10:39pm

Greeny

Member Since: 20 Mar 2018
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 272

How and why would wedging the clutch pedal over night change it?
Thanks. Instagram - @Land_Rover_Defender

6th Apr 2018 9:08am

LandymanStefan

Member Since: 30 Aug 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 881

Other wearing the clutch spring I can't think of how that would work either

6th Apr 2018 9:35am

Retroanaconda

Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2647

It's quite normal to have trouble bleeding the clutch circuit after changing one or both cylinders. On the three or four occasions I've undertaken this job I've never managed to get a full pedal through normal bleeding techniques, however I've always got it to the stage where it is usable albeit with a very low bite point. Then over the next 20-30 miles the system self-bleeds the remainder of the air out and the pedal returns to its normal operation. Wedging the clutch pedal down overnight effectively does the same as using it I believe, so has the same effect.

The pipework is larger than that used on brakes (1/4" rather than 3/16") and so can be challenging to bleed, however as above it means that the air can find its own way out fairly well.

6th Apr 2018 9:43am

Greeny

Member Since: 20 Mar 2018
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 272

With further bleeding and usage, the clutch seems to be fine now, Compared to other cars I think that the biting point is low generally and it does feel like it was before so I am fairly happy now with it. Instagram - @Land_Rover_Defender

6th Apr 2018 9:53am

Pilgrimmick

Member Since: 16 Nov 2015
Location: Highlands
Posts: 582

lightning wrote:
I spent an evening trying to get the biting point up on my TD5 after changing the slave cylinder. I tried everything including reverse bleeding etc.
But the biting point was still right on the floor.
The solution was to wedge the clutch pedal down overnight with a piece of wood. After that it was fine. I’ve used this solution more than once.

Works for brakes too! 80" 1948
Lightweight V8
Bowler Tomcat
130 Station wagon
90 300tdi
(Santana PS10 pick up)
Range Rover L322 (Ful fat)

6th Apr 2018 11:27am

lightning

Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 2777

Greeny wrote:
With further bleeding and usage, the clutch seems to be fine now, Compared to other cars I think that the biting point is low generally and it does feel like it was before so I am fairly happy now with it.

The pedal position can be adjusted if the bite point is low and everything else is OK

7th Apr 2018 2:51pm

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